speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

LOL. I am not offended. Oh yes. I have also tried 3 different pushrod lengths to shut it up. All sound the same. I have to find a solution. It is very loud in the car. It is too loud to enjoy just cruising.

I hate the idea of pulling the heads to replace the lifters, but I really don't know of another solution.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

You used an aftermarket cam right? If so do you think they ground the base circle to a smaller diameter to allow for a higher lift? If so you will need a longer push rod than a 7.400" to make up for the smaller base circle. I had to go with 7.450" of course I have not run my car yet but went off of the cam grinders recommendations. Hopefully it is a question of push rod length and not a set of bad lifters. Your oil pressure is good right? Does it sound the same throughout the engine or is it in a certain area?

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I measured the base circle diameter with some dial calipers and found that the Comp XR275 measured 1.485" compared to the factory cams 1.550". This is a difference of .065". When divided by 2 I see that we get .0325" which would be the difference in lifter preload between the two on a given engine. The 7.4 pushrods are .015" longer than the factory 7.385" units so that means there is a net difference of .0175" between the factory setup and what I am running right now. I don't think 17 thousandths is a problem.

The oil pressure is around 25 pounds at an idle and hits 50 pounds by 3000 rpm when the engine is hot on my AutoMeter gauge.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

If I am correct which I am prolly not, I thought the LQ4's and LQ9's used a 7.400" long push rod. Let me re-state that, I know the LQ4 uses a 7.400" but not sure about the LQ9. Either way you are on the loose side of preload. I have read several articles on here and for what it is worth, they say to stay on this side of .100" and you should be fine. I guess it also depends on the valve springs you used to. Have you checked the preload with an indicator? Good luck on your fix I am sure it will be simple.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Actually, your LQ4 came with a 7.385" pushrod. 7.4" is just the common high performance replacement size to make up for the reduced base circle of most aftermarket camshafts. Take a pair of dial calipers or a mic to your factory pushrod.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I do not own a set of calipers over 6" at home and have no way of actually measuring them till I get to work. I just know what I have read. I know the guy that ground my cam suggested 7.450" and I am at .065" of preload. I checked it with an indicator. Either way you still have an issue with the length and/or the lifters. Hopefully it can resolved by the pushrods and all is well. Pulling heads to change lifters is not only a pain but gets costly if the head gaskets and bolts need to be changed. Good luck to ya and I wish you well. Can you call the manufacturer of the cam and get their suggestion?

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Hey nice job. Engine bay looks real classy. I think we drove our cars for the first time with the LS swap on the same day.

andrewss

iTrader: (1)

nice car speedtigger ,interesting build.When I changed the cam in my lq9 I measured the pushrods, and indeed they were only 7.385-7.389.So I went with manely 7.400, no problems yet after a 1/2 yr, and quite a 1/4 passes.

rojs234

iTrader: (5)

*Speedtigger*..at the risk of getting laughed off this forum, I'm going to tell you a story..bear with me. First of all, I don't know if your valvetrain noise is REALLY! REALLY! loud as in parts beating theirselves to pieces or just annoying loud. I have a different brand engine in the little red truck pictured in my avatar. It has a Comp flat tappet hydraulic cam with 230/237 @ .050and about .570 lift. It has double springs with 130lbs on the seat and 340 over the nose. When I first got it going several years ago it had a similar problem to yours...sounded like a solid lifter cam. Tried numerous lengths of pushrods and different pre-loads from .030 to the old super stock trick of just off the bottom of the plunger travel. Even changed lifters to what I thought was a better quality lifter. Nothing changed, but on the good side I kept checking and could not see any damage being done. Drove it like this for awhile. The cam manufacturers and magazines started talking about problems because the oil companies were gradually taking the EP additive (can't think of the name) out of all their oils. Since I had such high spring pressure, I thought I better do something. I had been running Mobile oil in it and I switched to a diesel oil by the name of Rotella because diesel oils still had the EP additive in them. I also added an additive sold by Hughes Engines which is an EP additive. To my great suprise, when I started and drove the truck, the lifter noise was GONE! Now I'm not telling you to go out and buy Rotella and Hughes additive, but before I spent the money and time tearing down and replacing lifters, I would explore a few other possibilities. Oh, by the way...I have the same oil and additive in my LS2 I described in my earlier post and it has no valvetrain noise. Ron

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

^ive heard the same about rotella, ron

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Well Ron, the next stop is replacing the lifters, so I see no harm is trying $20 worth of Rotella in there. I will let you know the results.

***Update***
Well, the heavier weight (15w-40) made the oil pressure go up about 5 lbs, but other than that, exact same noise. So, I guess it is lifters time.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Man I really hate to hear that. Have you decided on which lifters you will use? I have read thread after thread about Morel's, CTS-V's and stockers without any one conclusion. Let us know what you decide just in case we happen to run into the same issue. Thanks

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

the cts-vs are the same as ls7s/the newer gm ones, right?

im also interested to see how this turns out

(i saw one thread where a smaller diameter bore headgasket was used and the pistons were making contact with it making a similar noise, not sure if it applies... at all... but throwing it out there for the braintrust)

rojs234

iTrader: (5)

Well, since you went that far, you may want to try the additive....it's actually very good as a break in protection on new parts, and it's only like 6-7bucks. I'll tell you where to get it, but be forwarned...you're going onto the dark side. These guys build engines and sell parts for the brand that starts with an M. You can buy it or read about it here: www.hughesengines.com. Go to oils and chemicals and then additives and then click on the product for info. I've used this stuff a long time. It's good at protecting cylinder walls and piston skirts or anything from scuffing. Ron

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I was just going to get some LS7s. I did not want to re-invent the wheel though Mast Motorsports recommended the Caddy Racing lifters.

I would think the CTS-Vs are the same as I think all of the current LS lifters are now the same as the LS7s, but I don't want to confuse those with the CTS-Vs which are different.

LOL. I could not go Mopar. I am a professional and I don't think I could pull of the mullet or the Road Runner tattoo.

scatillac

iTrader: (12)

Some helpful documentation.......... http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/P...ookieSupport=1

rojs234

iTrader: (5)

Next, you'll be telling me my 9" rear axle is no good, because it's painted BLUE. Ron

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I can't do that because my cooling fan is out of a Taurus.

TurboLark

iTrader: (3)

So now that it's together, how does it sit compared to the lil 300? Could ya post a pic maybe?
Thanks

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Bout' the same. Maybe 1/2" or so lower in the front.