Questions Arrised During TransGo Install
Questions Arrised During TransGo Install I began installing the TransGo shift kit and replaced some solenoids today to alleviate a lock-up problem I have been having, 8 hrs later and still unfinished, I have a few concerns.
I have the HD2-C "Profesional Install Only" kit, a fuddle 3400 stall, a tune, and a 99 Z28, for reference.
The transmission fluid was changed (but not flushed) 9 months and 5000 miles ago and it came out nasty looking. In small streams it looked immaculate, still red and thin, but in the pan it looked black, there was obviously a substance flouting in it. The magnet in the pan was pretty clean, so what does this mean?
I installed 2 washers and attempted to drill the holes for the high stall/race setting because I believe my stall would be considered high. I don't really want the car to shift incredibly hard all the time at part throttle. Did I make the right choices?
One of the holes to be drilled in the seperator plate needed a .101 drill, that I do not have. How much of a difference will this make, should I go buy a special bit?
The kit came with a box full of springs that said it had something to do with the 3-4 clutch pack. To install this, do I need ot go into the tranny farther than the valve body? Where can I get another set of instructions for this aspect, because the box came with it's own? I thought I brought them back her to post about it, but I can't find them here.
My main concern is this. I had to stop because, when removing the screens in the seperator plate, the smaller of the two screens broke. What does this screen do? Where can I get a new one hopefully tomm because I can't have the car parked where it is for long?
I have the HD2-C "Profesional Install Only" kit, a fuddle 3400 stall, a tune, and a 99 Z28, for reference.
The transmission fluid was changed (but not flushed) 9 months and 5000 miles ago and it came out nasty looking. In small streams it looked immaculate, still red and thin, but in the pan it looked black, there was obviously a substance flouting in it. The magnet in the pan was pretty clean, so what does this mean?
I installed 2 washers and attempted to drill the holes for the high stall/race setting because I believe my stall would be considered high. I don't really want the car to shift incredibly hard all the time at part throttle. Did I make the right choices?
One of the holes to be drilled in the seperator plate needed a .101 drill, that I do not have. How much of a difference will this make, should I go buy a special bit?
The kit came with a box full of springs that said it had something to do with the 3-4 clutch pack. To install this, do I need ot go into the tranny farther than the valve body? Where can I get another set of instructions for this aspect, because the box came with it's own? I thought I brought them back her to post about it, but I can't find them here.
My main concern is this. I had to stop because, when removing the screens in the seperator plate, the smaller of the two screens broke. What does this screen do? Where can I get a new one hopefully tomm because I can't have the car parked where it is for long?
ok the screens filter particulate matter from entering the solinoid in particular the pcs and the pwm solinod , its not a catastrphe i have seen many 4l60es without thyem running fine , but if you can get them most shops should hae some lying here and there.
The springs for the 3-4 clutch set are and internal thing I dont tink I would tackel that unless your up to a rebuild ,
two washers will make for a pretty agressive shift but shouldnt be to bad with a 3500 stall so livable .
On the bit just find the closest tin you have as long as its pretty close and not larger and us it , its not that critical
The particulate matter is most likley clutch material , but I wouldnt be to concerned unless its gelled on bottom of pan and as long as the tranny was working well .
Hope this helps
The springs for the 3-4 clutch set are and internal thing I dont tink I would tackel that unless your up to a rebuild ,
two washers will make for a pretty agressive shift but shouldnt be to bad with a 3500 stall so livable .
On the bit just find the closest tin you have as long as its pretty close and not larger and us it , its not that critical
The particulate matter is most likley clutch material , but I wouldnt be to concerned unless its gelled on bottom of pan and as long as the tranny was working well .
Hope this helps
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My problem was that my fuddle converter clutch may have burnt away. Hopefully not, but that would have caused my symptoms as well. There was no gel, whatever was in the fluid was noticable but definetly in a completely suspended state. I don't know how thick Fuddle's clutches are, hopefully there still some there. The last time I had the tranny fluid changed was actually when I had the converter installed 5000 miles ago.
