Stock manifolds with hi-flow cats VS long tubes
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I know I know, long tubes are better, but hear me out.
I have a limited budget and need to do a lot to my car. Several issues have come up and I finally have a little $$$ to get some of them fixed.
My clutch is starting to slip, but that's covered more in another thread. I am also throwing a code for Cat efficiency failure. Recent dyno showed 414 whp vs the 489 whp it did 2 years ago! Plugs look fine, assuming I have a plugged cat at this point!
2005 V, 77k with maggie and corsa. Maggie was dealer installed (0 miles). Im changing mm, trans, diff bushings since mine are all shot. Im also doing brakes as they are in need. I need to do cats and want to do headers, but dont have the cash for headers/cats and a clutch so..........
I can do LS7/F1 clutch ($550) and these hi-flow magnaflow cats ($310) or pacesetter or obx Headers with cats and limp the clutch another month or two.
What are your opinions? I only have about $850 to spend total. Not sure what my future budget will allow as I have a new business!
Are the cats gonna be an improvement over stock? Its currently my wifes daily driver, so street manners are important. End goal with the car is to get it back to tip top shape, professional tune and hope to hit about 500 whp with perfect street manners. (oh, and get my wife back to driving the tahoe when my truck is running again!)
I have a limited budget and need to do a lot to my car. Several issues have come up and I finally have a little $$$ to get some of them fixed.
My clutch is starting to slip, but that's covered more in another thread. I am also throwing a code for Cat efficiency failure. Recent dyno showed 414 whp vs the 489 whp it did 2 years ago! Plugs look fine, assuming I have a plugged cat at this point!
2005 V, 77k with maggie and corsa. Maggie was dealer installed (0 miles). Im changing mm, trans, diff bushings since mine are all shot. Im also doing brakes as they are in need. I need to do cats and want to do headers, but dont have the cash for headers/cats and a clutch so..........
I can do LS7/F1 clutch ($550) and these hi-flow magnaflow cats ($310) or pacesetter or obx Headers with cats and limp the clutch another month or two.
What are your opinions? I only have about $850 to spend total. Not sure what my future budget will allow as I have a new business!
Are the cats gonna be an improvement over stock? Its currently my wifes daily driver, so street manners are important. End goal with the car is to get it back to tip top shape, professional tune and hope to hit about 500 whp with perfect street manners. (oh, and get my wife back to driving the tahoe when my truck is running again!)
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It was a different time of year. It was the same dyno, although they moved their shop in between the readings so......
The main concern wasn't really the peak number, but the fact that the torque and HP dropped off big time after about 4500rpm on the latest dyno. Two other V's (one NA with nitrous and the other maggied) dynoed with me and they both had the curve I was used to....nice and flat.
Im blaming some of the problem on the magnacharger electronics box. That thing is a pile of sh*t. It has left me stranded twice due to failure and I have had repeated issues with the electrical plug shorting out! Thats why I want a custom tune and eliminate that thing. Is that possible?
Has anyone used the obx catted headers and passed emissions?
The main concern wasn't really the peak number, but the fact that the torque and HP dropped off big time after about 4500rpm on the latest dyno. Two other V's (one NA with nitrous and the other maggied) dynoed with me and they both had the curve I was used to....nice and flat.
Im blaming some of the problem on the magnacharger electronics box. That thing is a pile of sh*t. It has left me stranded twice due to failure and I have had repeated issues with the electrical plug shorting out! Thats why I want a custom tune and eliminate that thing. Is that possible?
Has anyone used the obx catted headers and passed emissions?
Last edited by jeepster666; 01-13-2013 at 08:28 AM. Reason: added info
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Or just buy my obx headers and kooks cats
It was a different time of year. It was the same dyno, although they moved their shop in between the readings so......
The main concern wasn't really the peak number, but the fact that the torque and HP dropped off big time after about 4500rpm on the latest dyno. Two other V's (one NA with nitrous and the other maggied) dynoed with me and they both had the curve I was used to....nice and flat.
