Jimbo1367

I would hope he will put a gusset or two on each upper control arm mount/plate. Thats ALOT of work he's doing. Looks good. I am curios if he check the frame to see if its square before he started stiffening it. Also........ double check after all the welding is done. Should be a killer ride when he's done

doctahouse

Just the streests of Edmonton. Should hold up to the pot holes!
1/4 is overkill, 3/16 just right lol.

Flex is a big issue for me since it's a convertible. Add any kind of big horsepower, it'll tweak for sure if it's left stock.

doctahouse

I guess with the price of scrap going up, I might as well cut off as much as possible...jk

Rear perch has a body mount the will be refitted once the body is in place. The coil spring pocket is gone.


Shock mounts..... Chop chop



Upper trailing arm mount.... gonzo




Almost done cutting. A brace was welded across the top.

doctahouse

Rear template





X Frame with wings

doctahouse

I like this frame of mind; Work smarter, not harder. So much easier for grinding.



This was bitch. I welded them out last year. Now I had to grind all the weld off.

doctahouse

And now the motor back in for a test fit. Some grinding is needed but very minor.


It's a bad angle but there is about an 1/8 of an inch under there. I broke this compressor so it'll get replaced.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

rotisserie showoff!

doctahouse

What can I say? I build bad *** rotisseries too

doctahouse

Got the rack back a couple weeks ago from Impact Coatings. Its carbon black powdercoat to keep it simple.

doctahouse

doctahouse

Cage nut fab'd as I won't be able to get to it once the inside is plated.

doctahouse

doctahouse

Chrome plated aluminum so it always stays shiny!

Now that the posties are off the picket lines, I should be getting the other goodies any day now.


[/QUOTE]

Jimbo1367

Very nice. ALOT of fab work.

doctahouse

Thanks Jimbo. You're 100% right, it's a lot of work. If you've ever noticed the vintage 61-64 GM drag racers, the frames are tweaked on them. Left fender sit higher and the door gaps are out of wack, all from the torque. I don't want any issues down the road.....

arwokc

I love this thread. I really appreciate your fabrication skills. One question I have is about the pan clearance. Is 1/8" clearance enough, considering engine torque? Are your engine mounts solid?

Build-it-Break-it

iTrader: (9)

I went through all 8 pages of this thread. Nice to see another classic saved! This thing is going to weight a ton with all the metal your adding lol Its built like a tank now. Nice build Cant wait to see more

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I've seen that. I suggest putting the frame on a frame machine before paint. We've got a guy locally that does ours, then we paint or powder coat it. We also tell him NOT to make any relief cuts for any tweaks he needs.

I've built cars with clearance that tight because that's all I had without hitting something I couldn't move. If you use poly or solid mounts you're fine. My Thunderbird is that way and it's my daily.

doctahouse

I will grind the front and rear chest plates down another 1/8" for 1/4" total. I don't have the top plate (under the oil pan) in yet so I am able to do that mod. The engine mounts are polyurethane so the flex will be minimal if any at all.

doctahouse

Thanks. If this wasn't a convertible, I would have passed on this. I love 63's and wanted to build it once and right.

The extra weight is not really a concern. I will have used a complete 4x8 sheet of 3/16 plate which weights 250lbs.