highgmc

I will be installing my moser 12 bolt friday or saturday and have a few questions.

How do I go about bleeding my rear brakes?

how do I remove/change the u joint? part # for new one?

what do I need to reinstall my sway bar? just 3" exhaust clamps?

thanks!

Dean98TA

Bleed your rear brakes just like you would the fronts: pump pedal and hold it down, have someone else at the brake open the bleed valve, when brake pedal hits the floor, hold it there until the bleed valve is closed. Repeat process until no more air escapes from bleed valve, only fluid. Repeat on other brake side.

The old u-joint needs to be pressed out (easiest way). I've heard others heating the u-joint with a torch to melt the glue, but I've never done it that way. Harbor Freight sells a combo tool that's used to remove u-joints and ball joints for $30.

Just go to Autozone for a cheap 3" u-bolt. It works just fine.

Tim 98z

iTrader: (1)

I just installed mine last week. Piece of cake.
#1 (breaks) i didnt even have to disconnect the break lines anywhere unless your running new lines no need to disconnect/bleed...
#2 With a press. Its like a big c-clamp with the back side of the clamp has a hole in it for the u joint to press through. Easiest way. Or pay a shop tp do it. If you have the 1350 Yolk you need Part #447 at NAPA...
#3 Yes 3" Exaust Clamps is all i needed it's an easy modification i was worried about it untill i tried it myself. All you have to do is flatten out the old casing off the swaybar bushings to make it wider so it fitts the new u-bolt. I just used a hammer. took about 10 seconds each. Also i used this time to put new swaybar endlinks on. You might want to do the same Got them From Auto Zone. Called a rebuild kit or something like that for the swaybar. Got anymore ?'s let me know! Tim 98z

highgmc

what would I do without the net! or without ls1tech! this site rocks! hey Tim, I REALLY like your idea of not even disconnecting the brakes! I will just go bet 3" exhaust clamps. thanks everyone!

<img border="0" alt="[Pontiac]" title="" src="graemlins/formula.gif" /> looks like I might take the u joint to a shop to have done. as far as which yoke I have I don't really know, I just got the standard one to use with my stock driveshaft, so isn't that the 1310? if it's the 1310 what u joint do I need? how can I tell which it is? 1310 or 1350?

Tim 98z

iTrader: (1)

I could be totally wrong here but with the 1310 you dont even need a u-joint change??

monSSter1191

Just installed mine a few weeks ago. The memories are still fresh in my head (whether that is good or bad.. I'm still trying to decide).

1) What Tim said, unless you're changing brake lines you do not have to bleed the brakes - just leave them in tact - I tied them to the shock.

2) I bought a "Spicer 447X" U-Joint at Napa and it didn't fit my driveshaft - but it did fit the rear. I ended up having to go to another store and find a Precision 447 combination u-joint that had a different sized end for my driveshaft (stock, 2000 year). This was a small nightmare. Be prepared.

Also, I heated my U-Joint to remove it, just bought a cheap torch at the hardware store and heated it for a while, after about 5 minutes of heating the nylon ring that holds the ends on comes out like a worm, it's kind of cool. Anyways, then it comes out with a little banging on it. Probably cheaper than having a shop do it.

3) DO NOT BUY 3" U-BOLTS! First of all, you'd need a 3" exhaust clamp because a U-Bolt does not come with a bracket that conforms to the bottom of the axle tube. Second, these will NOT give you proper clearance of your swaybar and TA cover (if you got one with the 12 bolt). As a result it will be very close and sometimes hit on a bumpy surface - Not good.

Spend the extra money whether you get powdercoated or bare and get the Spohn rear sway bar kit for the 12 bolt. This kit is top notch, I have it on mine and it's perfect. It includes everything you need to re-mount your sway bar and space it from the rear end. The kit includes new U-Bolt's with a spacer and corresponding longer end link bolts which are much needed.

Just buying cheap U-Bolts at a store will NOT cut it.

Here's a bigger picture and link to the kit...

<img src="http://www.spohn.net/productimages/901.jpg" alt="" /> Spohn Sway Bar Relocating Kit

highgmc

after reading spohn's site they make it sound like I need their clamps for the sway bar?

can I just use the 3" exhaust clamps for now? BUT WITH the Ta cover?

I didn't see a complete rear sway bar kit for a 12 bolt on spohn's site.

I really hoped to just do the install this weekend with exhaust clamps!

I bought a "Spicer 447X" U-Joint at Napa and it didn't fit my driveshaft - but it did fit the rear. I ended up having to go to another store and find a Precision 447 combination u-joint that had a different sized end for my driveshaft (stock, 2000 year). This was a small nightmare. Be prepared.

Is the "precision 447 an actual part #?

does the spicer 447X work for anyone?

Tim 98z

iTrader: (1)

I went to Napa and said i need a u joint part #447. (not 447x never heard of that) and it worked fine. And i drive mine around with just 3" exaust clamps wit no problems. It will be touching with the car in the air when you install it. But look at it when you lower the car it will then cear. CLOSE for shure but clears. You probly want to order the new proper mounting stuff for the swaybar but you will be fine for a couple weeks or MORE with the 3" exaust clamps till you get the itch to do it the right way.
BUYT i have the 1350 yolk. If you have the 1310 this # will not be correct.

highgmc

I found that I have the 1310, which u joint then?

if I use a propane torch to melt mine out, how do I install the new one?

how much $$$ is a u joint?

2000 Camaro SS

I can help on the sway bar part here is a pic <img src="http://www.spohn.net/thumbnails/901_small.jpg" alt="" /> Fasttoy can order them for you. http://www.fasttoys.net/9398fbodyframes.html

2000 Camaro SS

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by terry99ta:
<strong>after reading spohn's site they make it sound like I need their clamps for the sway bar?

can I just use the 3" exhaust clamps for now? BUT WITH the Ta cover?

I didn't see a complete rear sway bar kit for a 12 bolt on spohn's site.

I really hoped to just do the install this weekend with exhaust clamps!

I bought a "Spicer 447X" U-Joint at Napa and it didn't fit my driveshaft - but it did fit the rear. I ended up having to go to another store and find a Precision 447 combination u-joint that had a different sized end for my driveshaft (stock, 2000 year). This was a small nightmare. Be prepared.

Is the "precision 447 an actual part #?

does the spicer 447X work for anyone?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yes either you put up with the banging or buy a kit. Just tell them what you have ie 12 bolt or 9 inch they do the rest. I went the long route I bought a Wolf Race Craft Sway Bar <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> but the end is if you don't do something your TA cover will get teh snot beat out of it. Spohn parts "ROCK" <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />