Can someone please help me has anybody used the 4L80e that Hughes makes for Borowski any info Appreciate it thank you

 

• New Bushings, Bearings, Seals, and Gaskets
• Teflon Sealing Rings
• New Pump Gears
• Resurfaced Pump Stator

Even stock rebuilds get this^^ Nothing special

• HP2514 Billet Input Shaft
• HP2226 Billet Forward Clutch Hub

Any build past 750 gets this^^Nothing special

• 3 Red Overrun Frictions
• 4 Red Fourth Frictions
• 5 Red Forward Frictions
• 5 Red Direct Frictions
• 4 Red Intermediate Frictions

​​​​​​​I can't believe people STILL market "red frictions"
There are so many better options on the market. Anywho...these are stock clutch counts. You don't NEED any more than stock...but that's what this is.

• Regular Steels (no Kolene)

​​​​​​​So...stock...whoop-de-doo

• Kevlar or High Energy Intermediate Band
• Kevlar or High Energy Rear Band

​​​​​​​A. Kevlar is unnecessary and I wouldn't want that in my trans anyway.
B.Stock is "high energy"
C. The intermediate band is only used in D2 shifter position and it's only used to provide engine braking. No big deal AT ALL
D. The rear band is only used for Reverse and D1 shifter position (or when on transbrake)...as long as the clearance is correct...you hardly ever have issues. There is alot of capacity, a good sized servo, and usually 280+ PSI line pressure. So...stock is fine

• New Overdrive Roller Clutch
• New 34-Element Intermediate Sprag
• New Low Roller Clutch

​​​​​​​Stock parts. I'm VERY surprised they are advertising this as a badass unit...but they're using a stock 4l80e drum and stock 34 element sprag. Nothing special.

• Recalibrated Valve Body Using 4L80E-HD2 TransGo Kit

^^^HOLY CRAP...THIS IS SAD^^^ I was going to make a nice little writeup about how ALL of the above parts are fine and will live no problem at 1000hp...as long as the clearances are correct, and the VALVE BODY GETS THE PROPER MODIFICATIONS!! Using the HD2 in a build at this level is sad...its embarassing for any company advertising it/building it/standing behind it. Absolutely ridiculous that they say things in their advertising writeup like "We've found even transmissions rated to 1,000HP are not built to withstand over 800 ft/lbs at 3,500RPM. Our solution was to work with Hughes Performance to develop a transmission capable of the task"...This transmission is a 500hp rated unit that they put a billet input and fwd hub in and then called it 1000hp unit. What a disgrace.

• All new GM internal electronics, wiring harness, and case connector
• New GM Speed Sensors
• New Filter
• New GM Raw Steel Pan

​​​​​​​^^More stock stuff that even your rusted out farm truck will get.

If you're asking for somebody's $0.02...I wouldn't buy this unit. It's absolutely disappointing. I doubt they rollerize anything. They clearly don't do the proper hydraulic modifications as you can tell by the use of the HD2. There's no transbrake.
To add insult to injury...their pictures show a very nice cast aluminum pan...but the build description says "raw steel pan"...jeez
The ONLY saving grace about this unit is that it's under $3k...so if you're trying to save some money vs a unit from another retailer that would have a 1000hp unit costing 1000 bucks more...then fine. But know that those other retailers will do the proper modifications to the hard parts and the valve body...they will rollerize internal components...they will setup proper clearances and use better clutches...etc etc

 

You must have looked up the wrong unit because it for sure is not under 3k it’s closer to 5k

 

He looked up the right Unit...


Seems like the shop building your car knows nothing. besides overcharging for subpar parts.

 

https://borowskirace.com/products/cu...nt=26425932361
This is where I pulled the info from

https://borowskirace.com/products/cu...nt=26505717449
Here is the more expensive 5k version...notice how the build list is exactly the same but they put a more expensive input shaft in it...
I can copy/paste my comments from above...then make some snide comment about having expensive shaft/hub and not change anything else

For 5k you should be looking to jakes performance. They are the cream of the crop for high performance 4l80e's

Plain and simple...read my first post then change the price to 5k and remove any mention of "saving grace" due to being less expensive

 

Than you can see it’s 4500 not 3k as you said.... it’s ok I can already see where this is going if it’s not jakes it’s trash

 

you asked for info...got info...then want to argue the info. I REALLY don't need a pissing match today. It's your money and your build. Spend it and build it however you please. But if you ask for opinions, you're going to get mine unedited. No sugar coating.

