Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

I wanna drop a LS3 into my 05 V and your gonna tell me how.

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Old 06-23-2010, 05:09 PM
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Default I wanna drop a LS3 into my 05 V and your gonna tell me how.

Do I need to swap the PCM or just the crank trigger (58 tooth?)

If I don't need to swap PCMs, then I will need the Ls1 to LS2 conversion for the TB. What about the knock sensors?

What else am I missing?
Old 06-23-2010, 05:36 PM
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go to the other forum and look for the thread titled....."what ypou get when you mix a camaro with a V" or something like that.
Old 06-23-2010, 06:44 PM
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Look for posts from "MallettHammer" on the other forum
Old 06-23-2010, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by DoctorNick
Do I need to swap the PCM or just the crank trigger (58 tooth?)

If I don't need to swap PCMs, then I will need the Ls1 to LS2 conversion for the TB. What about the knock sensors?

What else am I missing?
Good luck!

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...hen-you-3.html

Originally Posted by wait4me
Very cool Video. Im glad you are finally enjoying your car. It is one of the nicest black 2004s i have seen. It was sad all the stuff you had to go thru to get it to this point. Im sure you will be enjoying that setup for years to come. This car drives perfect! I almost wish i set mine up like this as it is just perfect on how much power vs car ratio it has. Smooth.



The clutch assembly just needed to be shimmed a little different for some reason to set the clutch motion to be correct. It was only in and out about 5 times before i had it exact. I dont remember how much needed to be added.

This swap will be pretty much impossible for others to do if they are going to run the full motor with the throttlbody and everything. The computer needed major changing even after the 58k converter was used, to make all the 2004 computer work with it. When you try, it will shut off any time you touch the gas. In the future, i will post the raw hex segment i modified to make it work without failure.. The conversion of pedal to throttle opening is way off if you dont. so it thinks it is stuck open.

Other than that, the car went together very well. Except tracking down new parts for some stuff, the dealers where slow to get them.
Old 06-23-2010, 09:43 PM
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Thanks. Looks like I should be calling w4m while I am at it
Old 06-23-2010, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DoctorNick
Thanks. Looks like I should be calling w4m while I am at it
Best of luck and remember....take lots of pics
Old 06-24-2010, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DoctorNick
Do I need to swap the PCM or just the crank trigger (58 tooth?)

If I don't need to swap PCMs, then I will need the Ls1 to LS2 conversion for the TB. What about the knock sensors?

What else am I missing?
You can use the LPE 58x-24x converter unit or what I consider the correct way, change to the 24x reluctor wheel. You must also use the Gen 3 (LS1/6) knock sensors. Several vendors on here sell the knock/cam sensor adapter harness so you can almost do a plug and play with that part of the conversion. I said almost because some versions of the harness require a wiring transposition in the cam sensor harness plug. I don't know if the LS3 has a 2x or 4x cam gear, so you'll need to check this also.

Your injector harness plugs will have to be converted to the EV6/USCAR type or you can use adapters here also. The plug swap is a much more professional approach.

The throttle body will also require an adapter harness or you could go for the gusto and get one of the NW DBW TBs which are compatible with your current harness.

Some of the new motors (LSA & LS9) have an 8-bolt flywheel flange also but I don't know for sure about the LS3. Something else to check on!

You can call Jason Harding at Katech and he can fix you up with all you need to do the swap, except of course, the tune.

It's a very straightforward swap, very similar to mine.

After a few weeks of test driving, I removed all the adapter harness stuff and hardwired everything for a more finished appearance, so I also have all of the harness adapter stuff available. PM me if you're interested.

Last edited by scatillac; 06-24-2010 at 04:58 PM.
Old 06-24-2010, 01:06 PM
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why didnt u just keep the blower on the car?
Old 06-24-2010, 01:18 PM
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Thanks for all the info!

I would have kept the blower on the car if I thought I was gonna keep the car. Up until a few days ago, I thought I was gonna be down to no cars, my bike, a work truck and a CTS-V 2 at the end of my contract. Now it looks like I am gonna be staying in the good ole USA for the next year and instead of a V at the end of the contract, I get a nice signing bonus and moving cash.
Old 06-24-2010, 11:15 PM
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How much do you think a LS3 swap would cost? For everything. Motor, labor, parts. Just wondering. And how much are ls6's going for these days? I'm just wondering if this is cheaper than a maggie in the long run.
Old 06-25-2010, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by smashn808
How much do you think a LS3 swap would cost? For everything. Motor, labor, parts. Just wondering. And how much are ls6's going for these days? I'm just wondering if this is cheaper than a maggie in the long run.
Being an N/A guy, I'm a bit biased, and the only way that I would want an FI system would be a factory setup, i.e. LSA or LS9. There are some good kits out there but they still have issues to deal with.

The LS3 swap (done right) would be more expensive but far more reliable than most of the current aftermarket stuff. I think that an even better option is an L92/LS3-based 416, which could be done for a just few more bucks than an LS3.

After all, the changes made to accommodate an LS3 would also accommodate a larger motor with ease with only the tune being different. Why settle for 29 more cubic inches when you could have almost 70 more?
Old 06-26-2010, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by scatillac
The LS3 swap (done right) would be more expensive but far more reliable than most of the current aftermarket stuff. I think that an even better option is an L92/LS3-based 416, which could be done for a just few more bucks than an LS3.

After all, the changes made to accommodate an LS3 would also accommodate a larger motor with ease with only the tune being different. Why settle for 29 more cubic inches when you could have almost 70 more?
This x2
Old 06-30-2010, 11:57 PM
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i did the swap -LS3 block 416 ci but with a 122 blower on it- the best advice i can give is get the harnesses for the crank trigger and the knock sensors ( i got one that was wired wrong-headache) but be sure to drill out the block to accept the old style sensors- i missed this step and had to repull the motor out again to do it. Otherwise i used the origional computer and all accessories and sensors.
Good luck.
Old 07-01-2010, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by s-cam
i did the swap -LS3 block 416 ci but with a 122 blower on it- the best advice i can give is get the harnesses for the crank trigger and the knock sensors ( i got one that was wired wrong-headache) but be sure to drill out the block to accept the old style sensors- i missed this step and had to repull the motor out again to do it. Otherwise i used the origional computer and all accessories and sensors.
Good luck.
Why a 122 and not a TVS or something even more efficient? Not knocking your decision, I'm just curious.
Old 07-02-2010, 01:59 PM
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Smile ls-3 swap

keep it up this is getting very interesting
Old 07-03-2010, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by s-cam
but be sure to drill out the block to accept the old style sensors
Use a tubing sleeve over your bit to prevent over-drilling. The tap for the LS1/6 sensors is an M10x1.5. You will most likely have to adjust the sensitivity levels on the early type sensors to get them to function properly.

Also, if you're using the case from an LS2 GTO or an LS7 case, you'll also need to drill the hole (which is stepped) for the dipstick.
Old 07-03-2010, 01:16 PM
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LS3 plus cubes = win!
Old 07-03-2010, 04:58 PM
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LS9 or you're wasting our time.
Old 07-03-2010, 05:47 PM
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Good luck

And plus 2 for the 416 idea



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