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what part doesn't clear? all the way around or just fronts? what size wheels are you running and what backspacing? also what part number brakes are you using?
what part doesn't clear? all the way around or just fronts? what size wheels are you running and what backspacing? also what part number brakes are you using?
Wilwood 140-13203 front
Wilwood 140-7578 Rear
The caliper rubs the wheel right where the wheel barrel steps to a smaller diameter where the centers are welded in. Front and Rear
oh unfortunately that means new wheels. i think i like a polished wheel better than a black wheel honestly, but any of those wheels will look decent. i like the weld rt-s's the least.
oh unfortunately that means new wheels. i think i like a polished wheel better than a black wheel honestly, but any of those wheels will look decent. i like the weld rt-s's the least.
Like the way my Street Lites looked once I panted the centers. But, they ain't gonna work. What else is there besides the RTS?
Centerline has the split spoke wheels but I don't think they will clear better thanyour street lites. I have the black welds on my truck (I know completely different vehicle and color combo) and like them a lot. Only the spokes are black so I think it would really set your car off very nice!
Steve, have you reached out to Wilwood to see if they might have a slightly modified caliper that would clear or how much and where it could be ground/machined off ?
I would guess they hit by 1/8" or less ???
Done this on stock calipers on a street car, so I guess it could be done on them ?
Might be cheaper to buy the strange 4 piston billet caliper set up. Then you could keep your wheels. I know they fit because, that's what we have. Not sure about any others. Might be easier to sell the calipers without losing too much.
Might be cheaper to buy the strange 4 piston billet caliper set up. Then you could keep your wheels. I know they fit because, that's what we have. Not sure about any others. Might be easier to sell the calipers without losing too much.
That is not an option for me. My rear does not have big ford ends. It has Chevy special big bearing. Strainge does not have brakes for those ends.
I found some new wheels that I am hot on. I have always loved the old school Cragars on 60s cars, but they car crap wheels. American Racing Wheels makes some wheels called Trakstar S that have the same feel, but are a true racing wheel.
I have Summit working on getting the blueprints for the wheels to see if they will fit with my Wilwood brakes.
that's been a road block for me as well, which is why 1 of the reasons i haven't tried to pursue this harder.
Exactly what's stopped me from getting a legit thing going as well. I do a good bit of work, a lot of it just lame repair work, not as much cool/performance stuff as I want to be doing but it is what it is, I take what I can get.
If I were to get a whole lot busier I would be at the point of having to seriously consider a legit deal getting it all set up that way. I'm now looking to buy a Bridgeport and a lathe next so I can start offering lightening services on people's existing parts and I can start making full custom stuff for people, have a way of drilling and tapping intakes, lightening stuff like that up, etc.
A lot of possibilities open up with the purchase of a nice mill and a lathe.
I need to go take a tig class so I can put that stupid thing to work doing something other than making a mess of ****. I can weld thin stainless pretty well now, gotten that down but any time I start trying to do steel or anything with some mass to it I'm having no luck there so it's time to go take a class... .once I get a handle on that I'll be a notcher and a bender away from being able to do pretty much everything.
At that point, I need a bigger garage, a lot bigger garage. Or I'm going to just have to start really thinking about a legit shop. If the work is there to support it. If not, then it's keep picking away out of the house I guess.
Speed have you looked at Sander engineering drag wheels? They used to make their wheel for American racing before they went out. I know NRC and S&W are both dealers if you want to see what they look like. That's what I have on my transam. They're pretty light and are sfi approved dbl beadlocks for WAY cheaper than anyone else's, and they look pretty nice polished up. If you were to have them anodized or powder coated to break up the solid polished look it might give ya what you're after.
Couple hours worth of work. My brand new spool of flux core got ruined in the flood in April so I didn't know till I went to open it up today. I'll get more tomorrow and move forward and get some work done. Just that much less I gotta to do tomorrow that was done tonight!
07-07-2016, 06:57 PM
....so weld ProStars it was 
(now everybody has them)
