86 Trans Am project
02-23-2011, 04:48 AM
#44
Here is another update of the all nighter that i just wrapped up. Thanks to a couple buddies i got further than i would have if i was solo. Used the truck bracket with a stock 3rd gen alternator, pretty damn sweet, cleaned up the engine bay and got the drive line in, will have a custom trans crossmember today when i get up and back in the garage, glad i got this thing this far. didnt have to shim the converter much at all, and it was my first time to slot a flexplate, even had to open the converter holes up for the bigger ARP converter bolts. Still need pushrods and water pump.
02-23-2011, 12:24 PM
#48
I have a 08 WP, but i need the pump that has the outlet that can be knocked out and spun towards the passenger side, is that the one you have?
The shims were .075 a piece and two of them were shoving the converter into the trans where it was in a bind damn near, so i used one. Thunk it will be fine, it doesnt have much play like most GEN IIIs where the converter can sit back pretty far before you push it forward tot he flex plate.
The shims were .075 a piece and two of them were shoving the converter into the trans where it was in a bind damn near, so i used one. Thunk it will be fine, it doesnt have much play like most GEN IIIs where the converter can sit back pretty far before you push it forward tot he flex plate.
02-23-2011, 08:54 PM
#50
Yea, thanks for swinging by today.
Got some stuff done, has a crossmember now, need to fab up something to make the stock TQ arm work till the BMR piece comes in.
The alternator clears well:
Going to remove the trans X member tomorrow and finish welding it so she is ready for a beating once i finish the car.
Got some stuff done, has a crossmember now, need to fab up something to make the stock TQ arm work till the BMR piece comes in.
The alternator clears well:
Going to remove the trans X member tomorrow and finish welding it so she is ready for a beating once i finish the car.
02-23-2011, 09:51 PM
#51
can you explain a little more about the shims on the trans? when i put mine in the first time i didn't shim anything is that bad? i have the trans out now its going back in this weekend so i dont want to mess it up.
02-23-2011, 11:47 PM
#52
I shimmed the converter away from the flexplate to put it further into the trans where it should be as if it was behind a GEN I or II.
Different 5.3 and 6.0s have different lenght cranks, the older 6.0 dont need a shim(99-part of 00), the crank will sit the flex plate stock distance for a older TH400/350/700R, the newer need roughly .400 thick spacer between the crank and flexplate, then my 08 5.3 is .250 or so long so i needed about .150 more, but .075 ended up being enough i think. If your crank doesn not sit flush with the seal basically, you canot use a 6 speed behind it.
There is tons of this info in the automatic trans section that can clarify more.
Different 5.3 and 6.0s have different lenght cranks, the older 6.0 dont need a shim(99-part of 00), the crank will sit the flex plate stock distance for a older TH400/350/700R, the newer need roughly .400 thick spacer between the crank and flexplate, then my 08 5.3 is .250 or so long so i needed about .150 more, but .075 ended up being enough i think. If your crank doesn not sit flush with the seal basically, you canot use a 6 speed behind it.
There is tons of this info in the automatic trans section that can clarify more.
02-24-2011, 07:08 PM
#58
The engine has a thicker crank flange over gen3 engines. This is a gen4 engine. Cannot use the Hughes or gm spacer. It would be too much offset.
These motors need a flat plate and make rest of distance on tq converter mounting pads for correct offset with sbc tq converter/th350 trans
These motors need a flat plate and make rest of distance on tq converter mounting pads for correct offset with sbc tq converter/th350 trans
02-24-2011, 10:22 PM
#60
A 4L65 is stock behind it i think..
Got some done today, been at it for about 8 hours, finished the trans X member, hogging out the header on the pass side, welding a new flange on the river side, got them on, got the starter installed, mocked the front with the WP i have, radiator and trans cooler is in, got the shifter properly installed with the cable, feels good except park for some reason, but i will see when i start it up one day.
I think i figure the competition engineering sub frames out. You have to chop them into a few pieces and weld them together, go figure.
TQ arm is in place and secure for temporary till the BMR piece is in. Drive shaft is in as well. Threw the carb on and the air cleaner, looks like i might need a drop base as the cowl ares is not as big as my 4 inch on the 89.
Need about 10 different things to finish, fluids, belt, hose, water pump, ect ect.
Before grinding:
After:
Driver side, chopped the flange off and welded the 3 inch regular piece on:
Got some done today, been at it for about 8 hours, finished the trans X member, hogging out the header on the pass side, welding a new flange on the river side, got them on, got the starter installed, mocked the front with the WP i have, radiator and trans cooler is in, got the shifter properly installed with the cable, feels good except park for some reason, but i will see when i start it up one day.
I think i figure the competition engineering sub frames out. You have to chop them into a few pieces and weld them together, go figure.
TQ arm is in place and secure for temporary till the BMR piece is in. Drive shaft is in as well. Threw the carb on and the air cleaner, looks like i might need a drop base as the cowl ares is not as big as my 4 inch on the 89.
Need about 10 different things to finish, fluids, belt, hose, water pump, ect ect.
Before grinding:
After:
Driver side, chopped the flange off and welded the 3 inch regular piece on: