Makin progress
#501
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Other than the assertion that the design is for no purpose besides cost he's right(ish) with the second half. It's not ideal for a high performance car on which you want the ability to super-tweak the suspension adjustments.
But it is a functionally designed part nonetheless, not a compromise based on cost. It's an opportunity to add isolation and dampening to a part that would otherwise provide none.
But it is a functionally designed part nonetheless, not a compromise based on cost. It's an opportunity to add isolation and dampening to a part that would otherwise provide none.
#502
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
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Thanks for letting us stomp on your thread Naf, this is good stuff.
Material Finish....would whatever type of rubber compound GM is using for their control arm bushings and the urethane bushings Revshift offers have the same "material finish". Obviously the compound speced for the factory bushing has certain properties that will allow it to hold up to the twisting it would take being torqued like it is but could you expect urethane to hold up as well or could you expect to eventually tear it? Would it be advantageous to encourage a urethane bushing to be free of this preload?
Man. I get this and older GM products that you had access to the upper control arms from under the hood, we torqued them under load but on this car, I don't see that happening. As I work in auto assembly plants, I don't recall seeing a cell that is designed for that sort of operation and based on my alignment experience, I've looked. Not saying you're wrong, I just don't know how you'd do it. When reinstalling my control arms, I re-positioned them the way they were removed and torqued them as I knew GM just didn't randomly tighten and position them that way. But they weren't under load when I removed them so in my simple mind, they should be OK the way I tightened them because they should eventually settle in the same spot under vehicle load.
Practically speaking, the bushing is being forced to do some dampening work that is being taken away from the shock in my mind. Wonder if this is a way to "fine tune" to some extent a fairly simple dampener?
EDIT: I worked on motorcycles for a few years and have never seen this sort of built in "stiction" on those but sport bikes typically pivot on bearings or solid bushings of some sort. Being uneducated about the properties of urethane, I'm comparing it more to a bearing than a rubber bushing so I'm thinking you'd want the suspension to move freely with urethane bushings. Right or wrong?
The torque spec is designed for the type of bolt specified and the joint that it's being applied to. If you are re-using the stock bolts and the new bushings you are using have the same length center section, same size clamp load surface area and material finish then the torque spec should be the same.
With factory bushings you have to torque the joints at curb weight otherwise you introduce wind-up into the bushing and it will cause premature failure and undesired effects such as ride quality degradation among other things. If your urethane bushings don't rotate completely smoothly 360° then you should also be torquing them at curb weight. Curb weight meaning vehicle wheels on the ground, suspension loaded, not up in the air on a hoist with wheels drooping down.
EDIT: I worked on motorcycles for a few years and have never seen this sort of built in "stiction" on those but sport bikes typically pivot on bearings or solid bushings of some sort. Being uneducated about the properties of urethane, I'm comparing it more to a bearing than a rubber bushing so I'm thinking you'd want the suspension to move freely with urethane bushings. Right or wrong?
Last edited by ls1247; 04-14-2016 at 07:44 PM.
#505
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
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Practically speaking, the bushing is being forced to do some dampening work that is being taken away from the shock in my mind. Wonder if this is a way to "fine tune" to some extent a fairly simple dampener?
EDIT: I worked on motorcycles for a few years and have never seen this sort of built in "stiction" on those but sport bikes typically pivot on bearings or solid bushings of some sort. Being uneducated about the properties of urethane, I'm comparing it more to a bearing than a rubber bushing so I'm thinking you'd want the suspension to move freely with urethane bushings. Right or wrong?
EDIT: I worked on motorcycles for a few years and have never seen this sort of built in "stiction" on those but sport bikes typically pivot on bearings or solid bushings of some sort. Being uneducated about the properties of urethane, I'm comparing it more to a bearing than a rubber bushing so I'm thinking you'd want the suspension to move freely with urethane bushings. Right or wrong?
That said I'm out of this thread so Naf can get back to both amazing and confusing us.
#506
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Thank you
So i popped over to the dealer, he promised me a list of modules that i should order to get my girl runnin again.
It seems that because it went into antitheft mode a module should be changed.
They are goin to try and bypass the module in question and see if she will run...
So i popped over to the dealer, he promised me a list of modules that i should order to get my girl runnin again.
It seems that because it went into antitheft mode a module should be changed.
They are goin to try and bypass the module in question and see if she will run...
#507
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Thank you
So i popped over to the dealer, he promised me a list of modules that i should order to get my girl runnin again.
It seems that because it went into antitheft mode a module should be changed.
They are goin to try and bypass the module in question and see if she will run...
So i popped over to the dealer, he promised me a list of modules that i should order to get my girl runnin again.
It seems that because it went into antitheft mode a module should be changed.
They are goin to try and bypass the module in question and see if she will run...
