jwatts

iTrader: (4)

I just got my carbed 6.0 swapped Chevelle going yesterday. I had a few questions for you guys running carbed engines regarding the cooling system. I put the engine together with the factory (I am assuming 190deg) thermostat. I know it is used in the EFI engines for emissions reasons. Is there any advantage with the carbed setup? Should I change it to a cooler temp? The reason it came up is my transmission is running a little hotter than I want it to. I figure that running it through a radiator with 190 degree water in it isn't helping matters much. I can install an external transmission fluid cooler if needed, but I figure a thermostat swap may do just as much good.

Also, in older vehicles, what pressure rating radiator cap are you guys running? I have noticed my cap leaking when my temps get up. I haven't gotten over 190 degrees yet, but once it gets up to operating temps I notice a little water seeping out around the radiator cap. I plan to put on a new cap and wanted to make sure I went back with the correct pressure rated cap.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Only one I have that is a stock t stat is my 94 gmc 1500 that is a stock 4.8. The rest have 160 t stats. I never payed attention to radiator caps though.

jwatts

iTrader: (4)

I think I am going to swap mine out to a 160 or so. I may just have a bad radiator cap, who knows.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Down here is Florida, my car gets fussy unless I keep it below 180. I think this alcohol infused gas percolates at a lower temperature in the fuel bowls. I also had to install a spacer/insulator under the carb to keep it happy on hot days.

Doug G

160* T-stat and has trouble getting to 170*...even thought of disconnecting 1 fan.

16# cap

As for the trans cooler... I do not use the radiator at all... just the biggest trans cooler I could fit (10" x 14" ?) and no issues even with the 4500 stall. I made a bracket to keep it off the radiator about 2" or so for lots of air flow.

jwatts

iTrader: (4)

Looks like I need to change my thermostat out. My radiator cap is 15lb, so it may just need to be replaced. I don't know how old it is. I have a BMW fan switch that triggers the first fan at 195, the second at 210. There is another switch I can get that triggers them about 15 degrees lower. I may go ahead and go that route to keep my coolant temps a little cooler.

331camaro

iTrader: (1)

my car runs 210. i never thought twice about it because thats what my truck runs at, thats what ive seen alot of 4th gens run at. im using the rad as a tranny cooler, that prob dosent help. how do you guys run so cool!

Prorac1

iTrader: (4)

Im running a Taurus fan and radiator with a 160 t stat and 14 lb cap. I hardley ever have to turn the fan on unless it gets hot out, and temp has never been above 195 I DONT run my Tranny lines through the radiator, just a large external cooler. Eric L

jwatts

iTrader: (4)

I just went and tinkered with it a little. I think one of my issues was my lockup converter switch was out of adjustment. If the brake pedal wasn't just right the converter wasn't locking. I adjusted it and that got my temps down a lot. I am also pretty sure my radiator cap is shot. I noticed from a cold startup it started leaking. I am going to swap it and my t-stat and I think I will be good to go.

Also, I see a lot of you aren't running through the radiator first. I got my trans from Bowtie Overdrives. To get their warranty the trans has to be set up a certain way, run through several tests and relaying info back to them, and if they feel good about your setup then you are granted a warranty. One of the stipulations is that you must run through the radiator first. They say it warms the fluid to operating temperature sooner and prolongs the transmission life. I don't know how much truth there is to this, but I do know I want to keep my warranty.

Prorac1

iTrader: (4)

With a stock converter I could see the concern with that. But for most of us running a 4000 plus stall converter, getting up to operating temperature, and warranties are of little concern. If it is a daily driver, summer/winter, etc, than I run it through the radiator and external, but on my summer toys, I only run an external. Eric L

Prorac1

iTrader: (4)

what size converter are you running JWATTS?

jwatts

iTrader: (4)

Running a 2800 stall. It is going to be more of a cruiser than an all out drag car.

Doug G

I have a hard to believing you can over-cool a transmission anywhere it is above 25*F.

How many people get in, turn the key, drop it in gear, and go with NO warm up ?

BUT, if they'll only warranty it that way, you're kind of stuck until it's up.(unless you just say "screw it !" )

My Camaro is just an expensive toy....and "most" won't give a warranty on "race parts" anyway

jwatts

iTrader: (4)

That's why they want it run through the radiator first. If you just hop in and fire it up, the coolant is going to warm up almost immediately (due to the thermostat) and heat the trans fluid to operating temp through transfer of heat from the coolant system. If it was run just through a cooler, and not the radiator it would take longer to get up to operating temp. At least that's what they told me. Anyway, I believe I will drop in a cooler t-stat and give it a shot. If that doesn't work it won't be bad to put a secondary cooler in after the radiator.

Quick Ranger

iTrader: (2)

I would never use a radiator for a cooler. I even run an external cooler on my work van, if you ever have these cheap plastic radiator tanks crack, you will have coolant in your tranny. I can't believe an aftermarket trans place would promote heat in an auto trans???

Doug G

We had a D-8 dozer do just that...$10,000 in repairs after all said and done, and it wasn't some cheap plastic end cap....just a shitty braze/weld job at the factory that showed it's self AFTER warranty.

Conklin249

Im running a Griffin radiator with a transmission oil cooler inside of it. Then I ran a B & M oil cooler from that. I would talk to Griffin or B & M to find out what system would work best for you.

cruisin'73

iTrader: (8)

my carb'd junkyard 2002 5.3 has the stock thermostat (190°?) and that is right where it runs. The F-body fans with staggered triggers keep it below 200° all the time. Would there be an performance/fuel consumption/component life improvment if I switch to a 160°?

Also, to be clear the truck thermo is built into the removable neck correct? What is the P/N for a 160° thermostat? Thanks guys!