69stangscj

iTrader: (3)

What do you guys do? Also looks like torque them to 11 ft. lbs.
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/index.html

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Not a good idea.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

Unless you happen upon a torque spec that explicitly states that the torque spec is for a "lubricated" fastener, your assumption should be that the torque spec is intended for dry threads.

BigBlock.Condor

I've always been taught to use antiseize on plugs going into aluminum heads and go hand tight plus a quarter turn

Dmax/04V

Second on the anti sieze, having a stuck or broken plug because you didn't put that .02 of antisieze on there is a bitch.

69stangscj

iTrader: (3)

It doesn't look to have anti-seize from the factory on the one plug I pulled.

BigBlock.Condor

It doesn't from the factory. It's one of those precautionary measures a lot of people take just to avoid possible problems later. Plus aluminum is week and their threads get beat up pretty easily but anti seize helps prevent that as well

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

I always use anti-sieze on every car I do plugs on.

Whitten

iTrader: (1)

I did plugs this past weekend (see major pain in the *** on this car), and I put anti-seize on each and every one of those brand new NGK V-power TR55's. I have see too many botched jobs on aluminum heads and the resulting aftermath of the "fix" that is necessary to allow a $3 plug dictate to me not to.

When I first read your post I laughed a little to myself because you were asking about a torque spec and it started me thinking...how in the hell would I get my torque wrench in on the passenger side of the car.

I put mine in finger tight with the 5/8" socket and then put wrench on it to get it snugged up but nothing very drastic. Car is running fantastic and to ensure I wasn't over tightening I would snug them up and then after I was complete I went back and put the wrench on a 2-3 of them to see how easily they would come loose. The real PITA is getting the plug wires to snap on or off on that passenger side.

69stangscj

iTrader: (3)

Yup, torqued mine all down as well with a torque wrench, didn't remove the battery or the oil dipstick. I did remove the ground at the back of the head. If you think these are bad to put plugs in try an F150 Lightning.

BigBlock.Condor

Honestly I hate doing plugs on this car. I usually do 1 side on one day and the 2nd side another haha

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Fixed, based on the link you provided. I know I've purchased plugs within the past year or so (I don't remember which brand) that clearly had anti-seize on them already, so not every manufacturer does as NGK does.

MichaelSuch

Plugs are easy on these cars. Maybe an hour to do. Easier with headers and if you take off the coil packs though. I've always used anti-seize on all of mine and no torque wrench (only cuz I don't have one that goes low enough, if I had the proper torque wrench I probably would use it). Never had any issues. But that is an interesting read from NGK. Thanks. Maybe I won't use anti-seize next time. I change plugs every could thousand miles on my 4g63 powered cars and about every 20k on the V. Chances of a stuck plug is minimal.

69stangscj

iTrader: (3)

I have 50k and the car and I checked the gap on the old plugs and ohmed out the wires, and I honestly don't think the car really needed them. But they are done now, and I did one side one day, then the other the next. The torque was pretty much just snug. One thing I was surprised with is the plugs were tapered, no washer? The stock that I pulled out were also, so I installed the new ones.

ryridesmotox

I'm with micbaelsuch... The plugs on this are pretty easy IMHO. I do have headers, and they are easy to get to like that. I just take the coil brackets off makes it really easy. A wobble extension makes it even better