P0327 KS Code / New owner intro
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Hey guys, I picked up an '05 V1 in silver a couple weeks ago from Lindsay Chevrolet in VA. The car is mostly stock save for a Ligenfelter intake, Corsa and UUC shifter. Mileage is 101,xxx with some varient of the upgraded differential.
I washed the engine bay last week and now I have a P0327 code. My search tells me that I've proably ruined my #1 knock sensor from water damage. What parts am I looking at for the replacement? I haven't pulled the intake to look anything over, but I imagine I'll just be needing a new #1 KS (are the all the same PN?) and a set of intake gaskets.
I washed the engine bay last week and now I have a P0327 code. My search tells me that I've proably ruined my #1 knock sensor from water damage. What parts am I looking at for the replacement? I haven't pulled the intake to look anything over, but I imagine I'll just be needing a new #1 KS (are the all the same PN?) and a set of intake gaskets.
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I guess it's best that I don't drive it with the bad sensor. I babied it to and from work today not wanting to see if the normal amount of power was on tap. Anything I need to watch out for when pulling the plenum? It's years since I pulled a fuel injected intake off a small block.
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Leave everything attached to the manifold sans the wiring and fuel lines toward the back. Pulling the whole intake manifold shouldn't take more than 10 minutes as long as you have the correct fuel line disconnect tool. To Recap:
Pull Strut tower brace
Engine Cover
Remover intake tube and TB (as well as both connectors)
Unplug your injectors (electrical connections only)
Unplug Coil pack connectors (1 on either side)
disconnect both fuel lines
Undo the 8 or 10 bolts holding the manifold in place and carefully massage out of the center while taking care not to damage the harness or manifold.
Removing the coil packs and brackets may make life a little easier. The only special tool needed is the fuel line disconnect which can be had for a couple bucks at your local auto parts store, those fuel lines are pricey and a pita to get a hold of if you break them.
Good luck sir.
If I missed anything make it known.
Pull Strut tower brace
Engine Cover
Remover intake tube and TB (as well as both connectors)
Unplug your injectors (electrical connections only)
Unplug Coil pack connectors (1 on either side)
disconnect both fuel lines
Undo the 8 or 10 bolts holding the manifold in place and carefully massage out of the center while taking care not to damage the harness or manifold.
Removing the coil packs and brackets may make life a little easier. The only special tool needed is the fuel line disconnect which can be had for a couple bucks at your local auto parts store, those fuel lines are pricey and a pita to get a hold of if you break them.
Good luck sir.
If I missed anything make it known.
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Leave everything attached to the manifold sans the wiring and fuel lines toward the back. Pulling the whole intake manifold shouldn't take more than 10 minutes as long as you have the correct fuel line disconnect tool. To Recap:
Pull Strut tower brace
Engine Cover
Remover intake tube and TB (as well as both connectors)
Unplug your injectors (electrical connections only)
Unplug Coil pack connectors (1 on either side)
disconnect both fuel lines
Undo the 8 or 10 bolts holding the manifold in place and carefully massage out of the center while taking care not to damage the harness or manifold.
Removing the coil packs and brackets may make life a little easier. The only special tool needed is the fuel line disconnect which can be had for a couple bucks at your local auto parts store, those fuel lines are pricey and a pita to get a hold of if you break them.
Good luck sir.
If I missed anything make it known.
Pull Strut tower brace
Engine Cover
Remover intake tube and TB (as well as both connectors)
Unplug your injectors (electrical connections only)
Unplug Coil pack connectors (1 on either side)
disconnect both fuel lines
Undo the 8 or 10 bolts holding the manifold in place and carefully massage out of the center while taking care not to damage the harness or manifold.
Removing the coil packs and brackets may make life a little easier. The only special tool needed is the fuel line disconnect which can be had for a couple bucks at your local auto parts store, those fuel lines are pricey and a pita to get a hold of if you break them.
Good luck sir.
If I missed anything make it known.
Shameless plug for Luke at Lindsay Cadillac: He was exceptionally helpful with parts for my V1. Thanks Luke!
Picture of my V:
![](https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/62418_10200441218448912_1612650553_n.jpg)
#6
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Good luck sir, some members have broken the manifold bolts by getting a little to slap happy and going to town on them. The spec on them is in inch lbs I'm sure someone will chime in and get the right number here.
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This article covers what you need, except for the pcv conversion of course.
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18
What shop manual do you guys prefer to use?