Ask a Professional Detailer
What speed are you running?
How are you prepping the pad?
How much pressure are you applying?
Have you done the washer mod to your Rupes?
Also what MF towels are you using?
I have lots of M101....what do you have to trade?
105 should be able to remove them, just might take a LITTLE more time. 105 is an extremely capable compound. 101 has key improvements, but assuming those RIDS are removable, 105 should be able to get them out.
What speed are you running?
How are you prepping the pad?
How much pressure are you applying?
Have you done the washer mod to your Rupes?
Also what MF towels are you using?
I have lots of M101....what do you have to trade?
What speed are you running?
How are you prepping the pad?
How much pressure are you applying?
Have you done the washer mod to your Rupes?
Also what MF towels are you using?
I have lots of M101....what do you have to trade?
for trade or if you wanted to sell like 5 oz or enough to do a z06.
but I have all kinds of stuff, I will try to make a list
I am running on speed 4, how I prep it is basically prime it how mike phillips does then just use a few dots, my first pass I did no pressure, second pass I tried to apply pressure. I have not done the washer mod, would you recommend it? For towels I been using these
for trade or if you wanted to sell like 5 oz or enough to do a z06.
but I have all kinds of stuff, I will try to make a list
for trade or if you wanted to sell like 5 oz or enough to do a z06.
but I have all kinds of stuff, I will try to make a list
I am running on speed 4, how I prep it is basically prime it how mike phillips does then just use a few dots, my first pass I did no pressure, second pass I tried to apply pressure. I have not done the washer mod, would you recommend it? For towels I been using these
for trade or if you wanted to sell like 5 oz or enough to do a z06.
but I have all kinds of stuff, I will try to make a list
for trade or if you wanted to sell like 5 oz or enough to do a z06.
but I have all kinds of stuff, I will try to make a list
2. If using a PC speed five, if using a Rupes speed 4 or 3, the extra stroke makes a big difference, (yeah I said it, it needed to be said)
3. For the first "pass", is basically just to help distribute product over the area, its quick.
4. You want to use moderate pressure, i know that means different things to different people. It was a little easier to explain when using a PC but not so much with the Rupes, IMO anyway.
5. Prime the MF pad good, four-five quarter drops then evenly spread it out over the pad, then blow it out lightly with compressed air. What you want is the same amount of product on all the MF fingers on the pad but not loaded up. Priming it this way takes care of both.
6. Use D300 when using M105. M105 doesn't dust nearly as bad when using a MF pad but it still does. D300 extents the working time of M105 and decreases the amount of dust. Try using 75%/25% M105/D300 and maybe to go 50/50 if using the Rupes.
7. Make sure you blow the MF pad out between after each section and after every panel push the MF pad into a MF towel. This helps pull some of the compound that's worked its way into the pad, to the top where it can be removed via compressed air or a pad brush.
8. Probably the most important. Realize there are some scratches you just can't get out. You only have so much clear coat. Unless you have a PTG and can accurately monitor the thickness of your clear, LEAVE it. Because what you will end up doing is repainting that panel when you burn through the clear and you will.
I hope this helps some.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 180
Likes: 1
From: Jonesboro, Ar
I'm sure this has been covered but this thread is massive. I'm going to be painting my car next week we have been using the 3M three step after wet sand, but after seeing the things u can do to paint what would be your recommended process? The car is going from pewter to black.
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Verdad Gallardo Throw the 3M stuff out. There are much better products out there. 3M products cover and hide a lot of defects. It will look good until you wash the car three or four times.
Last week I had a friend of of a friend asked me about what products I use. He is a painter at the largest body shop in the city. He said he has used 3M products for years and hates it because of the reasons I previously mentioned.
Depending on what type of clear you are using, rather it be cheap stuff or high solids, how fine of grit you are going to use to wetsand, if you are going to leave some orange peel or make it gut slick will help decide what compounds to use.
Personally, I would look at the Meguiars line, M100, M101, M105 and M205. Those products are designed to be used for what you are wanting. They won't hide or cover defects.
Hope this helps some.
Last week I had a friend of of a friend asked me about what products I use. He is a painter at the largest body shop in the city. He said he has used 3M products for years and hates it because of the reasons I previously mentioned.
Depending on what type of clear you are using, rather it be cheap stuff or high solids, how fine of grit you are going to use to wetsand, if you are going to leave some orange peel or make it gut slick will help decide what compounds to use.
Personally, I would look at the Meguiars line, M100, M101, M105 and M205. Those products are designed to be used for what you are wanting. They won't hide or cover defects.
Hope this helps some.
105 should be able to remove them, just might take a LITTLE more time. 105 is an extremely capable compound. 101 has key improvements, but assuming those RIDS are removable, 105 should be able to get them out.
