Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

V2 to V1 Rear Subframe Swap

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-18-2016, 10:23 AM
  #41  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
Mercier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bigti99a
wow this may change the 8.8 game.
For many, I think you may be right. I can't find anything for gears and/or diffs for that rear so I think I would have still gone 8.8 for the setup I put together(4.56s and Truetrac). I still may end up with a different ratio(4.30s?) depending on how I like it, but picking 8.8 ratios and lockers is like candy--every shape and size imaginable and even from multiple vendors.

I see 3.23 and 3.73(auto and stick, respectively) available which will probably work for a lot of people. Does anything else interchange from perhaps ZL1 or other Camaros?
Old 09-18-2016, 11:00 AM
  #42  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
 
bmylez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Yeah the main problem is finding an M6 diff. A lot of the auto diffs are 3.42 and without a lot of power, that is going to kill the grunt of a V1.

I was finding gen2 CTS rear cradles with all suspension included on car-part.com for $350ish. Tack on $150-200 freight shipping for such a large item, then ~$850 for V2 diff/axles on eBay, $1000 for custom DSS shaft, and however you want to figure out the brakes. Either drill/machine stockers and run stock parking brake or get the V2 parking assembly and run V2 rotors.

As long as you can find an M6 diff for under 1k along with a full cradle for under 500 shipped, definitely way cheaper than the basic CS 8.8 swap.
Old 09-18-2016, 02:58 PM
  #43  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
ls1247's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 2,413
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Naf
Absolute load of crap.

What about 54inch he's contributed more than he has what about fuzzy and my STS spindle upgrade these are light years ahead, what about my subframe connectors, my chassis stiffners the fact that my car is more carbon fiber than anyone else out there what about the dry sump system that actually works on my car just like the vette what about the fact that I'm running The widest tires on the v

Yes I've been spendin time playing around with my ECM upgrade for a while but it worked now I'm taking the time in swapping the complete harness so that it will work properly

One great idea doesn't make someone epic it just raises interest
In all seriousness, I've put a 100k relatively trouble free miles on mine since you drove yours around the block...

While I guess I understand what you and others have done, I go to threads like this to appreciate talent...http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...Charger-build?

OP, why did you need new cradle bolts?

Last edited by ls1247; 09-18-2016 at 03:47 PM.
Old 09-18-2016, 10:39 PM
  #44  
Naf
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
Naf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sandbox, Kuwait
Posts: 1,634
Received 18 Likes on 13 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ls1247
In all seriousness, I've put a 100k relatively trouble free miles on mine since you drove yours around the block...

While I guess I understand what you and others have done, I go to threads like this to appreciate talent...http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...Charger-build?

OP, why did you need new cradle bolts?
You should always change these bolts if you remove them more than twice. Your life depends on them.

Have my next project in the works, taking a 1994 2dr Yukon and updating all the drivetrain and interior parts from a 2013 Sierra Pickup. I am using the Aeromotive Phantom 450 as the fuel pump in the original tank, and C5 fuel filter to control the psi. Will retain the returnless fuel system and pump out 500rwhp/500rwftlb

This way i get a nice old look, with all the newest bells and whistles.

Last edited by Naf; 09-19-2016 at 01:10 AM.
Old 09-18-2016, 11:30 PM
  #45  
Teching In
 
lowoctane's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LSX416
1 piece aluminum driveshaft from DSS.
Stock length for the V1? Or is it a one off custom length? What is the length?
Old 09-19-2016, 07:51 AM
  #46  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
ls1247's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 2,413
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Naf
You should always change these bolts if you remove them more than twice. Your life depends on them.

Have my next project in the works, taking a 1994 2dr Yukon and updating all the drivetrain and interior parts from a 2013 Sierra Pickup. I am using the Aeromotive Phantom 450 as the fuel pump in the original tank, and C5 fuel filter to control the psi. Will retain the returnless fuel system and pump out 500rwhp/500rwftlb

This way i get a nice old look, with all the newest bells and whistles.
Just wondering if the cradle bolts he bought were any longer than the stock cradle bolts. If they are, it might show that the cradle bushings are thicker than the V1 bushings which might explain why he had to cut the springs to retain stock ride height.

The 94 Yukon project is a win as I appreciate taking tired vehicles and re-purposing them using salvage parts.

That's why I like this cradle swap. In the V2, all reports are that this cradle/diff was a factory engineered solution to the wheel hop and differential problems the V1 suffered with. The fact that it seems to be a bolt in solution that can be done using salvage parts is epic for a guy like me who likes driving his car but doesn't want to dump a ton of money in it.

The challenge here as someone already pointed out is the gearing. I'd do this over an 8.8 swap any day of the week if the ratios were close. Wonder if the later gen SRX diffs interchange and what kind of ratios they have?
Old 09-19-2016, 10:32 AM
  #47  
Naf
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
Naf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sandbox, Kuwait
Posts: 1,634
Received 18 Likes on 13 Posts

Default

I take the 3.42 ratio rear ends and run with it is just as good as the 373 and is especially needed when you have a modified engine to give you that little extra push in the gears
Old 09-19-2016, 01:30 PM
  #48  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
ls1247's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 2,413
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Naf
I take the 3.42 ratio rear ends and run with it is just as good as the 373 and is especially needed when you have a modified engine to give you that little extra push in the gears
Watch out! Gear ration wars are easy to instigate around here!

