New to LS1's my hybrid Porsche 911 (10/3 need help vid last page)
#121
with the wing on. This weekend I am painting the inside and jams. any red on the outside is either being covered by trim or on the plastic from the last spray job. It will be gone this weekend.
wind shield, lights, bumpers are also planned. I want to get it inspected next week.
wind shield, lights, bumpers are also planned. I want to get it inspected next week.
#123
Well, lets play name that noise... any ideas?
I have 50 psi of oil pressure at ideal and good rising pressure when accelerating.
Engine is cool to warm as I only drove it ~200 yards to record the sound.
[youtube]RMLyinXhW6U[/youtube]
I have 50 psi of oil pressure at ideal and good rising pressure when accelerating.
Engine is cool to warm as I only drove it ~200 yards to record the sound.
[youtube]RMLyinXhW6U[/youtube]
#126
10 Second Club
iTrader: (27)
i wouls replace the bottom end that sounds like a rod knock to me. Love the project mad props. Reason is that he over revved it enough to bend the factory pushrods, prolly a mis shift revved it to the point that the factory rod bolt streched and you have devloped the rod knock.
#128
i wouls replace the bottom end that sounds like a rod knock to me. Love the project mad props. Reason is that he over revved it enough to bend the factory pushrods, prolly a mis shift revved it to the point that the factory rod bolt streched and you have devloped the rod knock.
Top end noise has a much different sound.
Keep up the great work.
#129
i am looking to do the same thing and i just ran through your post. great job on the car and the only thing i was gonna ask was about the oil pan. but i noticed you ran into that problem before i could reply. do you have the g50 tranny or the classic 915? Would you recommend me doing this project or should i avoid it and keep the flat six? Whats been the biggest cost of this project? i'm not gonna do much body work like yours by putting a roll cage in or lower the hood height. i wanna make mine more of a daily driver because an 85 911 is just a ticking time bomb to throw 10k in for an engine rebuild. Any advice would be great! did you buy your adapter from renegade hybrids or kennedy?
thanks,
knox
1985 911 coupe
thanks,
knox
1985 911 coupe
#132
most of the noise was the muffler tapping the engine cradle. After removing that noise I shorted the coils one at a time till I made the noise stop. Then I pulled the pan to take a look around. The number 7 cylinder has a bad wrist pin by the looks of it. However the walls look as good as all the others. There was no metal in the oil.
Actually the oil looked almost as clean as when I put it in.
Looking for some advice. Can I pull and replace just the one wrist pin or do I need to do a complete rebuild?
Actually the oil looked almost as clean as when I put it in.
Looking for some advice. Can I pull and replace just the one wrist pin or do I need to do a complete rebuild?
#133
sorry for the lack of updates. I've been very busy lately. ( not on the car)
anywho. last summer the power was crazy on the car... I can't wait to get it on the road again. With a strong (stronger) LS1.
So we all know the engine had issues. see below:
how many things are wrong in this picture?
So I picked up another LS1 block... turned out to be a LS6 with the LS6 pistons less the cam. I am shopping for the cam now. I will be having the heads reworked also.
LS6 block
LS1 Block
positives:
The LS6 shares its basic block architecture with the GM LS1 engine, but other changes were made to the design such as windows cast into the block between cylinders, improved main web strength and bay to bay breathing, an intake manifold and MAF-sensor with higher flow, a camshaft with higher lift and more duration, a higher compression ratio, sodium filled valves, and a revised oiling system better suited to high lateral acceleration.
The LS1 pistons are made of a metal listed as "M124" - the LS6 pistons being "M142" which has a higher nickel and copper content. The LS6/m142 pistons are stronger and expand less under high temperatures, thus allowing them to reduce the bore clearance. Reducing oil consumption and increasing overall and high rpm durability.
further information borrowed from Ruthless pursuit of power.
Obviously, cutting windows at the bottom of each cylinder
reduces the strength of the block’s key structural area, the
main bearing bulkheads. With 40 more horsepower, 400-500
more rpm and even more powerful derivations of this engine to
come, the block needed to be even stronger than it would be
without the windows. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure,
in their ruthless pursuit of power, Dr. John and his engineers
had to do more than simply reprogram their CNCs to cut those
windows.
