txtrex

iTrader: (1)

I m in the process of building an ls motor, I am on a budget so it will take awhile. My 69 camaro has a pretty new TKO on the gen 1 small block using mechanical linkage...what do I need to do to install this transmission on the LS1 and retain mechanical linkage? I thought I read somewhere about a bell housing that had an attachment for the z bar? I think it was mcleod that sells a kit? Any help would be 'preciated!

gheatly69

I am currently working on this. You need a McLeod adapter flywheel, p/n 460535. It runs around $428 at Summit. You must use an 11-inch clutch with this flywheel. That's another $300 if you need a new clutch. You will also need the LS7 pilot bushing (p/n 12557583). It runs $14. It is different from the standard LS pilot bushing in that it installs towards the end of the crank.

You may need a new bellhousing. The vast majority of small blocks came with a bellhousing for the smaller 153-tooth flywheel. You need a bellhousing for the 168-tooth flywheel. Several companies sell a repro "621" bellhousing for the larger flywheel and 11-inch clutch. Get the GEN I version. You do not want the LS conversion one. They run around $250 depending on where you price it. Look around.

Finally, Scoggin-Dickey (www.sdparts.com) sells a clutch ball pivot bracket that installs along side the drivers side of the block using the bellhousing bolts. It holds the block side of the Z-bar in place. It's about $60.

There was a Car Craft article a while back that whent through all of this and its where I got most of my info. In the article, they used Scoggin-Dickey sourced motor mount adapter plates. From the pics in the article, the plates were the version where the lower front bolt hole bolts both the motor mount and the adapter plate to the block. This is where I am stuck because that adapter plate will move the bellhousing mounting flange on the back of the block about 1-1/2 inches forward. Seems like that would mess up the geometry of the linkage. I need to call Scoggin-Dickey on this point or I may just buy two sets of adapter plates to see which works best.

After all of that work, there is the issue of finding headers that fit. I believe the area with the most potential for interference is around the Z-bar. I am collecting pictures of headers to figure out what might work best.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Kiesler engineering has a complete kit with everything you need.

usc2001gc

iTrader: (1)

Can be done a lot cheaper. Saw the below post over on chevelles.com after I had already bought a Mcleod Flywheel. I ended up using the Keisler Hydraulic clutch setup on my Chevelle due to interference b/t one of the edelbrock header tubes and the mounting position for the Z-Bar. I do have the Scoggin-Dickey bracket if you need one. I used the Mcleod flywheel 460530, which does not have the additional .40" built into it. Should have used the 460535, but I didn't know about it when I ordered and the 460530 was listed in a post on this site as the correct flywheel to use. I also retained my 12" clutch that I had purchased for the 454.

Anyway here's the post from chevelles.com

Hi all, I came across this on LS1Tech and I was wondering if anyone had used this. Beats the hell outta the price from GM for the LSx flywheel recommended for swaps.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...0-5-speed.html

I have done this, it is very easy and cheap to make it work.

To fit a 5.3L to an 'old school' style manual transmission this is what you need:
- Flywheel from a '06 4.8L or 6.0L, they are the same flywheel. It is raised to make up for the .400" difference. you do not need a spacer. The flywheel can be had new in the aftermarket for $60, Sachs NFW1050. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2271&ppt=C0338 This is the same flywheel GM refers to in their LS1 Swap guide.
- This flywheel is drilled for the old school chevy 12" clutch cover and uses 3/8" shoulder bolts to bolt the cover plate on.
- You will need an extended pilot bearing.

Pretty easy and uses common readily available parts, you should be able to put this together for $250.

Here is a picture of the header tube interference with the Edelbrock headers on a chevelle.

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

I have a TKO behind my 6.0. I used my bell housing from my gen I 350. LS flywheel and LS7 pilot shaft bushing. Before I installed the motor I drilled and tapped an unused boss on the drivers rear of the motor, its just below the lower rear most head bolt (I attached a picture where you can see it). If the alluminum blocks dont have this, then this won't work for you.

Then with the bell housing installed I mounted a steel plate between the hole I drilled and tapped, and the existing hole on the bell housing that was used for for the ball stud. I mounted my ball stud to this plate. I had to shorten my ball stud a bit (cut the head off and weld it back on) as the plate moves everything out toward the drivers side slightly.

