Damn MSD 6010....no spark!
#1
Damn MSD 6010....no spark!
Ok so I got an L33 carbed, 4 speed super t10 81 camaro...I just had the engine running about 6-7 months ago...and I was using a wooden core support and homemade fuel IV feed lol!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...t-build-4.html
Now I got the car all put together and the damn thing won't start!
Not a fuel issue be cause the float bowls are full
Pulled a wire a put in a spare plug and no spark during cranking
Here's a list of what I've checked and done
i got a 7-800cca battery reading 12.5 volts
Got MSD harness grounded to back of cylinder head where factory grounds on LS engines usually go (even tried grounding that directly to battery!)
I also have engine grounded to chassis and battery cable grounded to engine block in a different location than MSD grounds
Checked cam and crank sensor voltage and I'm getting 12.xx during "key on" and then the voltage fluctuates between 0-5 volts during cranking which is correct according to my knowledge MSD tech
Also checked voltage during "key on" at MSD box connection and I'm getting the correct 12.xx volts
I can also tell the crank sensor is functioning properly because I hooked up the MSD software on my laptop and I'm getting 2-300rpm during cranking on both laptop tach gauge and column mounted tach
Also can tell map sensor is getting voltage because it shows 14.xx Pisa during cranking (prob has no bearing since you don't even need to run a map sensor)
Also I'm running MSD pretimed curve pill #2, which allowed me to fire engine instantly back in November (swapped stock cam with a run of the mill ls1 corvette cam to pick up a little duration and lift)
I'm all out of ideas guys! This blows...I don't even think my box is still under warranty, but the laptop makes me think its fine...I don't know
Calling ZoneRS, 3pedals or some other carbed LS guru, help me think out loud or something! Thanks in advance...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...t-build-4.html
Now I got the car all put together and the damn thing won't start!
Not a fuel issue be cause the float bowls are full
Pulled a wire a put in a spare plug and no spark during cranking
Here's a list of what I've checked and done
i got a 7-800cca battery reading 12.5 volts
Got MSD harness grounded to back of cylinder head where factory grounds on LS engines usually go (even tried grounding that directly to battery!)
I also have engine grounded to chassis and battery cable grounded to engine block in a different location than MSD grounds
Checked cam and crank sensor voltage and I'm getting 12.xx during "key on" and then the voltage fluctuates between 0-5 volts during cranking which is correct according to my knowledge MSD tech
Also checked voltage during "key on" at MSD box connection and I'm getting the correct 12.xx volts
I can also tell the crank sensor is functioning properly because I hooked up the MSD software on my laptop and I'm getting 2-300rpm during cranking on both laptop tach gauge and column mounted tach
Also can tell map sensor is getting voltage because it shows 14.xx Pisa during cranking (prob has no bearing since you don't even need to run a map sensor)
Also I'm running MSD pretimed curve pill #2, which allowed me to fire engine instantly back in November (swapped stock cam with a run of the mill ls1 corvette cam to pick up a little duration and lift)
I'm all out of ideas guys! This blows...I don't even think my box is still under warranty, but the laptop makes me think its fine...I don't know
Calling ZoneRS, 3pedals or some other carbed LS guru, help me think out loud or something! Thanks in advance...
#4
I've had several problems. The first time turned out to be a bad crank sensor, but car would crank and run sometimes and sometimes it wouldn't.
I've had 2 6010's go bad, one recently. Cranked the car, backed off the trailer, it died and smelled like plastic burning, found it was the box. MSD replaced it since it was still under warranty. I was lucky that my friend has the same box on his car and I switched to verify problem.
Now I keep an extra 6010 in the trailer just in case. They work great (when they work)
I've had 2 6010's go bad, one recently. Cranked the car, backed off the trailer, it died and smelled like plastic burning, found it was the box. MSD replaced it since it was still under warranty. I was lucky that my friend has the same box on his car and I switched to verify problem.