Finite element design work along with a lot of thrashing
engines to death (in a few cases, literally) on the dyno
eventually resulted in the special LS6 block having both the
bay-to-bay breathing windows and more overall strength than
the LS1 block
anywho. last summer the power was crazy on the car... I can't wait to get it on the road again. With a strong (stronger) LS1.
So we all know the engine had issues. see below:
how many things are wrong in this picture?
So I picked up another LS1 block... turned out to be a LS6 with the LS6 pistons less the cam. I am shopping for the cam now. I will be having the heads reworked also.
LS6 block
LS1 Block
positives:
The LS6 shares its basic block architecture with the GM LS1 engine, but other changes were made to the design such as windows cast into the block between cylinders, improved main web strength and bay to bay breathing, an intake manifold and MAF-sensor with higher flow, a camshaft with higher lift and more duration, a higher compression ratio, sodium filled valves, and a revised oiling system better suited to high lateral acceleration.
The LS1 pistons are made of a metal listed as "M124" - the LS6 pistons being "M142" which has a higher nickel and copper content. The LS6/m142 pistons are stronger and expand less under high temperatures, thus allowing them to reduce the bore clearance. Reducing oil consumption and increasing overall and high rpm durability.
further information borrowed from Ruthless pursuit of power.
Obviously, cutting windows at the bottom of each cylinder
reduces the strength of the block’s key structural area, the
main bearing bulkheads. With 40 more horsepower, 400-500
more rpm and even more powerful derivations of this engine to
come, the block needed to be even stronger than it would be
without the windows. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure,
in their ruthless pursuit of power, Dr. John and his engineers
had to do more than simply reprogram their CNCs to cut those
windows.
Finite element design work along with a lot of thrashing
engines to death (in a few cases, literally) on the dyno
eventually resulted in the special LS6 block having both the
bay-to-bay breathing windows and more overall strength than
the LS1 block
#134
So if I am starting from the bottom I mine as well clean up where the machining and GM cost saving are.
I have some time on my hands till I figure out what I want to put in as a cam, etc..
So today I cleaned up the oil pump and helped the flow a little. I also increased the spring rate some to increase the overall oil pressure.
8
My helpers
Comparison
Original
Cleaned up
Original
Cleaned up
Original
Cleaned up
I have some time on my hands till I figure out what I want to put in as a cam, etc..
So today I cleaned up the oil pump and helped the flow a little. I also increased the spring rate some to increase the overall oil pressure.
8
My helpers
Comparison
Original
Cleaned up
Original
Cleaned up
Original
Cleaned up
#138
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dallas,TX
Posts: 170
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Very nice build and excellent documentatation for others to learn. I'm glad this was brought back up as I am a new member and this is one kick *** build I would have missed. Can't way to see this thing in action. If you ever get rid of this car I will......... J/K! Good luck finishing this beast out, keep us posted.
#139
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (34)
Awesome build man! i just went through all 7 pages! It sucks that youve had so many problems with the engine. Hopefully after you button up the new LS6 your building, youll never have to worry about it again. One question tho. Are you worried at all about having all that weight behind the rear tires ? I could only imagine that car handling very interestingly lol
#140
Thank, I am a picture addict when it comes to breakdown and build up. it helps me remember how things go back together or how I put them back together for reference.
as for the weight behind the wheels it balances out the fuel cell, battery and radiator. upfront... not really balanced out but close enough. the car is just over 2000#. 1/6th of the weight is the engine and trans-axle.
it was fun with 225 whp. that as tough to beat with that power level. I can't wait for 500 hp. The car has no accessories other than the alt. no power steering or ac...
I will keep the updates coming but action will be slow till spring.
as for the weight behind the wheels it balances out the fuel cell, battery and radiator. upfront... not really balanced out but close enough. the car is just over 2000#. 1/6th of the weight is the engine and trans-axle.
it was fun with 225 whp. that as tough to beat with that power level. I can't wait for 500 hp. The car has no accessories other than the alt. no power steering or ac...
I will keep the updates coming but action will be slow till spring.