Pulse Width Modulation Question
There is no partial apply on the converter clutch. Lock up is either on or off. PWM is used to get the effect of a partial apply. Your transimssion uses a solenoid to very quickly "pulse" the clutch on and off. With a stock torque converter's clutch, it isn't usually even noticed. This is because the clutch is made of a material that is allowed to slip. The aggressive non-slip clutch material used by Fuddle Racing, this pulsing occasionally is audible. By simply installing even some of the most basic shift kits, you can completely eliminate PWM.
in the TCC chain. An apply solemoid valve, and a
sub-regulator which is PWM'd (more duty cycle =
more pressure, opposite of the force motor). The
TCC line depends from the force motor main so you
have an issue at light loads, the force motor starves
the TCC even at full TCC%. And sometimes it goes
downhill from there.
I have the "Street Performance" converter and have
detected no such thing (audible tones or squeal).
If you tune the car and just set the minimum TCC PW
to 99% you will not have the "soft apply" going on.
PWM is a regulation scheme which is more "digital",
you modulate the delivery of voltage/current in time
and either on or off, which has the result of spending
all (almost) of your time in one of two highly efficient
states and little is lost in the power switches. Either
full voltage but no current across the switch, or no
voltage (closed switch) and full current. In either
state something times zero is zero losses. Big deal when
you are talking amps of current and 12V inside a poorly
cooled PCM case. The scheme depends on something
downstream to have an averaging effect - usually the
inductance of the load, or a filter choke. When you chop
voltage really fast the inductor will let the voltage swing
wherever, and just pass an average current (needing a
few other things like a freewheel diode etc.).
But it beats the hell out of dropping a large amount of
the load power inside a linear regulator; that's cook, cook,
cook.
PWM is the squeal you hear in your cordless drill at half
trigger.
At WOT you should be seeing full TCC duty and probably
hear nothing. Anything you do hear is clutch face squeal,
there. Where you would hear PWM tones is more likely at
part throttle TCC apply.
Typical PWM frequencies are 10kHz - few hundred kHz as
these fall in the realm of reasonable inductor sizes and
reasonable switching (frequency) losses. So unless you
have dog ears, you're unlikely to hear the chop frequency
(though there can be sub-harmonics in the iron etc.). If
the note is down in the hundreds of Hz, trumpet instead
of piccolo, this is not the PWM frequency but the clutch
making its own music due to weak apply and being allowed
to skate rather than grab.
I believe you're more likely to hear the clutch itself squeal
due to grab-and-skip, fluttering when the pressure is not
quite enough to hold, but enough to keep the faces in
contact. Every clutch material system is different in this
respect, stockers are chosen for longevity (in "normal"
envelope use) and noise while busting on it all season at
full power wants a different compromise, a hard grab,
and fingernails on the chalkboard may be your downside.
jimmyblue...could you go into a little more detail please? Just kidding...
Thanks for taking the time to explain the cause and effect so well. Wow, I feel like I spent the night at Holiday Inn Express now. I will probably look into a shift kit to get rid of the situation. Thanks again.
Or it can happen during re-lock going 50-60 mph after touching the brakes. Under these conditions it is a lot louder, more raspy and can continue for up to ten seconds, especially going uphill. This can occur in 3rd or 4th gear at 2000 RPM+.
I'm hesitant to do the shift kit fix because, heaven forbid, suppose there is something wrong with the tranny or the TC. Then the warranty is blown and I'm SOL.
Here are some links about the situation:
http://www.4l60-e.com/#Performance%20Parts
http://www.sonnax.com/bulletins/tech/TS-BW-699.pdf
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...07htp_projls1/
http://www.transmissionspecialty.com.../DM/4L60-E.htm
Last edited by surfgzr; Mar 9, 2006 at 03:39 PM. Reason: delete link
I'm hesitant to do the shift kit fix because, heaven forbid, suppose there is something wrong with the tranny or the TC. Then the warranty is blown and I'm SOL.
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