Now I keep an extra 6010 in the trailer just in case. They work great (when they work)
#5
Squirters def working I verified visually, if rpm is showing on the msd software then crank sensor should be good....
The only weird thing is the weather pack connector that connects the two grounds and pink switched wire melted for some reason, but I cut those connectors off and spade connected them and switched my ignition voltage source from fuse box to the old hei
Voltage source to be sure
It just makes me wonder if the box wasn't working then the software wouldn't register rpm, map, and timing right?
The only weird thing is the weather pack connector that connects the two grounds and pink switched wire melted for some reason, but I cut those connectors off and spade connected them and switched my ignition voltage source from fuse box to the old hei
Voltage source to be sure
It just makes me wonder if the box wasn't working then the software wouldn't register rpm, map, and timing right?
#6
About the only thing left is to check is 12V to the coil packs themselves. If that is OK try touching a 9V battery across the coil trigger wire and see if the coil fires. If all good then time to call MSD, run through their tests then get them to send you a new box.
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#8
Yeah, a rectangular 9V battery to the individual coil trigger wire. You need 12V to the pink wire and the black and brown ground wires connected and powered. They just touch the 9V across the trigger wire and ground to take the place of the 5V trigger signal that is suppose to be coming from the box.
#9
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did you say the power wire to box had 0-5 volts during cranking 5 volts isnt enough to fire the motor
take the " key on " wire and hook to battery directly for solid 12 volts and try and fire it then but remember you will have to pull that wire to kill the motor or run it outta fuel
i had my box on a 12 volt keyed and lost voltage during cranking ( under 9 volts ) stopped cranking and it had 12 volts again did the above test and found my prob
take the " key on " wire and hook to battery directly for solid 12 volts and try and fire it then but remember you will have to pull that wire to kill the motor or run it outta fuel
i had my box on a 12 volt keyed and lost voltage during cranking ( under 9 volts ) stopped cranking and it had 12 volts again did the above test and found my prob
#12
Ok so I found the one of the small ground wires that I reconnected came loose as well as the bolt for the main battery ground was loose. I also connected the msd box's ground and power wire directly to the battery just to be safe...here is what the end result was!!!!!!
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2eb9a29a.mp4
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2eb9a29a.mp4
#14
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Ok so I found the one of the small ground wires that I reconnected came loose as well as the bolt for the main battery ground was loose. I also connected the msd box's ground and power wire directly to the battery just to be safe...here is what the end result was!!!!!!
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2eb9a29a.mp4
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2eb9a29a.mp4
glad to hear it runs was it the loose grounds or the low voltage during cranking
#15
Low voltage during crank probably caused by the loose grounds, also I wish the different banks of coils were marked bank 1 and 2 because those were back wards too! Oh well it's running and custom mechanical clutch linkage is working like a charm so I'm happy for sure...
#16
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Low voltage during crank probably caused by the loose grounds, also I wish the different banks of coils were marked bank 1 and 2 because those were back wards too! Oh well it's running and custom mechanical clutch linkage is working like a charm so I'm happy for sure...
#19
Not what the MSD tech said...also if you look at the MSD wiring schematic bank 1 coil harness connector pins are opposite of bank 2....example pin A on bank 1 is cylinder 8 (rear cylinder) compared to pin A on bank 2 is cylinder 2 (front cylinder)...
I can't say if it would work because in addition to swapping coils banks I also fixed 2 ground issues so it is what it is, but I would place the coils on correct side just to do my due diligence...
Now I have to fix the alternator not charging, I soldered in my 1/2 watt 470ohm resistor so we will see...
I can't say if it would work because in addition to swapping coils banks I also fixed 2 ground issues so it is what it is, but I would place the coils on correct side just to do my due diligence...
Now I have to fix the alternator not charging, I soldered in my 1/2 watt 470ohm resistor so we will see...
#20
I forgot to mention on the flip side the MSD harness is long enough to switch coil plugs to either side...but again I try to be as thorough as possible, even though building a car there is always going to be a couple things goofed up that need corrected no matter how hard you try...