problem with flywheel spacer
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problem with flywheel spacer I have a 99 model 5.3 and I am hooking up a th350 with a b&m converter to put in my car. I installed the flywheel spacer between the flywheel and converter and now the snout of the flywheel hits and leaves a 3/16" gap between the flywheel and converter mounting bolts. Am I doing this right? The flywheel has a dish to it, it is not the flat one.
Last edited by b_evans06; May 6, 2010 at 10:44 PM.
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Didn't have my camera with me might try to take some tomorrow when i go to the shop to work on it. I had it installed between the flywheel and converter. When i tried to bolt up the converter the 3 mounting holes were about 1/4" away from the flywheel and the snout was bottomed out inside the flywheel.
Some clearance between the flexplate and the mounting holes on the converter is ok, but 1/4 in seems a little much to me. 1/8 might be better. If you're running an after market converter you might want to check their tech sheet or call them and see how much is ok.
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Yea I need to get an accurate way to measure the gap. It was late last night and I was already aggravated at some other problems I was having so I need to go back and check it out again. Will the curved flywheel work though? Or does it require a flat flywheel.
With the flat flexplate, the spacer goes on the crank first, then the 'plate. If you have the curved 'plate, the 'plate goes on the crank first, then the spacer.
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Yea i have the curved flexplate and have it mounted crank, flywheel, spacer in that order. I measured the gap and it is 3/16" between the converter mounting holes and the flexplate.
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3 /16s is perfect if the converter is completely seated in the trans, If the space prevents you from bolting the converter to the flywheel the spacer will not work. I'm not positive on the 5.3, but the early 6.0 with the 80e had a longer crankshaft extension.
The converter may be made for ls1 install, with a longer snout.
The converter may be made for ls1 install, with a longer snout.
Last edited by sparkwirez06; May 8, 2010 at 08:01 AM.
According to my information, the early 6.0 with iron heads is the only engine with a factory long crank.
The easy way to tell if you have a long crank is when looking at the crank flange. Normal Gen III (LS style) engines will be flush with the bearing seal. If it sticks past the seal by .400" it is the "long" style.
The dished flywheel will only install one way or the starter won't line up. If it is installed backwards there will be a fight to even get it bolted to the engine and your gap would be much larger. Are you sure the snout of the converter is sliding in the ring on the spacer? You shouldn't have to force any of this to get things aligned.
The easy way to tell if you have a long crank is when looking at the crank flange. Normal Gen III (LS style) engines will be flush with the bearing seal. If it sticks past the seal by .400" it is the "long" style.
The dished flywheel will only install one way or the starter won't line up. If it is installed backwards there will be a fight to even get it bolted to the engine and your gap would be much larger. Are you sure the snout of the converter is sliding in the ring on the spacer? You shouldn't have to force any of this to get things aligned.
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No force is needed, the converter snout easily slides into the spacer and goes all the way in until it bottoms out on the "lip" on the converter snout like it is supposed to. If 3/16" of an inch is okay then I will go ahead and bolt everything up. The converter is just an off the shelf b&m made for a th350 transmission.
