LQ4/T56 into my 69 Camaro
#1787
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You will love the power and reliability of the LS family! My car is at a whole different level with the current engine and supporting components. I still have a bunch of things I would like to do at this point but I am sort of focused in one direction right now. I want some low 7 passes on the engine if possible and then maybe a little spray.
Do you have a build thread started?
#1788
Teching In
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: HILTON,NY 14468
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Hello tsnow678, your photos shot great detail and quality of workmanship. This is exactly what i will do with this lq4 6 l i have just purchased. Please advise me what ecu and wiring harness you plan to use--price, who sell it, etc thanks don 585-352-1165. I'm doing a tube chassis for drag racing /street. Turbo 350/ brake/9 inch. Thanks don 585-352-1165
#1789
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Thanks Don! The PCM I used was from a 2000 Camaro LS1 and the wiring harness was built by Street and Sand Performance(SSP). I personally like Steve from SSP but there is some debate on whether or not he is reliable. He was one of the few people that stepped up and helped me diagnose an issue I had with my current engine. He did so with out any vested interest in the problem. All around a great guy! I bought the custom harness with the aviation loom and fuse block prewired in, PCM(re-flashed to my specs), and MAF for approximately $600-650. If that doesn't work out for you check with Alvin Anderson at PCM of NC. Alvin is real good with mail order tunes and can supply you with the correct PCM, wiring harness or what not. Sounds like you are putting together a fast ride. Have you started a build thread yet?
#1790
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I know it has been a while since my last update. I ran my car in the 1/8th on my everyday street tires and didn't fare so well. Coming out of the hole at idle really kills your 60 foot. I did manage to run a 7.89 @ 93mph. I know not too impressive but given the temps, track condition, and the use of street tires I felt like it was ok. I made up my mind that if I was going to run my slicks I would like to do so with a beefier rear end. I know there is much debate on how much power a 8.5" 10 bolt will hold. I really don't like the idea of the axles only being held in by the c-clips. And it is suggested not to run c-clip eliminators on the street. So my only options were either not to run at the track again or bite the bullet and build a 9" rear. Needless to say I chose to build the rear. I had purchased the 9" rear from a guy in Charlotte for $75 complete out of a 79 Ford F-100 4x4. Naturally it was too wide for my application but it was wide enough for me to cut it down to center the housing to the car. IIRC Ford offsets the housing by 2" and the pinion by 4" to allow for equal length axles. I measured this damn rear about 100 times, compared the results to the existing rear in the car, verified the correct parts were available to complete everything, etc. etc. Here are a series of pics from start to finish.
#1795
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
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I know it has been a while since my last update. I ran my car in the 1/8th on my everyday street tires and didn't fare so well. Coming out of the hole at idle really kills your 60 foot. I did manage to run a 7.89 @ 93mph. I know not too impressive but given the temps, track condition, and the use of street tires I felt like it was ok.
Lots of guys run as fast as 9 seconds with the 8.5". It is an underrated piece, but if I had a stick shift like you, I can see the appeal of the 9". I have to say though. By the time that 9" is actually done, you will have some coin in it for sure. Check out the 60 series complete rears from Strange. I think they are a real bargain.
#1799
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I purchased a set of rear disc bakes off of the S10 series trucks/blazers. I like the parking brake assemblies better than the Seville calipers like I had on the 10 bolt. In no way will the parking brake adjustment have any affect on the brake pedal height. I must say the brake pedal feels much better with the S10 setup. Here I am boring the ID to allow the axle bearing to slip through the backing plate and dust shield.
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Flush mount drain plug in place
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Grinding down the spacers that go between the axle bearing and the retaining plate. I left .040" so that the retainer would actually put a little tension on the outside bearing race.
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![](http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff394/tsnow678/DSCN1196_zpsc57e8048.jpg)
Flush mount drain plug in place
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![](http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff394/tsnow678/DSCN1201_zps7ecfec9e.jpg)
Grinding down the spacers that go between the axle bearing and the retaining plate. I left .040" so that the retainer would actually put a little tension on the outside bearing race.
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![](http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff394/tsnow678/DSCN1233_zps703e5d29.jpg)
#1800
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Yes! I have a slick 1-1/4" rd. 12L14 piece of material 5 foot long and the pucks for the center section along with the pucks for the housing ends. I was actually surprised as to how far out the housing was after the old ends were cut off. Not an easy task trying to straighten an axle tube that is .200" thick! I had to use some heat and gentle persuasion but she is dead nuts straight from end to end.