What did you do to your V today?
04-03-2018, 08:37 PM
#2101
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Auburn, WA
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Wheels are your typical Team Dynamics 18x9 +38 shod in 275/35 Potenza S-04s all around. Pretty pissed off tires if I do say.
04-05-2018, 12:41 PM
#2102
Scored a set of advanced induction 243 heads with the 232 cnc porting already done .
On their way to AI for a minor machine work to make them serviceable and for rebuilding.
Looking at cams and building up a pallet of stuff to hop across the pond my next trip stateside.
Props to Naf for hooking me up with a full TI valve setup that will go into the new to me heads.
-Byron
On their way to AI for a minor machine work to make them serviceable and for rebuilding.
Looking at cams and building up a pallet of stuff to hop across the pond my next trip stateside.
Props to Naf for hooking me up with a full TI valve setup that will go into the new to me heads.
-Byron
04-12-2018, 10:27 AM
#2107
Something rubbing ever so slightly in the front. I have heard the noise three times. Twice at high speed, once at low speed. All during compression so I would ask for those with knowledge in the suspension geometry or camber curve; When the wheel travels up, or the body down, the tire comes closer to the upright on the knuckle? Is the nub on the pinchbolt that holds the front UCA balljoint the problem?
I have mighty mouse 3/16" wheel spacers I will toss on tonight and re-evaluate. I know that area was quite close and I have seen previous threads indicate how close larger tires get to inside suspension components. I think I should be fine with this. I am poking the wheel/tire combo out 10mm from stock as it is using the larger sized tires and wheel as it is. THat also gave me more clearance on the inside. Pretty neat stuff and also interesting to learn more about this chassis as my days of ownership go on.
For those that reply, that stuck with my wall of text, I thank you.
CTS-V vs The World
I have mighty mouse 3/16" wheel spacers I will toss on tonight and re-evaluate. I know that area was quite close and I have seen previous threads indicate how close larger tires get to inside suspension components. I think I should be fine with this. I am poking the wheel/tire combo out 10mm from stock as it is using the larger sized tires and wheel as it is. THat also gave me more clearance on the inside. Pretty neat stuff and also interesting to learn more about this chassis as my days of ownership go on.
For those that reply, that stuck with my wall of text, I thank you.
CTS-V vs The World
04-12-2018, 11:22 AM
#2109
04-12-2018, 03:59 PM
#2110
Winter has finally taken a break so hit the carwash for a hot wax and undercarriage cleaning. Also got my garage back. Wife’s MDX lost an expensive fight with a door that may or may not have been open(ing) all the way so now that big pig (the car) gets the driveway from now on. Might swap the winter wheels off this weekend too.
04-12-2018, 04:49 PM
#2111
TECH Addict
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Where the Navy tells me to go
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Something rubbing ever so slightly in the front. I have heard the noise three times. Twice at high speed, once at low speed. All during compression so I would ask for those with knowledge in the suspension geometry or camber curve; When the wheel travels up, or the body down, the tire comes closer to the upright on the knuckle?
Are you still at stock ride height? It is possible for the tire to rub the fender liner:
Pretty sure that was from before installing KWs, so stock suspension.
04-12-2018, 06:07 PM
#2112
Rubbing like that can be caused by excessive caster (which moves the wheel forward in the wheel well) and/or hard braking combined with compliant rubber control arm bushings.
04-12-2018, 11:13 PM
#2113
Alrighty, here is my update.
TO answer the questions or address comments made earlier,
AAIIIC, Yes I am at stock ride height.
I checked the rubber on everything, all good, just worn and compliant but nothing busted. That is good.
New front rotors (centric cryo-treated) and New front brake pads installed (Racing Brakes ET800). New Raybestos pin set. Did the lazy clutch fluid flush. I went to do it the right way, but when I was about to turn on the bleeder valve, I felt the whole stem, not just the valve want to rotate, then the whole arm felt like that would rotate so I got scared and did the lazy way. The lazy way entails of simply cleaning out the reservoir, refilling with fresh stuff, and pumping a bunch of times on the pedal to circulate fluid about. Very gross, it worked pretty well and that feels better also.
