LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Guys... Im just curious about this...

First of all, the 2002 Suburban I have, which is a 5.3, 2wd... IS running just FINE, but I just recently put over 100k on it and its not gonna run forever, so this is just an idea I had for quite some time now (for the future of the car...)Secondly, Im financially not ready to do such a swap, but again, Im just planning the future now for the vehicles sake..

If the motor were to go bad, anytime... Id wanna replace it, definitely with a larger CID motor...

Now, what I want to ask is this...

Why dont people ever consider swapping an aluminum Block in their Trucks? is it weaker under heavy load? is the weight savings not significant enough, since its in a heavier car? etc...

I was thinking of going with a 4" and 4.1" stroke motor(414?) and a baby cam and some small heads.. I wouldnt want peak HP, its still a suburban for the family, but plenty of low end torque and of course more HP than stock..

It is mostly a weekend family car and mild off road car, hunting trips, camping, etc...


But my main questions are, can a built 4L65E handle, something with a babycam 414cid engine... I dont want big peak #s, probably nothing more than 400RWHP.. (of course more would be better, if possible)

and would aluminum block be a bad idea? and if so... why?

Also , is there anyone here using aluminum in their trucks/SUVs?

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

414-418 cid, what would be 400+RWHP achievable, with plenty of low end torque and good low end power vs peak power?

This is just off the top of my head...
PRC 5.3 heads stage 1, shorties, high flow cats, stock muffler(wanna sound stock)
LS6 manifold, a cam in this type of range 221/228 .565/.550 116+2LSA...

what would need to be corrected in this post to achieve my goals?

probably aiming for a SCR of no more than 10.3:1.. maybe even less... (I dont wanna always be running on 91 octane)

edit:

sorry Im just rambling on, about a future plan I want to invest in, but its got me excited..

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

Kiss the trans good buy... its not just about the power but how heavy the vehical is. You also have to keep these things cool or they burn up. As far as the aluminum block you save something like 80-90 pounds. The problem with aluminum blocks Is that the tend to expand more. Iron blocks can take alot more abuse and would be better suited for what your looking for.

Hope this helps.
Good luck either way!

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

It expanding more.. how will that cause an issue in SUVs and not cars? is it just the weight its pulling will distort the block from load?? if this is so, then yes I guess I would go cast iron, but, if anyone is doing so, I would love to go aluminum..

The trans is a performabuilt 4L65E.. and Im not looking to make TOO much power.. Its way beefier than stock(which was a 4L60E)

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

I am not trying to bash your idea but Have you ever seen an LS1 block come apart??? Aluminum blocks suffer from Block flex under load...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ood-stuff.html

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

damn thats crazy...

So what Im trying to get at is this... is it the load its pulling that will cause this more than power being made?? (moving a much bigger vehicle?)

because what about those heavy GTO's over 4000lbs with FI, making tons of power?

Also, did the new GMC yukons and Suburbans with the 6.2 have an aluminum block? I think they did, thats also why Im asking... if they didnt, then forget it..

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

They are more expensive and harder to find usually thats why people dont use them. Most people searching for 5.3Ls are on a budget and arent going to have the funds necessary to put the block to its limits. I've personally put 465rwhp/422rwtq through a daily driven z06 no issues with the block being aluminum and the curreny setup is somewhere around 400-420rwhp no issues. I think you would see block issues around 600rwhp going FI. I also wouldnt see a real need to keep your Suburban 90lb lighter on the nose though and spending $400 extra for it being it alread weighs about 6000lbs. In a 2800lb car though i would definately spend the extra money.

Yeah the L92 is all aluminum (LS3).

Bo185

Your better of going with an iron block 6.0L. The 414 with longer stoke will give you problems and most have just went with a 402/408.

If you run an build 4l65 you'll be ok.

But the big thing is your motor should last another 100k

Also check out the truck site lost of info there.
http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

-IMHO people are not using aluminum blocks in trucks (except L92s) because what is the point of spending more to save 90 lbs on a 6000 lb truck.

-That said if you want aluminum, more displacement, and 400 hp the L92 is a natural. It makes 403 stock, w cats quiet exhaust and truck intake. The L92 heads (same design w different valves as LS3) are great. L92s do have VVT though. So you could take advantage of it and update to newer computer, or delete it and run what you have.

-On the other hand, like Bo185 said, that 5.3 should last a good while longer. If you want to up the power, what about a magnuson kit, or other forced induction?

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Im just curious how the longer stroke will give issues...

