Installed my Yank today!!!
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From: Whidbey Island, Wa.
Installed my Yank today!!! I just got home from installing my Yank SS3600, And wow, The car is totally different.
I have a few questions for you guys with stalls.
After install, is it normal when you pull up to a stop light the RPMS take a couple seconds to go back to normal? It holds at about 1100 rpms, and then finally kicks down..
I know the Break in period is very strick on new stalls, but if I go on the highway, is it fine to kick it up over 3600 rpm? And see how it feels??
Well thanks.
Lane
I have a few questions for you guys with stalls.
After install, is it normal when you pull up to a stop light the RPMS take a couple seconds to go back to normal? It holds at about 1100 rpms, and then finally kicks down..
I know the Break in period is very strick on new stalls, but if I go on the highway, is it fine to kick it up over 3600 rpm? And see how it feels??
Well thanks.
Lane
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From: USA-WEST MONROE, LOUISIANA
Originally Posted by crazylane
I just got home from installing my Yank SS3600, And wow, The car is totally different.
I have a few questions for you guys with stalls.
After install, is it normal when you pull up to a stop light the RPMS take a couple seconds to go back to normal? It holds at about 1100 rpms, and then finally kicks down..
I know the Break in period is very strick on new stalls, but if I go on the highway, is it fine to kick it up over 3600 rpm? And see how it feels??
Well thanks.
Lane
I have a few questions for you guys with stalls.
After install, is it normal when you pull up to a stop light the RPMS take a couple seconds to go back to normal? It holds at about 1100 rpms, and then finally kicks down..
I know the Break in period is very strick on new stalls, but if I go on the highway, is it fine to kick it up over 3600 rpm? And see how it feels??
Well thanks.
Lane
Last edited by Kent1; Mar 3, 2007 at 09:33 PM.
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From: Whidbey Island, Wa.
Originally Posted by Kent1
It is my understanding your car should be tuned for the new convertor to help with the return of RPM' s to normal. I don't have any idea why you cannot kick up your new convertor over 3600 RPM's and have fun on the highway. I know I did and haven't you backed. I did have mined mail order tuned for the new convertor. Cheers and have fun.
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From: Whidbey Island, Wa.
This is strait from there web site......
BREAK IN PERIOD…
Yank converters have a special clutch lining material that requires a special break in procedure.
This procedure consists of:
Driving the converter at normal speeds with NO WOT starts or brake stalling the converter for approx, 150 miles.
Stall checking or Brake stalling will severely damage the clutch lining if converter is not broke in properly. This will void any warranty.
BREAK IN PERIOD…
Yank converters have a special clutch lining material that requires a special break in procedure.
This procedure consists of:
Driving the converter at normal speeds with NO WOT starts or brake stalling the converter for approx, 150 miles.
Stall checking or Brake stalling will severely damage the clutch lining if converter is not broke in properly. This will void any warranty.
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I have the same model. SS3600. I went out and beat the **** out of it the first day all day every day. You dont need a tune, well atleast I didnt.
Mine idled fine...right at about 850-900 like always. The stall doesnt really feel like it makes a difference on the highway, 1st gear is...
Have fun.
Mine idled fine...right at about 850-900 like always. The stall doesnt really feel like it makes a difference on the highway, 1st gear is...
Have fun.
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From: Whidbey Island, Wa.
Originally Posted by WE TODD DID
So what does the converter clutch have to do with stalling it up? The converter clutch is for lock-up purposes. BTW, I'm not at all impressed with their website.
Originally Posted by WE TODD DID
So what does the converter clutch have to do with stalling it up? The converter clutch is for lock-up purposes. BTW, I'm not at all impressed with their website.
Stalling it up effects the roller clutch and bearings that are new and have to be run in to allow for full contact surface, if this if not done you can pit or over heat the bearings and stator internal parts.
This also will allow for all the trapped air the be purged from the converter
the converter clutch has to be broken in same as your brakes would, as all high spots and compacting of the lining surface must be done to allow full contact area.
This will apply on Yank converters as other brands are built with USED parts and do not need this attention as they have been broken in from the converters previous life.