I already drilled it out to .093 like every other hole in the plate, what would be the difference between leaving it there and drilling it out? Would it be noticable?
I only installed one shim in the servo, because I had a brain fart when checkin to see if it would shift out of drive with 2 shims. What is the difference between 1 shim and 2 in the servo?
I don't know exactly what that pack was but it sure had a whole lotta springs.
I already drilled it out to .093 like every other hole in the plate, what would be the difference between leaving it there and drilling it out? Would it be noticable?
I only installed one shim in the servo, because I had a brain fart when checkin to see if it would shift out of drive with 2 shims. What is the difference between 1 shim and 2 in the servo?
I don't know exactly what that pack was but it sure had a whole lotta springs.
the springs in the pro kit are for the 3-4 clutch and as i said you would have to disassemble trans ,
Now that you have said something what probelm are you trying to fiix
Now that you have said something what probelm are you trying to fiix
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I was throwing a P1870 and a code for a shift soleniod. My converter was never locking up. I was told that this could be fixed by a transgo or i might need a new converter because of a faulty clutch. I actually talked to you about this, becuase I was considering buying a whole new transmission. Still may be is this doesn't work.
No interest in dissassembling the trans. WHat effect will the shims and a smaller hole have on the trans.
No interest in dissassembling the trans. WHat effect will the shims and a smaller hole have on the trans.
more shims make a harder shift to second , smaller holes make for a slightly softer shift
but minor if they are close
but minor if they are close
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and based on what you have told me you are probably at the very least gonna need a converter
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well either way My job is to help you ,
have a nice night
have a nice night
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Verdad Gallardo ok thanks.
Well, I'm going to try to finsih this up tomm. got 4 hrs between class. Hopefully (for me) it works, or I'll be having you install a built trans pretty soon.
Well, I'm going to try to finsih this up tomm. got 4 hrs between class. Hopefully (for me) it works, or I'll be having you install a built trans pretty soon.
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The shims in the 2nd gear servo are to reduce band clearance, use only one as two in the majority of cases will make the 2-4 band too tight, and will burn it up along with the 3-4 clutch pack. On the matter of the 2nd gear accumulator, I would not use any spacers if you want a smooth 1-2 part throttle shift. If you want a firmer 2-3 WOT shift, use a .110" - .125" 2-3 feed hole. As for the material in the pan, was there any on the bottom of the pan away from the magnet where you could write your name with your finger? If so then this is clutch or band material. Is the torque converter lockup still working ok? Are the shifts ok? The Trans-Go Shift kit will give you a new on/off valve to replace the pwm valve, which will stop any unecessary wear of the torque converter clutch. "Do not" grind on the manual valve as per instructions, as this is for 1993-1995 units only. The extra return springs are for input drum when the unit is disassemled, save them for future use. "Do not" add plugs to the reverse input piston when the transmission is disassembled, as they create problems when you go over 5,500rpm. If you have other questions on let me know?
Actually his converter is never locking up as he said in and earlier post .im figuring the material in fluild is the converter clutch since he says shifts are ok
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Thanks guys
I do not know what you mean here.
I didn't grind the reverse smply because I didn't have a grinder. There was nothing to write my name in on the bottem of the pan.
My converter locks-up occoasionally, though there doesn;t seem to be much of a change when it does. For a while it wasn;t locking at all but 3 days ago the SES lights went away, and it started locking up untill i drove it for a while again.
Originally Posted by PBA
"Do not" add plugs to the reverse input piston when the transmission is disassembled, as they create problems when you go over 5,500rpm.
I didn't grind the reverse smply because I didn't have a grinder. There was nothing to write my name in on the bottem of the pan.
My converter locks-up occoasionally, though there doesn;t seem to be much of a change when it does. For a while it wasn;t locking at all but 3 days ago the SES lights went away, and it started locking up untill i drove it for a while again.