The only problem I had was my fork was to long (little did I know GM has different length forks). The one I had was a long one, so when I disengaged the cluth (put the pedal to the floor) the fork was making contact with the slanted part of the toe pan of the floor. This created an upward pressure on the throw out bearing, and eventually the throw out bearing and front bearing retainer of the TKO wore out. I have since fixed the problem and works great.

This was a much more econonical way for me to retain my mechanical clutch without spending all sorts of money for kits/parts. Hope the info helped.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I've got a Richmond but pretty much the same as a TKO. Like others said, 621 BBC bell housing, LS1 flywheel clutch/pressure plate/disk, LS7 pilot bearing.
I'll add that Keisler sells a 621 bell housing (168 tooth) with the extra LS bolt hole and adjustable pivot for about the same price as most stock 621 bell housings.
Also, depending on your fork, you may need a longer throwout bearing to get the correct geometry.

txtrex

iTrader: (1)

I actually have the keisler bell housing, I had bout wone of their kits, so I may be in luck..I am worried about the headers now...I really appriciate the help, cant wait to get this puppy done...

gheatly69

My 2007 L92 does not have the bolt hole, but it does have the boss, so I could drill the hole.

It would seem that you could also shorten the z-bar a little rather that cutting/welding on the ball stud. However, my z-bar is still in the car, so I don't know how much room there is to shorten. This would be easier for those that don't have access to a welder.

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

I couldn't shorten the z bar because of where the arms came off of mine. The arms were out toward the end of the bar so I could only grind a bit off which wasn't enough. I think I sortened the ball stud by about a half inch IIRC.

gheatly69

I went and pulled the z-bar off my car. I have an easy 1/2-inch I could cut off the end. I have about 3/4-inch total between the end and where the bar is welded.

Also, anyone tried Doug's swap headers (D3337)? Hooker swap headers (2288-1HKR) look identical to the Dougs. The #5 cylinder tube on the Doug's header stays in front of the #7 tube, so there should be no interference. I was worried about that #5 tube on the Edelbrock headers when I saw the pictures in the catalog.

Here is link to a pic of the Dougs headers on Summit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DOU-D3337/?rtype=10

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

I'm running the Hooker headers and the hooker swap plates. It was trial and error with my z bar/ball stud. It took several mock ups until I got it to work right. My time is free though so I didn't mind.

gheatly69

Thanks for the info 68RS. I ordered the Doug's Headers and the Doug's adapter plates today. I am going to order the Scoggin Dickey clutch ball pivot bracket and start with that. I have a Lakewood scatter shield I want to reuse, so that throws some additional uncertainty in the mix.

I have plenty of time too. Several hundred bucks worth of additional parts is at stake in getting the mechanical linkage to work.

3pedals

iTrader: (3)

I used Edelbrock headers, and 1" setback plates.My headers seem different than the 1's in the pic?? Tube #5 interferes on my headers. I cut tube #5 in 2 spots rotated the tube and welded it back together - really not that hard. linkage now clears.
for parts to fit the TKO, I used:
- the steel scattersheild I orriginally had on my big block minus the block plate
- Mcleod Aluminum +.200" flywheel, drilled for my long style clutch
- GM LS7 pilot bearing
- I welded a small tab onto the scattersheild to mount the pivot ball
- I cut, shortened, and re-welded the Z bar

SlvrSierra4.8

iTrader: (24)

bump for more info on this subject....

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

What info are u looking for?

SlvrSierra4.8

iTrader: (24)

Just went back and read your previous posts. Basically I am just looking for more options of parts that work w/ mech linkage. I am just trying to avoid the trial and error parts swapping that gets expensive, if there is a combo out there that is proven it would save me some headaches along the way. Every header manufacturer that makes a set of swap headers I have talked to has been clueless if there parts will clear a mechanical clutch setup, just seems odd that none of them have done the R&D..... So the hooker plates & headers worked w/out modification other than the ball stud mods you mentioned?

68 RS Convertible

iTrader: (1)

Yeah looks like from what everyone else is doing the z bar/ball stud combo is too long and needs to be shortened. looks like there are several different options to mount the ball stud, but they all involve some type of a home made plate affixed to the bell housing/block, or in my case both. I don't know of anyone that makes an off the shelf kit for any specific vehicle, though I have not been looking either. I think most of the kits are hydraulic kits. Looks like its a trial and error deal to make the mechanical linkage work. I know I mocked mine up several times to get it to work. good luck.

SlvrSierra4.8

iTrader: (24)

Had a chance to test fit the Doug's parts yet?