Everything seems tight, just the typical soft and compliant rubber bits. The only sign or proof of any sort of rubbing I could find was on the driver side front edge of the liner (about 2-4mm worth of liner) was clipped by the rotating tire. My wheels adn tires do not show any other signs of rubbing. It appears that my wheel and tire combo poking out the 10.xx mm extra is enough to cause that rub during extreme compression. The fender is not being hit, so that is good.
Afterthoughts, I am extremely happy with the brake work. I like the parts I chose and I appreciate everyone helping me pick stuff and work out problems. I know I spent extra $ on the cryo-rotors and I really like them. The metal felt different than all other rotors I have handled before. The metal felt smoother, sounds wierd for a smooth item, but I mean riding your fingernail over the surface smoother. I use this guys materials, he has never failed me and changed the way and materials I use when I perform brake jobs. http://gwrauto.com/starterkit.html I don't make money from that, but I highly recommend those starter kits. The silencer spray, ceramlub and pastelub are awesome. I barely use the grinding tool attachment because the rotors are almost always replaced. I do scrub them with the dry soap he gives you, another awesome thing that leaves no residue on the surface. I do brakes jobs for my whole family and good friends of mine and this stuff has made everyone so much happier with the work. I was always clean and meticulous, but the materials he has beat anything I have ever tried.
I tried the 3/16" Mighty Mouse spacers and with these "fat for the car" wheels and tires. The spacers would rub the outer edge. I took them off and put the wheels back on like stock. ~6 threads on each stud worth of material left. So, I would need to roll the front fenders to clear and it seems acquire some extended length studs.
Fuzzy, I got the Racing Brakes ET800 pad selection from you. Thank you once again for a stellar part selection.
I did see while I was down there, no one has ever changed this cars clutch. No bolts have any signs of being played with. Original clutch at 87k. I love finding out that there are virgin parts.
Next are rear brakes if I can get them done before my Florida trip. I will be driving down to Florida, in the V, next Thursday and Friday. ~15-16 hours.
Thanks to everyone for reading and helping me, once again. I am quite excited by this car and I plan on keeping it for as long as I can.
TO answer the questions or address comments made earlier,
AAIIIC, Yes I am at stock ride height.
I checked the rubber on everything, all good, just worn and compliant but nothing busted. That is good.
New front rotors (centric cryo-treated) and New front brake pads installed (Racing Brakes ET800). New Raybestos pin set. Did the lazy clutch fluid flush. I went to do it the right way, but when I was about to turn on the bleeder valve, I felt the whole stem, not just the valve want to rotate, then the whole arm felt like that would rotate so I got scared and did the lazy way. The lazy way entails of simply cleaning out the reservoir, refilling with fresh stuff, and pumping a bunch of times on the pedal to circulate fluid about. Very gross, it worked pretty well and that feels better also.
Everything seems tight, just the typical soft and compliant rubber bits. The only sign or proof of any sort of rubbing I could find was on the driver side front edge of the liner (about 2-4mm worth of liner) was clipped by the rotating tire. My wheels adn tires do not show any other signs of rubbing. It appears that my wheel and tire combo poking out the 10.xx mm extra is enough to cause that rub during extreme compression. The fender is not being hit, so that is good.
Afterthoughts, I am extremely happy with the brake work. I like the parts I chose and I appreciate everyone helping me pick stuff and work out problems. I know I spent extra $ on the cryo-rotors and I really like them. The metal felt different than all other rotors I have handled before. The metal felt smoother, sounds wierd for a smooth item, but I mean riding your fingernail over the surface smoother. I use this guys materials, he has never failed me and changed the way and materials I use when I perform brake jobs. http://gwrauto.com/starterkit.html I don't make money from that, but I highly recommend those starter kits. The silencer spray, ceramlub and pastelub are awesome. I barely use the grinding tool attachment because the rotors are almost always replaced. I do scrub them with the dry soap he gives you, another awesome thing that leaves no residue on the surface. I do brakes jobs for my whole family and good friends of mine and this stuff has made everyone so much happier with the work. I was always clean and meticulous, but the materials he has beat anything I have ever tried.
I tried the 3/16" Mighty Mouse spacers and with these "fat for the car" wheels and tires. The spacers would rub the outer edge. I took them off and put the wheels back on like stock. ~6 threads on each stud worth of material left. So, I would need to roll the front fenders to clear and it seems acquire some extended length studs.
Fuzzy, I got the Racing Brakes ET800 pad selection from you. Thank you once again for a stellar part selection.
I did see while I was down there, no one has ever changed this cars clutch. No bolts have any signs of being played with. Original clutch at 87k. I love finding out that there are virgin parts.
Next are rear brakes if I can get them done before my Florida trip. I will be driving down to Florida, in the V, next Thursday and Friday. ~15-16 hours.
Thanks to everyone for reading and helping me, once again. I am quite excited by this car and I plan on keeping it for as long as I can.
Last edited by kra86; 04-12-2018 at 11:45 PM.
04-13-2018, 06:46 PM
#2115
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Control-Arm...s/372080318862
Glad you like the ET800, by the way. The stock suspension is very compliant so you're going to experience rubbing that we wouldn't see on a more modified CTS-V. For future reference the easiest way to service your control arms and rear spindles is buy a spare set on eBay together with a cheap arbor press. With that you can replace ball joints and rubber bushings under no time pressure.
04-13-2018, 08:39 PM
#2116
Is there no good way to use a ball joint service kit and press the ball joint out of the UCA while the UCA is attached to the chassis?
I just heard the first NOISE of the failing balljoint so now I am in rush mode to address the failing part. Thanks for anothing suggestion. I thought there would be enough room for me to get a large ball joint press up in there and press out the old worn balljoint and replace with the Moog while on the car. That is not feasible? Dang. Will order that UCA on the rush for shipping. This will allow me to use the OEM arm and the arbor press to dress up the new UCA just the way I would like.
Is a V2 UCA an upgrade? Is the STS UCA an upgrade? I swore I read that Fuzzy Logic had used a V2 UCA on his car.
Those ET800 pad material is EXACTLY what I have been looking for, for years.
I just heard the first NOISE of the failing balljoint so now I am in rush mode to address the failing part. Thanks for anothing suggestion. I thought there would be enough room for me to get a large ball joint press up in there and press out the old worn balljoint and replace with the Moog while on the car. That is not feasible? Dang. Will order that UCA on the rush for shipping. This will allow me to use the OEM arm and the arbor press to dress up the new UCA just the way I would like.
Is a V2 UCA an upgrade? Is the STS UCA an upgrade? I swore I read that Fuzzy Logic had used a V2 UCA on his car.
Those ET800 pad material is EXACTLY what I have been looking for, for years.
04-16-2018, 07:53 AM
#2118
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I had an exhaust leak, turns out two header bolts weren't even there. So I put them in, the front passenger side seems to fit loose though. No idea why. I then got under the car to guide in the oil dipstick only to find that the front O2 sensor on passenger side was unplugged, and the downstream was cut. I'm guessing that's why the car has been running like trash and not the MAF. It ran better after plugging in the front but still not quite right. I ordered two new downstreams so I'm hoping that fixes my issues.
04-17-2018, 10:57 AM
#2120
Flushed power steering fluid. It was filthy, dark, and smelled foul. That fluid was replaced with good ol AC Delco power steering fluid. It will take a few flushes before this gets more clear..... what a shame. Hit all suspension parts with Aerokroil. Wheel weights fell off (so I felt that classic 60-65MPH shudder in the steering wheel) the front so that was taken back to the shop that mounted and balanced the tires to wheel for me and the fronts were re-balanced for free of course.