4l60e build questions
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: billings, MO
4l60e build questions Ok I have started building my 4l60e this is what happened the 3rd accumulator valve leaked and therefore my 3 4 clutch pack is fried. I will be replacing those clutches, seperator plate, servo, check ***** with torlon check *****, and the band and normal o-rings and of course that valve. My question is i do not have the tools to replace the teflon o-rings is there a way to tell if these are bad other than common visual. Is there a problem with using the old rings? 120k miles on the tranny. the other question is the forward clutches and the reverse clutches are borg warner and show minimum wear. Should i use the old clutches and steels or replace these with the TCI kit?
thank you any and all information will be appreciated
thank you any and all information will be appreciated
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
The 3-4 clutches are marginal at best and will quickly wear out if there is any leak, as you discovered. You will also loose the clutch if there is a leak past the teflon rings, so why chance it.
I would highly recommend having a local trans shop with the correct installation and resizer tools install new teflon rings for you. I watched it once and it barely took 3 minutes; it should be a minimal charge.
We just had this discussion on another thread starting at #31:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...rebuild-2.html
(You might find that entire thread interesting too.)
Concerning the forward and overrun clutches, if you already have them in the kit, why would you not want to replace them after 120,000 miles. Aren't you rebuilding the entire input drum?
BTW - By "3rd accumulator valve" I assume you mean the check-ball in the case in the servo area?
I would highly recommend having a local trans shop with the correct installation and resizer tools install new teflon rings for you. I watched it once and it barely took 3 minutes; it should be a minimal charge.
We just had this discussion on another thread starting at #31:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...rebuild-2.html
(You might find that entire thread interesting too.)
Concerning the forward and overrun clutches, if you already have them in the kit, why would you not want to replace them after 120,000 miles. Aren't you rebuilding the entire input drum?
BTW - By "3rd accumulator valve" I assume you mean the check-ball in the case in the servo area?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: billings, MO
The 3-4 clutches are marginal at best and will quickly wear out if there is any leak, as you discovered. You will also loose the clutch if there is a leak past the teflon rings, so why chance it.
I would highly recommend having a local trans shop with the correct installation and resizer tools install new teflon rings for you. I watched it once and it barely took 3 minutes; it should be a minimal charge.
We just had this discussion on another thread starting at #31:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...rebuild-2.html
(You might find that entire thread interesting too.)
Concerning the forward and overrun clutches, if you already have them in the kit, why would you not want to replace them after 120,000 miles. Aren't you rebuilding the entire input drum?
BTW - By "3rd accumulator valve" I assume you mean the check-ball in the case in the servo area?
I would highly recommend having a local trans shop with the correct installation and resizer tools install new teflon rings for you. I watched it once and it barely took 3 minutes; it should be a minimal charge.
We just had this discussion on another thread starting at #31:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...rebuild-2.html
(You might find that entire thread interesting too.)
Concerning the forward and overrun clutches, if you already have them in the kit, why would you not want to replace them after 120,000 miles. Aren't you rebuilding the entire input drum?
BTW - By "3rd accumulator valve" I assume you mean the check-ball in the case in the servo area?
I have a built 4l60e + PTC 4000 converter that I am going to be putting up soon... I'm moving to a 300 is the only reason I'm selling, getting a killer deal from a friend.
Motor is out of the car... I could have the trans out in the next day or so.
Full weight 36XRwhp Trans Am cut 1.50-1.52 short times barely spinning in 2200+DA with this converter, it works!
I never hot lapped it, had a trans temp gauge and it had never got hot. It has never slipped, made weird noises, anything... Roughly 10K miles.
Probuilt Prostreet trans rated at 600+. I plan on making 750+Rwhp so it isn't going to support my power.
Motor is out of the car... I could have the trans out in the next day or so.
Full weight 36XRwhp Trans Am cut 1.50-1.52 short times barely spinning in 2200+DA with this converter, it works!
I never hot lapped it, had a trans temp gauge and it had never got hot. It has never slipped, made weird noises, anything... Roughly 10K miles.
Probuilt Prostreet trans rated at 600+. I plan on making 750+Rwhp so it isn't going to support my power.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: billings, MO
The 3-4 clutches are marginal at best and will quickly wear out if there is any leak, as you discovered. You will also loose the clutch if there is a leak past the teflon rings, so why chance it.
I would highly recommend having a local trans shop with the correct installation and resizer tools install new teflon rings for you. I watched it once and it barely took 3 minutes; it should be a minimal charge.
We just had this discussion on another thread starting at #31:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...rebuild-2.html
(You might find that entire thread interesting too.)
Concerning the forward and overrun clutches, if you already have them in the kit, why would you not want to replace them after 120,000 miles. Aren't you rebuilding the entire input drum?
BTW - By "3rd accumulator valve" I assume you mean the check-ball in the case in the servo area?
I would highly recommend having a local trans shop with the correct installation and resizer tools install new teflon rings for you. I watched it once and it barely took 3 minutes; it should be a minimal charge.
We just had this discussion on another thread starting at #31:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...rebuild-2.html
(You might find that entire thread interesting too.)
Concerning the forward and overrun clutches, if you already have them in the kit, why would you not want to replace them after 120,000 miles. Aren't you rebuilding the entire input drum?
BTW - By "3rd accumulator valve" I assume you mean the check-ball in the case in the servo area?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Great to hear you got it all put together and it is working well.
Bet your learned a lot about transmissions.
I see you are in "Billings, MO", bet a lot of people think that is in Montana, but of course Montana is "MT" and I see there is a small town of Billings in Missouri.
Bet your learned a lot about transmissions.
I see you are in "Billings, MO", bet a lot of people think that is in Montana, but of course Montana is "MT" and I see there is a small town of Billings in Missouri.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: billings, MO
billings mo pop of 1k. I learned ALOT I never knew what a band was. now I have everybody asking to rebuild theirs. of course I only have 5 miles on it so the real test is the first 100
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: billings, MO
just an update 350miles and running strong. I actually gave it full throttle today and at 90mph shift, (i assume from 3-4) it actually slid the car sideways a good foot. the transmission has a very agressive engagement into D while sitting still, however the downshift at 45mph is not as strong as i would like it to be. I will be working on that after midterms are over. It feels like there are 5 gears due to the fact i can feel the tcc engagement. the only wierd thing is if i barely press the brake at 60mph while on the gas the car actually revs up 300-400 rpms i suppose due to the tcc disengagement.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Sounds good! And again congrats!
The 300 rev when you hit the brakes is probably a tune issue. It something called a Throttle follower which trying to smooth out throttle reductions, perhaps to improve EPA gas mileage by a bit. I hate it and tune it way down - when I take my foot off the gas, it want the car to slow down (like a manual), not go into coast mode.
The 300 rev when you hit the brakes is probably a tune issue. It something called a Throttle follower which trying to smooth out throttle reductions, perhaps to improve EPA gas mileage by a bit. I hate it and tune it way down - when I take my foot off the gas, it want the car to slow down (like a manual), not go into coast mode.