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When I blew the dif, the 3.90 srx dif I bought was open, so I used the lsd out of mine. back then the clutches looked decent, but I couldn't find where to order new ones.
Bought everything inside the lsd new, all parts you need, you can get at your local dealer, bought the clutch packs at Ed Rinke GM outlet parts, $100:each set .
OBx catted long tubes are at a sweet price on eBay currently, 640 shipped!
Sweet for about 3 years until they rust away to nothing, like mine recently did. They're not 304 stainless steel and the welds eventually evaporate. Then you'll probably be off buying a set of Kooks or ARH headers and getting them White Lightning coated like you should have done in the first place.
Hope you can all learn from my mistakes... I'm probably the first guy to actually report back on OBX headers after running them for a few years. My advice is that a) the cost savings is not worth it, and b) you'll spend far more money and time wrapping and rewrapping your headers than getting them coated by Swain Tech.
I'm in the desert,haven't seen rust in years! Hopefully by then I'll be ready to go on a 402 build by the time the headers poo poo. My cats are making a lovely rattle and my wife is running up the bills currently so this was operation cheap ***. Have a couple rolls of wrap in the garage and arp hardware. That's about as far as I wanted to go with it. At this point it was more about replacing the cats than anything else.
Sweet for about 3 years until they rust away to nothing, like mine recently did. They're not 304 stainless steel and the welds eventually evaporate. Then you'll probably be off buying a set of Kooks or ARH headers and getting them White Lightning coated like you should have done in the first place.
I installed a Revshift polyurethane transmission mount insert which seems to have fixed most of the troubles of getting into 1st and 2nd. I'm glad! I also have a set of shifter rail bushings to do, but will probably wait a few days for that. Instead, spent the rest of the day helping my Dad pull engine and trans out of his 57 Chevy - going for an l83/6l80e swap.
No rust on my OBX here after 60k over 5 years. Southeast FTW.
Here, about 3 miles off the shore, anything short of 304 stainless rusts indoors (even with the A/C on). That's why you'll find few steel fasteners on the outside of my car... Bumax 88/109, Monel, 17-4 PH, and the occasional grade 5 titanium nuts and bolts. Sometimes makes me wish I was back home in the NW Chicago suburbs.
anyone have to dent a obx header to clearance the steering shaft?
I don't know of anyone who hasn't. Feels pretty terrible taking a hammer to a nice new set of long tubes, but it has to be done. Fortunately, it's been proven to have negligible if any affect on performance.
anyone have to dent a obx header to clearance the steering shaft?
Yep. A little if you have OEM motor mounts, and a lot more if you have other mounts. Not to worry--the tests I've read/watched have shown that header dents don't measurably affect performance.
Heat wasn't necessary. I actually dented two primaries. Just mark where it touches during a test install and take your typical 19oz hammer and go at it like you're driving a nail until you think you've done enough. It may take a good 1/4" dent. Fortunately, the driver's side is the easier to get in/out. Just thread the rearward most bolt, which you can reach up to do from below while you're supporting the pipes, then swing to the top and thread the forward-most bolt while you hold the gasket and they're loosely hung. Lay the rear of the gasket over the rear bolt you threaded from below, then go back down below, back that thread out slightly and slip the gasket between and re-thread. From there, it's much easier.
I replaced both passenger side window switches. They would roll down but they wouldn't go back up. Bought a generic key and fob off of Amazon that I will have to get cut and programmed. RockAuto dropped off a new alternator today, hopefully I can get it put in this week.
01-25-2017, 04:45 AM