#509
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We regained communication, but we found the batt to be FUBARed, the last guy drained the batt to far where he damaged the cells and now i cannot get more than 10v after two days of chargin. The worst part is i cant sue him fir a replacement for its all he saids...
I sent an email to braille for a replacement, which i am goin to buy now...
So thats two dead lithium batts this yr for me...
I instructed them to use a regular batt and connect the power lines to it. Thats what i should have done in the beginnin...
Once we reflash the whole car i hope to have it back on the road and burnin fuel...
I sent an email to braille for a replacement, which i am goin to buy now...
So thats two dead lithium batts this yr for me...
I instructed them to use a regular batt and connect the power lines to it. Thats what i should have done in the beginnin...
Once we reflash the whole car i hope to have it back on the road and burnin fuel...
#510
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This is all hear say, but i heard they got my car runnin yesterday.
Today they are plagued with no fuel pressure and i think i know why. I have external relay controllin the fuel pump current, the ground control may have popped off or the fuse blew. Like the racetronix but from the trunk instead of the engine compartment.
Will investigate this afternoon before i go home...
Today they are plagued with no fuel pressure and i think i know why. I have external relay controllin the fuel pump current, the ground control may have popped off or the fuse blew. Like the racetronix but from the trunk instead of the engine compartment.
Will investigate this afternoon before i go home...
#511
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We had feel pressure the whole time he was just looking at the wrong gauges no problem Dug little deeper and found out that the BCM I have in the car is currently locked so even though we've done VDT and everything else BCM will not allow any communication between the key and the ECM
that's giving errors for it not to start and run
Thankfully I have a spare bcm to swap and see if it corrects the error
that's giving errors for it not to start and run
Thankfully I have a spare bcm to swap and see if it corrects the error
Last edited by Naf; 04-20-2016 at 08:36 AM.
#513
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Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
Almost two years with this thread and no results to speak of. Sorry sir, I'm un-subscribing. When you finally post up any videos of this V tease maybe I will come back. This thread has become like the facebook postings of a teenage girl. ![Lurk](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies3/lurk.gif)
![Lurk](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies3/lurk.gif)
#514
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After I swapped the bcm i finally got this msg...
Two options,
1. I buy a new ecm and bcm and reflash as new car.
2. Try and reflash with vin of new bcm...
I am about to lose it here for i am makin the head way at the dealership and all they are doin is diagnoses with the tech 2 vs sfs programmin like they should have in the beginnin
Two options,
1. I buy a new ecm and bcm and reflash as new car.
2. Try and reflash with vin of new bcm...
I am about to lose it here for i am makin the head way at the dealership and all they are doin is diagnoses with the tech 2 vs sfs programmin like they should have in the beginnin
#515
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Naf, you are aware that you can buy a perfect copy of a Tech 2 for $305 on Alibaba, right? Might save you some time and money.
I've had one for a while now--mine works perfectly. If you need the exact name of the seller I selected, let me know. These clones go as low as $240, but I didn't want to buy a copy of the design from a vendor that was willing to use lower quality passive components.
I've had one for a while now--mine works perfectly. If you need the exact name of the seller I selected, let me know. These clones go as low as $240, but I didn't want to buy a copy of the design from a vendor that was willing to use lower quality passive components.
#516
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
Naf, you are aware that you can buy a perfect copy of a Tech 2 for $305 on Alibaba, right? Might save you some time and money.
I've had one for a while now--mine works perfectly. If you need the exact name of the seller I selected, let me know. These clones go as low as $240, but I didn't want to buy a copy of the design from a vendor that was willing to use lower quality passive components.
I've had one for a while now--mine works perfectly. If you need the exact name of the seller I selected, let me know. These clones go as low as $240, but I didn't want to buy a copy of the design from a vendor that was willing to use lower quality passive components.
#518
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What are you all thoughts on MSD's Coil harness power upgrade?
PN 88867
Supposedly it is 14-16ga vs 20ga wiring, and it has a direct hookup to the main power supply, so the power drop should be much less.
I am curious to try, so will buy a kit for my truck, and see how it pans out for me. If i get more out of her, then great, if not, its just $55 shipped to me..
My truck is runnin dual battery setup, a stock 5.3 with volant intake, 90mm tb, Vararam wedge, headers, stock Denali catback, and one step colder plugs, made 300 hp/lbft on the dyno, i didnt see the numbers with the meth activated...
Will post my findings.
PN 88867
Supposedly it is 14-16ga vs 20ga wiring, and it has a direct hookup to the main power supply, so the power drop should be much less.
I am curious to try, so will buy a kit for my truck, and see how it pans out for me. If i get more out of her, then great, if not, its just $55 shipped to me..
My truck is runnin dual battery setup, a stock 5.3 with volant intake, 90mm tb, Vararam wedge, headers, stock Denali catback, and one step colder plugs, made 300 hp/lbft on the dyno, i didnt see the numbers with the meth activated...
Will post my findings.