New to the Forum Not to Cars....
11-12-2010, 06:02 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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New to the Forum Not to Cars.... So I am looking to buy this Cherry 04 CTS-V but I have a few concerns. I have been reading up on this forum and LS1, I know this platform has some minor issues. So this cars shifter feels like a old ford pick up, I thought Caddy would do better than that. So I noticed some people prefer pneouf or how ever you spell its short shifter. B&M and the others arent up to par with it? Input is welcome here, I just want to best one to make it as tight as possible with no side to side play. Feel more like a gated shifter like my Audi does. Second concern is a clunk once you let the clutch out (assuming its the bushing?) and when I let off in 3 and jump on it again. Do not mistake this for a whine or when stopped and putting it in gear, only when letting out the clutch and when theres a weight transfer such that I let off and jump on the pedal. Car only has 56K and is mint. I noticed no one makes the KARS 3 Kit any more, any one willing to sell one? I was also wondering if I do find a KARS kit would it work with TCPerformance gridle cage?
So All-in-All heres what I would get:
Axles (gforce or dss??? Prices???)<----Def. getting
Kars stage 3 (if I can find one)<-------If I can find one
TC Performance gridle cage (would it work with the KARS?)<--Def. getting
BMR anti-wheel hope (if I cant find the KARS)<--If no Kars
Short shifter <---- To be decided
Any other options? Car has different tires than the run flats so I dont have to worry about that. I just want a good performing car that will do a burn out every now and then with out hopping and drive nice and tight with a decent shifter...
also posted on the caddy forums but dont know if all users use both. So I am looking for the most responses thanks...
So All-in-All heres what I would get:
Axles (gforce or dss??? Prices???)<----Def. getting
Kars stage 3 (if I can find one)<-------If I can find one
TC Performance gridle cage (would it work with the KARS?)<--Def. getting
BMR anti-wheel hope (if I cant find the KARS)<--If no Kars
Short shifter <---- To be decided
Any other options? Car has different tires than the run flats so I dont have to worry about that. I just want a good performing car that will do a burn out every now and then with out hopping and drive nice and tight with a decent shifter...
also posted on the caddy forums but dont know if all users use both. So I am looking for the most responses thanks...
11-12-2010, 06:44 PM
#2
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welcome...you will get a lot of opinions on here that will help you out a lot.
#1, be ready to replace the clutch and flywheel. they are a POS stock. main issues it the dual mass fly wheel that weighs right around 45 pounds.
i have the gforce axles (well the driver side, passenger side splines got striped), and they do a good job. the are 550 for both. i had zero wheel hop with both axles replaced. now that i only have one its has a little, but no where near like stock.
KARS 3 will be hard to find, since almost all that have one wont want to part with it. but ebay will be your friend there.
the girdle is a good econo way to strengthen the diff. or you can get a hold of Chris at Gforce and have him throw the 9 he has made in there
.
i have heard really good thing about BMR, but they dont make anything for the 07 V. but it you get the Gforce or DSS axle, chance are you wont need this.
short shifter, any one you choose with be a huge improvement over stock. i have a Ketach, with UUC bushing, and i love the shift feel now. a new clutch will make it awesome.
#1, be ready to replace the clutch and flywheel. they are a POS stock. main issues it the dual mass fly wheel that weighs right around 45 pounds.
i have the gforce axles (well the driver side, passenger side splines got striped), and they do a good job. the are 550 for both. i had zero wheel hop with both axles replaced. now that i only have one its has a little, but no where near like stock.
KARS 3 will be hard to find, since almost all that have one wont want to part with it. but ebay will be your friend there.
the girdle is a good econo way to strengthen the diff. or you can get a hold of Chris at Gforce and have him throw the 9 he has made in there
.i have heard really good thing about BMR, but they dont make anything for the 07 V. but it you get the Gforce or DSS axle, chance are you wont need this.
short shifter, any one you choose with be a huge improvement over stock. i have a Ketach, with UUC bushing, and i love the shift feel now. a new clutch will make it awesome.