Im blaming some of the problem on the magnacharger electronics box. That thing is a pile of sh*t. It has left me stranded twice due to failure and I have had repeated issues with the electrical plug shorting out! Thats why I want a custom tune and eliminate that thing. Is that possible?
Has anyone used the obx catted headers and passed emissions?
The main concern wasn't really the peak number, but the fact that the torque and HP dropped off big time after about 4500rpm on the latest dyno. Two other V's (one NA with nitrous and the other maggied) dynoed with me and they both had the curve I was used to....nice and flat.
Im blaming some of the problem on the magnacharger electronics box. That thing is a pile of sh*t. It has left me stranded twice due to failure and I have had repeated issues with the electrical plug shorting out! Thats why I want a custom tune and eliminate that thing. Is that possible?
Has anyone used the obx catted headers and passed emissions?
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^ This. A CAT efficiency DTC doesn't mean the CAT's are clogged by any means, BTW. And you WILL have the same DTC for aftermarket CAT's also. I believe the general consensus is the OE CAT's cost about 15 whp and the headers are good for 10 whp on top of that.
The dyno readings don't really mean much of anything, unless they were back to back.
If you're talking about the Magnavolt, they have left many stranded. You can either upgrade to a Kenne Bell BAP or either a Racetronix in tank pump or a DW 300 (which is what I did). I would recommend replacing the in tank pump over another BAP.
The dyno readings don't really mean much of anything, unless they were back to back.
If you're talking about the Magnavolt, they have left many stranded. You can either upgrade to a Kenne Bell BAP or either a Racetronix in tank pump or a DW 300 (which is what I did). I would recommend replacing the in tank pump over another BAP.
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I'd check into your loss of power more thoroughly... If you're running lean it could end up bad for you... Ditch the Magnavolt and get a larger in tank pump for a couple hundred bucks... Gut your stock cats and have your tune adjusted to eliminate the codes associated with that... And get your clutch
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It was a different time of year. It was the same dyno, although they moved their shop in between the readings so......
The main concern wasn't really the peak number, but the fact that the torque and HP dropped off big time after about 4500rpm on the latest dyno. Two other V's (one NA with nitrous and the other maggied) dynoed with me and they both had the curve I was used to....nice and flat.
Im blaming some of the problem on the magnacharger electronics box. That thing is a pile of sh*t. It has left me stranded twice due to failure and I have had repeated issues with the electrical plug shorting out! Thats why I want a custom tune and eliminate that thing. Is that possible?
Has anyone used the obx catted headers and passed emissions?
The main concern wasn't really the peak number, but the fact that the torque and HP dropped off big time after about 4500rpm on the latest dyno. Two other V's (one NA with nitrous and the other maggied) dynoed with me and they both had the curve I was used to....nice and flat.
Im blaming some of the problem on the magnacharger electronics box. That thing is a pile of sh*t. It has left me stranded twice due to failure and I have had repeated issues with the electrical plug shorting out! Thats why I want a custom tune and eliminate that thing. Is that possible?
Has anyone used the obx catted headers and passed emissions?
Also look at the condition of your drive belt and make sure it is not slipping at those higher RPMs
#9
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I just finished reading on exactly what the magnavolt does (was misinformed about that). Now I REALLY hate it!
I thought about belt slippage but didn't show signs of it like the last belt change did. (sound, noticeable power changes when its cold, etc).
Just to clarify. I can replace my stock pump with an in tank walbro 255L, uninstall the Magnavolt and do nothing else??
If Im getting the cat code all of a sudden, and its not the cats, what else could it be? I cleared the codes once and they came back almost immediately!
I thought about belt slippage but didn't show signs of it like the last belt change did. (sound, noticeable power changes when its cold, etc).
Just to clarify. I can replace my stock pump with an in tank walbro 255L, uninstall the Magnavolt and do nothing else??
If Im getting the cat code all of a sudden, and its not the cats, what else could it be? I cleared the codes once and they came back almost immediately!
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Yes the 255 is a direct replacement... And your tuner can disable the o2 sensor related codes, so your CEL won't activate from the low efficiency catalyst situation
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