I can see that it is 5k not 3k...hence correcting myself even though t it has THE SAME build list...but with a different shaft/hub
So all of my comments from my first post...still valid

"if its not jakes its trash"...Not sure who said that? It surely wasn't me.

For the same 5k...you'll get ALOT better trans with a whole number of vendors. Jake's happens to be one of them.
Jakes
CPT
Coan
gearstar
extreme automatics
etc etc etc

Hughes isn't even on my radar of places to recommend. for a trans or a converter

If you'd like to argue...good for you. But I'm not interested. Point blank you're overpaying and Borowski/Huges is underdelivering.

 

Never ever stated that I bought it it was a question because I was thinking about buying one from them and for a converter I would only go to circle d... thank you for the info I will scratch that trans off my list

 

Didn’t look at both links but I got to admit after looking at both it’s sure seems like a whole lot more money for the same trans

 

seems like copping an attitude wasn't really needed lol

circle D makes nice converters.
Give PTC and FTI a fair shake at specing/pricing a converter also. Lots of guys lately have been having better success (as far as track times are concerned) with those options rather than Circle D. Circle D seems to do much more off the shelf stall options and not as much custom-spec as the other 2.

 

Being the weirdo I am I just called Hughes..... the guy there told me of several Differences on the build the only ones I remember is this sprag The drum the input shaft and something about blue clutch is not a red I really don’t know much that’s why am asking on here but I do know that if you can’t at least list your Billed properly I think I’ll pass

 

On my last car I use the transmission from proformabuilt and they had me use an fti converter....I pass

 

Hopefully the person you spoke with at Borowski has better customer service skills because the person I was speaking to certainly did not. I was asking them some questions on a build that I saw an article on and the guy on the other end of the phone was rude and seemed as if he didn't care about gaining any new business. The conversation was rushed. I don't give a **** how many calls come in a day, the rule of thumb is to answer the questions because you never know who is on the other line and what they are about to buy. I wonder what the owner would think if he knew some of his staff had such poor customer service skills. Sounds like a customer service 101 workshop would go a long way at that establishment. I have no doubts that they are good at what they do, it's just whenever I was speaking to needs some coaching.

 

My convo didn’t go well with Borowski..... the people at Hughes seemed really cool and tried to help me understand the differences..... all I retained is there’s red and blue clutches and blue is better and it has blue clutches

 

I was really relieved up until this point.

MaroonMonster had things under control.

But... Clutch material is what these people are trying to spoon feed you???

First, If the builder can not get the hydraulic circuits set up properly than clutch material is insignificant.
Second, If you have ever used Raybestos Gen II Blue Plate Special frictions... You would not be too incline to use them for a street driven vehicle.
Third, Stock and HE stock material works for the majority of the clutch packs... Do not be fooled by some friction upgrade unless it is for a problematic clutch pack.
Last, every builder has some preference for a clutch material in a problematic clutch pack... they are all different! So in reality it does not matter much... the hydraulics do!

 

Not sure on Eastbaycamaro's power level, but what are your thoughts on even attempting to use a 4L80E with $10k worth of parts on a heavy 3800 lb 4th gen that will see 1500 rwhp?
Something just tells me:

"no don't even bother... it won't hold, go with RMVB transbrake TH400 with that money instead and slap on some 3.25's and 28" tires."

 

Hey guys I am building a TT427 lookin for 1000 rwhp in a 1st gen camaro with roadstershop chassis if that makes any diff.... thank all of you for all the info

 

Is this a street car or all out race car? What block are you using? Dart Next SHP? LSX iron? I'm looking at building a TT 427 myself for street/strip. The main question I have at this point is piston type. After talking with Diamond, it sounds like 21544-RS is the way for me to go on a 10.5:1 compression setup.

 

I’m going to use the dark next block Dart crank all pro heads plasma man intake Oliver rods Je pistons
Short travel tiebar lifters shaft mount rockers goin to try drive it on street as much as possible

 

Sounds good. Have you decided on cam specs and turbo size? I'm throwing around the idea of 243/251 117+5 LSA and a pair of 6875's but I need to run this idea by the experts. You may want to double check with your builder/supplier on the dart crank vs a Callies magnum center counter weight. I think the part number for the 4" stroke, 4.125 bore with a 2.1 journal and 58x is APO-31W-MG. I'm leaning toward TFS 245's with powder metal valve guides and LS1 rockers with the BTR TK002 trunion upgrade and ST2126LSR - Johnson Link bar lifters. 3/8" push rods for piece of mind and a BTR .685" lift spring kit to tie it all together.