Especially since its not gonna be a high revver and the long stroke will help more with power output... It was believed that a longer stroke will makemore low end torque, but I dont think, thats factual anymore, but I did read that a longer stroke in 2 equal CID engines will make around 3% more power? or so??

anyways... Im glad to hear the motor will last much longer, but I just wanna have an idea in case it doesnt last that long, and even if it does, just to have a plan in the future..

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

Are the suburbans 6000lbs?? if they are the 5.3 2wd ones? I thought they were much lighter... I know the 3/4 ton 4x4s are (I dunno if mineis a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton btw)... I like aluminum because I think 90lbs is pretty significant of a weight savings.. Quite honestly, peoples pend $500 to take 25lbs off the front end of their F bodys, and all... I know this isnt a race car and it isnt even a car, but still, improved MPG, quicker acceleration, better braking, etc..



Well the L92 does sound sweet and I was wondering if a L92 crate is a lot cheaper than a L92 stroker, I could get from one of the sponsors (of course in the much later future)...


Like I said before, for some reason, I just HATE adding weight to the car.. even somewhat in a truck/SUV.. So I dunno about FI.. But if I dont have any options then I guess I would maybe use FI on the car...

If Aluminum is truly a bad idea and not worth it, and if somehow the 4.1" stroke is going to cause problems, then I guess the cheapest larger CID engine is the 408, from what ive seen.. but I wouldnt mind spending $1000 more for a larger CID, aluminum engine..

anyone else??

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

I don't know exactly what your burban weighs, drive it on a scale (truck stop, dump etc). I think you will find I underestimated if anything. My 04 1/2 ton Silverado short box reg cab 2wd 4.8 5 speed weighed 4700...

I would look for an L92 pull out, not a crate engine. To bad you didn't want one earlier. Last year I got my hands on 11 of them that were in a derailed GM freight car. They were new/never ran with only minor damage to the plastic parts. Sadly they are all gone now except the one I have for my Buick. Andrew has one in his 70 GTO (projectgatago), and V8rumble is putting one in his GTA. The others haven't shown up yet. But anyway, people have found great deals on low mile pull outs also.

If you want to save weight more power to you. It is just kinda impractical in a heavy truck application. Think of it in terms of a percentage of weight. Plus you won't be on a road course or trying to shave a tenth off your quarter mile time in the Suburban, right?

Budget wise a nice iron 6.0 would be a direct swap. Add some L92 heads and L92 truck intake and you will be in business. Or find a pull out 6.2.

Good luck no matter what you decide.

Bo185

The longer stroke will cause problems. If you want a race truck then 3% more power and 12 more cubes is worth it go for it! If you want a driver and relablity then stick with 4'' stroke! The longer stroke will case piston rock because it sticks out below the cylinder more and hence more ware. Do some searching here and PT.net

As for the alumium block. Its a truck! You won't notice 100# in weight deliverance at all. So you will pay more for the aluminum. Save you money and go iron use the saved money on more mods!

Tig

Sorry I dont mean to hi-jack your thread but.
I have a 2dr 2wd 99 Tahoe w/ a 5.7 Vortec.
What would be a decent motor to drop in place of it?

Thanks

subtlez28

iTrader: (15)

Here again the L92 is top dog IMHO for trucks (or many other swaps).
You will need to change computer and wiring anyway so I would definitely keep the VVT. GM High Tech just mad 499 hp on an otherwise stock (down to the truck intake) L92 with just a comp cam. Or settle for monster torque and 403 hp stock. You cannot lose.

Tig

Where are the best places to shop for pull out L92s?
Does someone make a conversion kit for the computer/harness?
This would bolt up to my 4l60E?
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

No I dont need 3% more power that bad..., it ISNT a race truck... I just thought itd be awesome having a faster suburban than others... or surprising Mustangs, etc..

Like I said before, good low end pulling power is more of a concern than peak #s, because this car will see mostly cruising and being on mild offroad terrain, when it isnt driving 5+ people around the city.. its a family car and transports a group of people time to time.. So I guess Aluminum Block isnt worth it, unless I find a good deal on a L92... So maybe I may as well go 408 on the truck...

Also just curious about this, but are any companies selling 6l80es yet??

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

My 01 4 door, 4x4, Utilit body long bed, Duramax/Allison weighs around 8600lbs lol.

Bo185

Any Lsx will work!

http://hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/Lisa%20Tahoe.pdf

Bo185

Yes Speartech has done a swap with it. But the kicker is it requires a Gen IV ECM to talk to the TCM in the trans. It can be swapped in but will take alot more changes and the Shift indicator won't work.

I would just opt for a Gen III 408 and a 4l80. Pretty easy swap!