11-18-2010, 10:03 PM
#4
Axles (gforce or dss??? Prices???)<----Def. getting
Kars stage 3 (if I can find one)<-------If I can find one
TC Performance gridle cage (would it work with the KARS?)<--Def. getting
BMR anti-wheel hope (if I cant find the KARS)<--If no Kars
Short shifter <---- To be decided
-either will do, your lookign at least 1500 bucks before install
-with axles you dont need the kars kit plus youll likely not find one for sale
-tc girdle hasnt been used but on one car ive seen so its new....
-bmr kit is a waste of money and has been said to be a cause of diffs breaking???
-my b&m isnt bad much better then stock but ANY shifter you get will still have a little side to side play
Kars stage 3 (if I can find one)<-------If I can find one
TC Performance gridle cage (would it work with the KARS?)<--Def. getting
BMR anti-wheel hope (if I cant find the KARS)<--If no Kars
Short shifter <---- To be decided
-either will do, your lookign at least 1500 bucks before install
-with axles you dont need the kars kit plus youll likely not find one for sale
-tc girdle hasnt been used but on one car ive seen so its new....
-bmr kit is a waste of money and has been said to be a cause of diffs breaking???
-my b&m isnt bad much better then stock but ANY shifter you get will still have a little side to side play
11-18-2010, 10:42 PM
#5
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First and foremost make sure the car has an upgraded '06+ diff!! To my knowledge nobody has broken the upgraded diff, yet everyone still FREAKS out about the weak diffs in these cars. The first generation differential was known to break, but on the second generation upgraded differential the new weak link appears to be the CV joints. I'm not saying the second gen diff is perfect, because they are known to have gear whine, but they don't grenade like the first generation. I encourage anyone to correct me if I am wrong and show me a confirmed blown second or third generation diff. Put it this way, I have been trying to break my second gen diff and I can't. I cant get the car to launch hard enough to endanger the diff.
All the aftermarket shifters do basically the same thing, so get whatever is cheapest, I would suggest pisnuoff's. He modifies the stock shifter, this way it does not transmit any extra noise like some other after market shifters. Be sure to get the UUC shifter bushings while you are at it.
The clunk you are hearing is mainly from the front diff bushing, again get the UUC bushing. Be warned it will amplify any gear whine you already have. Stay away from the creative steel diff bushings, they don't last long.
If you get the axles with different diameters they alone will cure your wheel hop, so you don't need the Kars, or BMR kit. I would get the spectre works cradle bushing inserts to stiffen up the rear subframe, they are pretty cheap too.
Also, I disagree with Cole, the stock clutch is actually a stout piece. It held up great to my 500+ rwhp and many low 12 second passes. Many other guys running a maggie run the stock clutch with no slipping issues. The stock FW is very heavy and I'm happy I replaced stock setup with a lighter twin disc clutch, but at 77k miles the stock clutch still grabbed great.
All the aftermarket shifters do basically the same thing, so get whatever is cheapest, I would suggest pisnuoff's. He modifies the stock shifter, this way it does not transmit any extra noise like some other after market shifters. Be sure to get the UUC shifter bushings while you are at it.
The clunk you are hearing is mainly from the front diff bushing, again get the UUC bushing. Be warned it will amplify any gear whine you already have. Stay away from the creative steel diff bushings, they don't last long.
If you get the axles with different diameters they alone will cure your wheel hop, so you don't need the Kars, or BMR kit. I would get the spectre works cradle bushing inserts to stiffen up the rear subframe, they are pretty cheap too.
Also, I disagree with Cole, the stock clutch is actually a stout piece. It held up great to my 500+ rwhp and many low 12 second passes. Many other guys running a maggie run the stock clutch with no slipping issues. The stock FW is very heavy and I'm happy I replaced stock setup with a lighter twin disc clutch, but at 77k miles the stock clutch still grabbed great.
11-19-2010, 08:11 AM
#7
The aftermarket shaft's silicone insulator is also of a higher durometer than the stock shaft for a more positive feel.
This is very true. It is actually similar to the LS7 clutch assembly in dimension (the LS7 flywheel offset measures the same, so it should be compatible with the V's clutch cover/disc
), except that the hub has no cushioning springs (not a good thing for street use and transmission longevity 
). You still would have to use a spacer (or longer slave) were you to utilize this combo. Trending Topics
11-20-2010, 06:30 PM
#8
Staging Lane
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So I bought the V, 2004 w/ 56K. It is in mint shap, I will post pics tomorrow. Got it for a STEAL too haha. The shifter BLOWS and the clutch is at the floor, not all the way but its pritty low. Should I try to bleed it? And I think I will get a new shifter and all poly mounts engine/traany/driveshaft and get newer bushings for the rear and GeForce axles. So quuestion is where to get all this, help a new owner out with some links to buy all this for the cheapest cost not product...
