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GEN IV W/cylinder shut down

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Old 07-30-2011, 07:08 PM
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Default GEN IV W/cylinder shut down

I read before but cannot remember what to do to eliminate the newer GEN IV cylinder shut down setup on these newer motors, just use regular lifters or what? Just scored a 2008 5.3 for a friends and realized it had the pressurized valley cover for the lifters to activate ect. What neds to be dont to put a cam in? I though just lifter.
Old 07-30-2011, 07:20 PM
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Most performance cams are ground on a 3-bolt core. Just need to swap cam gears to the 3-bolt, non-DOD style and replace the DOD lifters. If you're going for "looks" (and that DOD cover is one fugly mother!), swap the DOD valley cover for a non-DOD cover and either use the factory o-rings or drill, tap, and plug the 8 DOD risers in the valley. Some say the oil pump will put out too much pressure, not too sure about that...
Old 08-01-2011, 12:13 PM
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http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...te-kit-458313/

Down the page is a list and part numbers that I'm going by. I have a 2009 5.3 that I'm doing the dod delete and putting a carb/cam in. The cam I bought is a single bolt cam.
Old 08-01-2011, 07:30 PM
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I 'think' you're OK with the single bolt cam, but either way, you will prolly need to buy an LS-2 front cover. In addition to the above, once the DOD cam sprocket is deleted and swapped for a standard 4x gear (single bot or three bolt), the cam sensor will be too far away from the gear with the DOD cover to give a good signal.
Old 08-01-2011, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
I 'think' you're OK with the single bolt cam, but either way, you will prolly need to buy an LS-2 front cover. In addition to the above, once the DOD cam sprocket is deleted and swapped for a standard 4x gear (single bot or three bolt), the cam sensor will be too far away from the gear with the DOD cover to give a good signal.
this is only true if the engine was also equipped with vvt. it is the vvt top cam gear that has the huge front cover that you will be replacing.
Old 08-01-2011, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 3pedals
this is only true if the engine was also equipped with vvt. it is the vvt top cam gear that has the huge front cover that you will be replacing.
DOH! You're right, Not sure what triggers the DOD...
Old 08-01-2011, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 3pedals
this is only true if the engine was also equipped with vvt. it is the vvt top cam gear that has the huge front cover that you will be replacing.
Hmmmm I was under the impression the LS2 timing chain set could be bought with single bolt or 3 bolt setup. I guess I got more work to do.


Edit....
http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...e-Kit_930.html
I knew there was a single bolt vvt delete kit somewhere. This may or may not work. But sounds promising.

Last edited by jsanford; 08-01-2011 at 09:46 PM.
Old 08-02-2011, 07:18 AM
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Jsanford, I think we just confused the issue,
If your engine has vvt, you will need to replace the front cover,
If your engine does not have vvt, you simply need a single bolt 4x top cam gear , or change cam AND top gear to 3bolt for the cam drive. Both single and 3bolt top gears are available for 4x
Edit frickin iPhone auto correct lol

Last edited by 3pedals; 08-02-2011 at 08:45 AM.
Old 08-02-2011, 10:40 AM
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The lifter trays have to be swap to ls2 trays
Old 08-02-2011, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Most performance cams are ground on a 3-bolt core. Just need to swap cam gears to the 3-bolt, non-DOD style and replace the DOD lifters. If you're going for "looks" (and that DOD cover is one fugly mother!), swap the DOD valley cover for a non-DOD cover and either use the factory o-rings or drill, tap, and plug the 8 DOD risers in the valley. Some say the oil pump will put out too much pressure, not too sure about that...
We recently did this on an '05 aluminum block Gen lV 5.3 with the front mounted cam sensor. This engine had a 3-bolt cam gear. We used a "smooth " non-DOD valley cover but at the time the O-rings were unavailable. I checked the hole size in the towers with drill bits and found it was perfect for a 3/8X16 tap so I bought allen head plugs at Lowes and tapped the towers. Had engine on stand...turned so towers pointed down...used a small rifle brush and a shop vac to keep particles out of engine. We changed only the 8 DOD lifters because the engine had very low mileage. You also have to change the plastic retainers (4 of them). The DOD engines have a different oil pan with a special relief valve. If you change to an F-body pan you really need to change the oil pump. We did'nt at first and when we started it we pegged a 100 lb oil pressure gauge at idle. Save yourself the extra expense and work and change it! Just for info to anyone who cares...we left the DOD cam in (because it was a driver) WRONG! After driving it for awhile, he had random misfires on a scanner and when we checked compression it had 170-180 on 4 cylinders and 135-140 on what had been the original DOD cylinders. Apparently there is some difference in the lobe profiles. Anyway, we swapped the cam to a low mile L33 and now it has 180 lbs on ALL cylinders.
Ron
Old 08-02-2011, 06:35 PM
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Thanks fellas, that should be all i need to know, it will be getting a cam and LS2 timing gear, i figured plug the risers and change lifters and trays and i would be set, so if i change the pan to a F car like i plan, a regular oil pump will be fine, that is good, i accidentally picked this motor up not paying attention to the valley cover.
Old 08-02-2011, 07:15 PM
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Whats it going in? New project?
Old 08-03-2011, 07:34 AM
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Going in a 81 olds cutlass with a 200 shot, still tring to figure out what cam, i think a Torqer V2 might be what we go with.
Old 08-03-2011, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
Thanks fellas, that should be all i need to know, it will be getting a cam and LS2 timing gear, i figured plug the risers and change lifters and trays and i would be set, so if i change the pan to a F car like i plan, a regular oil pump will be fine, that is good, i accidentally picked this motor up not paying attention to the valley cover.
The expense of changing all these parts on a DOD engine is a pain in the rear, but you usually get a low mileage engine...and at least they have the #799 heads and flat top pistons that are close to 10:1 compression.

