Converting non-PWM to PWM?
Converting non-PWM to PWM? I ran into a snag with my project truck. I rebuilt a 1993 4L60E K1500 transmission that I planned to bolt up to my 2000 5.3L V8 from a Sierra. I knew there was going to be a bell housing mis-match and that I'd need the crank spacer. What I didn't take into account was that the '93 tranny doesn't have a PWM style pump or valve body, and that the 2000 PCM for the drivetrain would need the PWM to shift and whatnot.
So, I have a spare 1996 PWM 4L60E. Could I swap parts from that 2wd transmission into the '93 4wd transmission I have to "convert" it to PWM? I'm not sure which parts I'd need, but I have the entire tranny at my disposal to tear parts from. I rebuilt the '93 tranny myself down to every last o-ring, and while taking apart the '96 PWM tranny I didn't see any internal difference between the years.
Can I, and what parts would I have to swap over, to make my '93 tranny be PWM controlled?
So, I have a spare 1996 PWM 4L60E. Could I swap parts from that 2wd transmission into the '93 4wd transmission I have to "convert" it to PWM? I'm not sure which parts I'd need, but I have the entire tranny at my disposal to tear parts from. I rebuilt the '93 tranny myself down to every last o-ring, and while taking apart the '96 PWM tranny I didn't see any internal difference between the years.
Can I, and what parts would I have to swap over, to make my '93 tranny be PWM controlled?
All you need to do is swap the wiring harness and the two solenoids at the front from the 96 to the 93 and lockup will function. There is a difference in the 3-2 down shift strategy however but the only significant affect I have seen from swapping that solenoid is a harsh 3-2 kickdown but was not overly aggressive
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Thank you for replying, my worries are eased a bit now. I noticed also the front of the pumps are different. On my '93, there is no marking that says "PWM". On my '96, it's clear as day that it says PWM. Would I have to swap the pump as well then? I can get pics of anything if it helps me iron out this problem.
I'm thinking swap the valve body, the wiring harness and all solenoids, plus the pump, from the '96 to the '93. What do you think? Remember that I can swap any and/or all parts from the '96 to the '93 if need be, so if you see this thread again please hold nothing back if I am able to swap parts to make the tranny operate as normal.
I'm thinking swap the valve body, the wiring harness and all solenoids, plus the pump, from the '96 to the '93. What do you think? Remember that I can swap any and/or all parts from the '96 to the '93 if need be, so if you see this thread again please hold nothing back if I am able to swap parts to make the tranny operate as normal.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: haltom city/DFW, Texas
It would be best to change the valve body and plate , the gaskets are the same from '93 up to 2000 . Use all the '96 pieces with some new gaskets , or better yet install a Trans-go shift kit and plate ion the '96 vb while you have it out !
Thank you for replying, my worries are eased a bit now. I noticed also the front of the pumps are different. On my '93, there is no marking that says "PWM". On my '96, it's clear as day that it says PWM. Would I have to swap the pump as well then? I can get pics of anything if it helps me iron out this problem.
I'm thinking swap the valve body, the wiring harness and all solenoids, plus the pump, from the '96 to the '93. What do you think? Remember that I can swap any and/or all parts from the '96 to the '93 if need be, so if you see this thread again please hold nothing back if I am able to swap parts to make the tranny operate as normal.
I'm thinking swap the valve body, the wiring harness and all solenoids, plus the pump, from the '96 to the '93. What do you think? Remember that I can swap any and/or all parts from the '96 to the '93 if need be, so if you see this thread again please hold nothing back if I am able to swap parts to make the tranny operate as normal.
No do not swap the pump unless you plan to swap the valve body plate and valve body, Unless you worried about the small anomaly that might be but may not even be noticeable from my experience due to the difference in the 3-2 shift valve. I would just swap the harness and the two solenoids mentioned you do not need PWM you do need a solenoid there to fool the PCM in fact we eliminate PWM from all our units and in the case of our units the PWM solenoid always just acts as a dummy for the PCM it does nothing
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I've never tuned a vehicle, so I apologize ahead of time for not understanding. I am having my truck tuned once the engine and transmission swap is complete, so will my tuner have any issues I should let him know about ahead of time? Basically his specialty is 99 and newer full size GM trucks, so I am trying to make every bit of his job easier so that in the end my truck is every bit as tunable as a newer truck.
All I know is that he uses HPTuner software, and is very good at it. Thanks again for your help. So far you are the only person who has given me hope on this project. This morning I was moments away from purchasing a 2004 4L60E from a 5.3L Suburban just to be done with this hassle, but it's looking brighter every time I read your posts.
All I know is that he uses HPTuner software, and is very good at it. Thanks again for your help. So far you are the only person who has given me hope on this project. This morning I was moments away from purchasing a 2004 4L60E from a 5.3L Suburban just to be done with this hassle, but it's looking brighter every time I read your posts.
Last edited by InchUp; Jul 19, 2008 at 01:39 AM.
No make those changes and he should have no issues at all with tuning
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Verdad Gallardo The two at the bottom of the picture and the wiring harness
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Performabuilt you have been a great help this far so I return for one final question. Which torque converter to use? Since I'm using a 93 tranny, do I order a torque converter with that year in mind, or do I order a year 2000 torque converter to mate up to my motor?
I only ask because I came across this quote. I was just going to call up TCI and get their Maximizer 300mm converter but now I have doubts on my decision.
Again, thank you for the assistance, and no I don't have the Trans GO shift kit.
I only ask because I came across this quote. I was just going to call up TCI and get their Maximizer 300mm converter but now I have doubts on my decision.
All 4L60E's use 30 spline input shafts, be it LT1 or LS1. The LS1 shaft it self is different in length (longer) and where the O-ring for torque converter lockup goes. If you are going to use the earlier design torque converter, & do not have the Trans-Go Shift kit installed, then use the 1995 & later torque converter which has the late design lockup clutch to work with the PWM. When using the Trans-Go Shift kit, it eliminates the PWM and you can use the earlier design torque converter.
Again, thank you for the assistance, and no I don't have the Trans GO shift kit.
If your using a 93 trans with and LSX engine you will need to use the 93-97 converter for the LT-1 style with a crank piliot adapter spacer same set up you would been for a 350 conversion
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I have the crankshaft spacer, GM part number 12563532, and matching ARP flywheel bolts. If that's the case then do you have a recommendation for a converter in my year? TCI? B&M? Performabuilt? It's a converter going into a daily driver/weekend rock crawling trail rig with the specs in my signature.
I would get one of our 12 inch converters in the 2000 2500 range for that, There on our website under converters and reasonably priced and the prices include shipping
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I see Performabuilt's site has "The Plow" and "The Daily". In a truck such as mine, seeing weekly rock crawling and trail riding and then drive 200 miles home on the highway, which one do you think would be best for such a truck? I do tow and haul quite often. To be honest, I use my truck as a truck. It's my sole means of transportation to and from school and was built with a no-compromise off-road purpose in mind. I like the idea of "the Daily" but is there any bennefit to running "the plow"?
the plow provide min heat and greatest efficiency at low speeds pulling or towing, But as with all low stall converters torq multiplication is quite low and you may not get the from stand still launch you might be looking for . the DAILY is likely your best all around choice
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I'm sure I am a minority when looking at all your LS1tech customers, being one with a lifted truck. I've driven many stock and slightly modified (lifted) 1/2 ton Sierras and Silverados. One could then assume that the "the DAILY" converter would feel a lot like those stock trucks? All I'm really after is a stock converter that can take the abuse and get good gas mileage on the highway.
It would feel a little looser actually and any stall converter will give you the same fuel efficency on the highway due to lockup
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So being a little "looser" will help get the truck moving from a stop light, or crawl up an obstacle because it improves acceleration at the cost of top end speed? That's fine by me if that's the case since the truck is not a race car. I guess I'm not 100% familiar with what "loose" and "tight" terms are referring to exactly.