11-21-2010, 01:24 AM
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[QUOTE=scatillac;14138975]The exception being that some of the more expensive ones (i.e., Katech) have an insulator which will reduce cabin noise over a solid stick.
The aftermarket shaft's silicone insulator is also of a higher durometer than the stock shaft for a more positive feel.
You're right, the higher $$ aftermarket shifters do have the insulator, where the cheaper ones are a solid piece that transmit vibrations and noise.
BUT... if you can honestly tell the difference between Katech's higher durometer isolator and Pisnuoffs stock modified stick, well, you're more a man than I am.
Details on your warmed over ls7, sounds like a nice setup!
The aftermarket shaft's silicone insulator is also of a higher durometer than the stock shaft for a more positive feel.
You're right, the higher $$ aftermarket shifters do have the insulator, where the cheaper ones are a solid piece that transmit vibrations and noise.
BUT... if you can honestly tell the difference between Katech's higher durometer isolator and Pisnuoffs stock modified stick, well, you're more a man than I am.
Details on your warmed over ls7, sounds like a nice setup!
11-21-2010, 10:59 AM
#12
LS7 case, ARP main studs, Cola crank, Callies Compstar rods, Diamond pistons, Mahle rings, LS7 heads/valves with minor clean-up and a light surfacing pass, dual springs w/Ti retainers, stock LS7 rockers, ARP head studs, Manley .080 4130 pushrods, a very, very mild LPE/Comp cam, JWIS timing chain, complete CTS-V wet sump pan/oiling system, LSXR 102 intake w/clean-up & port matching, flow-matched Siemens DEKA FI11351 injectors, slightly massaged LS7 90mm TB, 4" intake ducting w/PowrMax 102mm MAF housing, LS7 MAF card, LPE airbox with K&N RF1040 element, Jet Hot coated 1 7/8" Kooks D-port headers w/cats, Corsa exhaust. Tuned by Ed Hutchings at Virginia Speed.
I'll most likely be adding a C5-type NW102 throttle body so I can get rid of the adapter harness for the 90mm TB, which will clean up the engine bay a bit (and maybe see some gains above 3000 or so
). Last edited by scatillac; 11-21-2010 at 11:08 AM.
11-23-2010, 01:02 PM
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Agreed, his mounts are bad ***. It's a shame not many people know about them. My CS mounts are starting to bubble and melt, but they still seem tight.
Only downfall is I don't think RC51 is making those mounts anymore, I thought he sold his car and stopped the custom fabrication projects. If he isn't making them I plan on building a set for myself and doing a run of about 15-20 for other members. This is still a few months down the road.
Only downfall is I don't think RC51 is making those mounts anymore, I thought he sold his car and stopped the custom fabrication projects. If he isn't making them I plan on building a set for myself and doing a run of about 15-20 for other members. This is still a few months down the road.
11-23-2010, 01:24 PM
#18
11-23-2010, 08:51 PM
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Staging Lane
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Back to the thread, I bought the following:
Creative steel:
Motor mounts with shields (hard)
Tranny mount (softer like stock)
Driveshaft (get to test them out)
and diff mount (hard)
Psnuff short shifter (back order)
TCPerformance full gridle (should keep it in once peace)
GeForce axles (2 week wait)
After this and I can beat her with out breaking the rear I will start down the long road of modding her....
I will be doing a update thread/driveline build (all the above) and test everything out. Will also have a lot of pics.
Then I will be looking to do stages and looking for some input.
Stage 1:
bolt ons for the future. What I mean is I want to get all the right bolt on for what I want down the road (continue reading)
Stage 2:
Upper motor ie. cams, heads, rocker ect...
Stage 3:
maggie
Input welcome, car has CAI, Corsa catback, SS brake lines, Gm perf. wheels. Used parts are welcome too, pm me what you have that applies to the list...
Also had a question, for a tune do they just reflash the ECU in this car or do we buy an after market piggy back or stand alone?