Ron
Old 08-03-2011, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by rojs234
The expense of changing all these parts on a DOD engine is a pain in the rear, but you usually get a low mileage engine...and at least they have the #799 heads and flat top pistons that are close to 10:1 compression.

Ron
So is all the changes worth it with the later model 5.3 motor? I'm sure starting to question mine. I got a smokin deal on my 20K mile 2009 5.3 ($600.00). But with all the extras (LS7 lifters, cam, pushrods, valley tray, vvt delete.) I feel like I could have just bought a 6.0 to begin with. I'm over $1000 now with the parts I bought so far. And I still need pushrods, and the VVt delete.
Old 08-03-2011, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jsanford
So is all the changes worth it with the later model 5.3 motor? I'm sure starting to question mine. I got a smokin deal on my 20K mile 2009 5.3 ($600.00). But with all the extras (LS7 lifters, cam, pushrods, valley tray, vvt delete.) I feel like I could have just bought a 6.0 to begin with. I'm over $1000 now with the parts I bought so far. And I still need pushrods, and the VVt delete.
Most rodders would be changing these internal parts anyways. And yes, you did get a smoking deal!
Old 08-03-2011, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by rojs234
The expense of changing all these parts on a DOD engine is a pain in the rear, but you usually get a low mileage engine...and at least they have the #799 heads and flat top pistons that are close to 10:1 compression.

Ron
Yea, with knowing we are swapping cams and going carbed, it is still worth it for the fact we got it and a 2002 5.3 for 1000$, the 08 model has 243s, not that they are different from 799s.

Originally Posted by jsanford
So is all the changes worth it with the later model 5.3 motor? I'm sure starting to question mine. I got a smokin deal on my 20K mile 2009 5.3 ($600.00). But with all the extras (LS7 lifters, cam, pushrods, valley tray, vvt delete.) I feel like I could have just bought a 6.0 to begin with. I'm over $1000 now with the parts I bought so far. And I still need pushrods, and the VVt delete.
For people like myself it is still worth it since i do this so often that i have extra lifters, trays and other valve train parts readily available. If you are not like me, then you would want to hold out for the non DOD/VVT model.
Old 08-03-2011, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
Yea, with knowing we are swapping cams and going carbed, it is still worth it for the fact we got it and a 2002 5.3 for 1000$, the 08 model has 243s, not that they are different from 799s.

For people like myself it is still worth it since i do this so often that i have extra lifters, trays and other valve train parts readily available. If you are not like me, then you would want to hold out for the non DOD/VVT model.
What kind of hp do you think your pulling without the nitrous? I've seen some of your videos. I really like the white (I think) firebird. That thing screams. I'm hoping my 53 Chevy 210 sounds close to your car.

So far, I have a comp 220/220 581 581 112lsa cam with a vic jr intake/750 edelbrock. I'm hoping for atleast 400hp on the motor. It should be fine for what I need it for. The motor has the 799 heads.

So far I've picked up some...
LS7 lifters (under 5k miles) for $20.00
LS2 valley tray $50.00
Comp Dual Springs with locks (less than 2k miles).....$125.00
Value shopping..
Old 08-04-2011, 04:11 AM
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Those are over 300 all motor stock, so i assume a cam, induction and headers will have it about 425ish usually, perhaps more depending on other mods, ect.

You are going to love that cam, the one i have is roughly 226/230 on a 114, so the power band is just up a bit too high, yours will be very happy with that im sure.



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