What speed are you running?
How are you prepping the pad?
How much pressure are you applying?
Have you done the washer mod to your Rupes?
Also what MF towels are you using?
I have lots of M101....what do you have to trade?
What speed are you running?
How are you prepping the pad?
How much pressure are you applying?
Have you done the washer mod to your Rupes?
Also what MF towels are you using?
I have lots of M101....what do you have to trade?
I'm sure this has been covered but this thread is massive. I'm going to be painting my car next week we have been using the 3M three step after wet sand, but after seeing the things u can do to paint what would be your recommended process? The car is going from pewter to black.
Throw the 3M stuff out. There are much better products out there. 3M products cover and hide a lot of defects. It will look good until you wash the car three or four times.
Last week I had a friend of of a friend asked me about what products I use. He is a painter at the largest body shop in the city. He said he has used 3M products for years and hates it because of the reasons I previously mentioned.
Depending on what type of clear you are using, rather it be cheap stuff or high solids, how fine of grit you are going to use to wetsand, if you are going to leave some orange peel or make it gut slick will help decide what compounds to use.
Personally, I would look at the Meguiars line, M100, M101, M105 and M205. Those products are designed to be used for what you are wanting. They won't hide or cover defects.
Hope this helps some.
Last week I had a friend of of a friend asked me about what products I use. He is a painter at the largest body shop in the city. He said he has used 3M products for years and hates it because of the reasons I previously mentioned.
Depending on what type of clear you are using, rather it be cheap stuff or high solids, how fine of grit you are going to use to wetsand, if you are going to leave some orange peel or make it gut slick will help decide what compounds to use.
Personally, I would look at the Meguiars line, M100, M101, M105 and M205. Those products are designed to be used for what you are wanting. They won't hide or cover defects.
Hope this helps some.
I have a PC 7274 and can't find a good pad kit or what pads to purchase to redo my entire car. Fairly new to detailing. any help with a pad kit that would be great would help a lot. thanks!
That is a really broad question and to get an answer in this thread you are doing to have to do some reading. I will say it's in the first 10 pages and has been covered and discussed many times after that.
Meguiars MF cutting and finishing discs
Buff and Shine MF pads and black foam
Florida isn't any harsher than the majority of the country. Pick a good sealant like Blackfire Wet Diamond, CarPro Reload, or Sonax Net Shield and just repeat every 3-4 months.
However, you'll get stronger protection and longer protection from a coating. Look into licensed installers for CQuartz Finest or Opti-Coat Pro. The CQ Finest installers are a little more researched by CarPro before being given permission to use their best product. Can't say the same for the other. But both are good products.
If you want to get a coating but don't want to spend as much, look into having CQuartz UK or Opti-Coat 2.0 installed professionally. I wouldn't recommend installing yourself unless you have extensive paint correction and coating experience.
However, you'll get stronger protection and longer protection from a coating. Look into licensed installers for CQuartz Finest or Opti-Coat Pro. The CQ Finest installers are a little more researched by CarPro before being given permission to use their best product. Can't say the same for the other. But both are good products.
If you want to get a coating but don't want to spend as much, look into having CQuartz UK or Opti-Coat 2.0 installed professionally. I wouldn't recommend installing yourself unless you have extensive paint correction and coating experience.
As for rust....that has nothing to do with your paint. Only exposed bare metal will rust.
Megs #16 is a fantastic wax and hard to get ahold of. That will give great protection and shine to your paint. Use only a little....TOUCH the applicator to the wax and then spread on the paint. Do not wipe the applicator into the wax to get a bunch of it....you'll use about 20x too much.
As for rust....that has nothing to do with your paint. Only exposed bare metal will rust.
As for rust....that has nothing to do with your paint. Only exposed bare metal will rust.
Looking at this one
I like to get my stuff off amazon cause free shipping on a lot of stuff where autogeek is like $50
Last edited by whytryz28; Aug 15, 2014 at 12:45 AM.
Cool, are chemical guys wash mitt good? Also I dont have a wax applicator pad, anything special to buy?
Looking at this one
Amazon.com: Chemical Guys MIC_493 - Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt: Automotive
I like to get my stuff off amazon cause free shipping on a lot of stuff where autogeek is like $50
Looking at this one
Amazon.com: Chemical Guys MIC_493 - Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt: Automotive
I like to get my stuff off amazon cause free shipping on a lot of stuff where autogeek is like $50
I wouldn't use that mitt on my car or anyone elses.
This is what I use:
http://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-...s-incredimitt/
I wouldn't use that mitt on my car or anyone elses.
This is what I use:
http://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-...s-incredimitt/
This is what I use:
http://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-...s-incredimitt/
What about wax applicator pads?
Thanks