I don't disagree with this but I live in a fairly hilly area and I'm on a crowded interstate most of the time so I kinda like the 3.73s.
Old 09-19-2016, 05:06 PM
  #49  
Naf
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
Naf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sandbox, Kuwait
Posts: 1,634
Received 18 Likes on 13 Posts

Default

Btw my junk yard here told me 1250$ for the front subframe with lca and knuckle. Basically told him to easy up on the weed.

373 and 342 are about 200rpm difference. At 80mph.

I dont drag so i think more track speeds and vettes are basically 342 from the factpry
Old 09-19-2016, 08:41 PM
  #50  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
Mercier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ls1247
Watch out! Gear ratio wars are easy to instigate around here!

I don't disagree with this but I live in a fairly hilly area and I'm on a crowded interstate most of the time so I kinda like the 3.73s.
Ha! Yep. I am trying slightly to reignite that fun on Cap'tslow's thread. Just not totally prophesizing just yet until I actually get mine making noise.
Old 09-19-2016, 09:20 PM
  #51  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
ls1247's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 2,413
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts

Default

Anybody know why a V2 exhaust wouldn't work on a V1?
Old 09-19-2016, 09:52 PM
  #52  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (19)
 
AAIIIC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Where the Navy tells me to go
Posts: 2,398
Received 106 Likes on 88 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ls1247
The challenge here as someone already pointed out is the gearing. I'd do this over an 8.8 swap any day of the week if the ratios were close. Wonder if the later gen SRX diffs interchange and what kind of ratios they have?
I'm thinking that won't work out. Only the 1st gen SRX and 1st gen CTS shared a platform. 2nd gen SRX is a FWD/AWD platform (Epsilon II), not related to the Sigma II platform used by the 2nd gen CTS.
Old 09-22-2016, 07:01 PM
  #53  
TECH Regular
 
hefftone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dallas, Ga (2.7 miles from Southeastern Dragway)
Posts: 437
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Hoping to see some 60' times after this weekend!
Old 09-23-2016, 09:34 AM
  #54  
Teching In
 
chaggertyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

it's always exciting to read about potential new routes to take with the V1! Definitely can't wait to read about more results.
Old 09-23-2016, 10:20 AM
  #55  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
 
jmilz28's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,688
Received 111 Likes on 87 Posts

Default

Gear ratio is a preference thing, fine-tuning, almost preference. My loaded 98 Z28 weighed within 50-75 lbs of this car and the 3.42 gears were great. Usable first gear and better highway MPGs, that 200rpms can make a difference there. It's more than 200 difference if you factor in the different trans gears. If I lived in a hilly area, I'd lean towards the 3.73s. Basically, I think either will do just fine regardless. Both LS6 and LS2 have more than enough torque and flexibility for either, no matter what you're doing. In LS1 M6 cars, 3.73s weren't worth it, it was 4.10s or stick to 3.42s. In a stock weight car, I think that's the case here too...especially given the revised tranny gears in our cars. Preference and application optimizing are key, not need.
Old 09-23-2016, 03:53 PM
  #56  
TECH Regular
 
hefftone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dallas, Ga (2.7 miles from Southeastern Dragway)
Posts: 437
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Afaik, the ratios go:
3.23 base, V2 Auto
3.42 base
3.73 base, V2 manual

The base diff's are aluminum, the V2s are iron.
On the base much of the case (aside from the mounting points) Looks very similar to the early V1 diffs. Perhaps the ring and pinion could beborrowed from early gen cts/srx.
Old 09-23-2016, 06:33 PM
  #57  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
Mercier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

SRX had 3.9x or so right?
Old 09-23-2016, 06:37 PM
  #58  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
 
bmylez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by Mercier
SRX had 3.9x or so right?
See above post. Not true for gen2 stuff.
Old 09-23-2016, 07:16 PM
  #59  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
Mercier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 2,384
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bmylez
See above post. Not true for gen2 stuff.
I saw that. I was responding to Hefftone indicating that the base diff looked compatible with V1. V1 is compatible with 1st gen SRX(right?), so first gen SRX gears in V2 base or otherwise diff..at least worth asking the question. Or did I read that wrong and confuse myself?
Old 09-23-2016, 08:55 PM
  #60  
TECH Regular
 
hefftone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dallas, Ga (2.7 miles from Southeastern Dragway)
Posts: 437
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by Mercier
I saw that. I was responding to Hefftone indicating that the base diff looked compatible with V1. V1 is compatible with 1st gen SRX(right?), so first gen SRX gears in V2 base or otherwise diff..at least worth asking the question. Or did I read that wrong and confuse myself?
Don't rush out and buy two diffs to cannibalize, based on my observation of some pics on eBay.....cause that's all it is. I might be looking into it too much, but....in a way it sorta makes sense if getrag continued using the same guts.

I stuck a couple eBay pics of a base gen 2 cts diff....and a base gen1 cts.
Attached Thumbnails V2 to V1 Rear Subframe Swap-screenshot_2016-09-23-21-44-30.png   V2 to V1 Rear Subframe Swap-screenshot_2016-09-23-21-43-49.png   V2 to V1 Rear Subframe Swap-screenshot_2016-09-23-22-05-54.png  

Last edited by hefftone; 09-23-2016 at 09:08 PM.


Quick Reply: V2 to V1 Rear Subframe Swap



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:10 AM.