Thanks!

I LOVE my makita. Its a workhorse and I've had it for 6 years and it hasn't let me down once! Still smooth as day one.

 

Here, pretty sure they are smat too, I think im going to pick up the 8oz's to try i think from AG

 

Welp, I finally got around to using my PC. All I have to say is WOW. So much better than doing all of that by hand.

I'm doing an intake swap next week and don't want to mess up my fenders. What is the best thing to protect the paint where I'll be leaning over?

 

If you think a PC is amazing you should try a Flex

 

Ive read through a great deal of this thread and other resources and would rather have experienced input for my basic question. What is the difference between a wax and a sealant and which do you prefer? I just got a Chem guys kit and it comes with JetSeal.

 

The biggest diff is sealants are protection based upon synthetic ingredients. And waxes are protection based upon naturally occurring ingredients. Sealants seem to be lasting longer than waxes and have come a long way, but things can vary on what you get. Here is a good read and click the next hyperlink in there and he breaks it down more.

 

how long do you recommend using a DA before moving to an orbital? i have been using a PC for 9 months now doing 2 full details per day. just wondering when i should make the move to an orbital to cut down on some time.

 

Anyone here ever removed the rear spoiler/wing from the WS6? How long/thorough of a process is it? I'd really like to get the wing off, and do a full correction on it. I'm assuming the inside plastics need to be removed, but beyond that, not sure what else is needed.

 

I already asked this question earlier in the thread but I can't find his response from searching. I think I recall gofast saying if you take off the plastics in the hatch it's held on by four or so bolts. I'm going this route when I do correction on mine.

 

Hmmm, I must have missed that as well. I'm going to try and take the spoiler off this weekend and complete my 4-step correction. Should look awesome! Thanks again bud.

 

THe post above you is correct. Carefully remove the plastics and I believe there are 4 10mm bolts. You may need to give the spoiler a firm tug to seperate it from the body if it's never been removed.

 

What do you need to look for in a wheel cleaner that is safe for painted calipers? Also, I used a cleaner one time and it took the shine off of my aftermarket brake rotor caps and they began to rust. Any input?

 

I first used CG diablo wheel cleaner a few weeks ago and really really like it. Plus the one bottle dilutes 4:1 and makes tons of product!

 

I've had great luck for a long time now using it at 5:1. I can spray all the wheels in the hot sun with my foam sprayer and it clings to it until I've had enough time to come back around and do them all.

 

I started working at dealership last week as a tech. The detail shop is in the same part as I work in.

They were "detailing" cars in the parking lot today. They were using the same towel to wipe all the cars down with and would put the towels on the pavement between cars. I about passed out.

 

You should be the detailer there!

 

I don't think they would go for my hourly rate. LOL.

 

It just goes to show that most people don't really know/understand paint correction and/or detailing. Clean is what most people want. A very small percent of people know and appreciate what people in this thread do. That's why I continued working as a tech and not get into detailing.

I have a bad habit of everything I work on I go over board. I would rather continue doing it on the side for the right person that wants/needs it.

 

No, he should be RUNNING that dept.

 

Good point