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Can you remove any material from the inboard side of the wheel to clear the quarters?
i know this is kind of a dumb question, but looking at how close the wheel comes to the edge of the quarter, at a reasonable ride height, it looks like there would be rub. If there is an 1/8” taken off, it might have a clean look...
so update 4800 miles of dailying car. Beating the snot out of it and driveshaft is holding up fine. My carrier bearing does need replaced as i can hear a squeal after i run a 1/4 mile pass and let off and hit brakes hard. This is not related to v2 rear. Looking at carrier bearing rubber is just shot and sagging. Does anybody have voodoo chickens number or way of talking to him besides on here so I can get shaft serviced? I will be doing corvette wheel conversion at end of summer I will do a write up on it.
best mod ever when you have correct cam torque and power. Car puts power down nice. Have not been to track yet but I suspect on 245 tires car will go 12.3-12.5 @114-115 based on some hp tuners logs and gtech data. I love not having to shift so much around town. I drive this car 24-26K a year in iowa. I have LuK LS7 clutch also take off is good from stops on hills. Running 1400 rpm at 60mph is nice
ok update 6100 miles on car still on stock driveshaft and no spacer doing just great. Took it to local track with DA of about 1500 very humid. Have no idea of cars weight as scale was down. But i will say v2 rear is heavy compared to v1 and I had full tank of fuel car seat for daughter in rear and other children stuff in car.
I also hit limiter like 30-40 feet before end of track around 7000 rpms. I have since changed it to 7200 as bottom end is forged. This is running thru in 3rd gear launching at 2800-3200 soft clutch slip. I tried 4200 and clutch got hot enough I got clutch fluid to hot and go locked out of 2nd gear reblead cluitch and all is well. only ran car two runs as it was a spur of moment choice to go.
Car 100 percent stock weight wise except headers full stainless exhaust and v2 rear end full tank of fuel 3860 race weight was 4080 pounds for anybody who cares
Ok so update 12250 miles on rear end with stone stock 97k mile v1 driveshaft. So far perfect had some noise from carrier bearing in middle mid summer and was going to replace it via voodoochicken but sprayed lube on it no noise since. Rubber still sags does need replaced but cvs look pefrect. I have no doubt this will make it 100K miles. I think the v2 with stock v2 bushings is mounted so much better driveshaft being 1/2 inch shorter is not affecting it. I do drive the wheels of this car!!!! I will be doing corvette wheels soon with as stated before zr1 hubs, camaro rotors with center bored out, and v2 ebrake backplates.
After reading these threads I started to look into a 2nd gen V rear suspension into my V. It is definitely a cheaper route to go so I researched more. It appears that gen2 V diffs get replaced a ton too though. Not at all for breaking, but they hummm and howl like crazy. Looked at several V forums and people taking their V to get their 2nd 3rd 4th rear diff just like the V1 guys..... but there's don't break, they get them replaced because of rear diff noises. Im I bit less confident in this route unless I get lucky and get a diff that doesn't make a ton of noise, or is the rear noise overblown? I hear the 2nd gen Diff can handle like 1000whp,, they are just very loud.
After reading these threads I started to look into a 2nd gen V rear suspension into my V. It is definitely a cheaper route to go so I researched more. It appears that gen2 V diffs get replaced a ton too though. Not at all for breaking, but they hummm and howl like crazy. Looked at several V forums and people taking their V to get their 2nd 3rd 4th rear diff just like the V1 guys..... but there's don't break, they get them replaced because of rear diff noises. Im I bit less confident in this route unless I get lucky and get a diff that doesn't make a ton of noise, or is the rear noise overblown? I hear the 2nd gen Diff can handle like 1000whp,, they are just very loud.
I have 14500 miles now on this used 40k auto diff works perfect. No noise
The struggle is real finding a 3.73 rear. New they are $18XX. I might just suck it up and get the 3.23 gears or whatever the auto is (might help me decide to just to turbo with those gears anyways)
The struggle is real finding a 3.73 rear. New they are $18XX. I might just suck it up and get the 3.23 gears or whatever the auto is (might help me decide to just to turbo with those gears anyways)
3.23 work just fine this is with a mild cam and only a little over 400rwhp on mustang Dyno car has ran 12.40s on a 245 all season
that's good to know, ill probably go that route, think I might just get coilovers instead of cutting springs... I wonder what coilovers I need to get... for a 1v or 2v. Since the springs need to be cut on a 2v to 1v swap probably 1v coilovers? maybe? would be nice to be able to get 2v coilovers possibly, as there are more options for coilovers. When I put in the rear I want to get full poly bushings if I can but I hope the subframe poly bushings dont make it so the subframe bolts wont line up since they are not exact matches, if not I guess i'll return them. Also, when in Rome,, since ill be getting the ZR1 hubs like others have said I might upgrade to 2nd gen V, 6 piston front brakes, saw a youtube vid, looked easy, plus I could probably sell my 1v front calipers for 300-350 maybe so that should hedge the costs of the new calipers.
05-29-2019, 08:29 AM
