Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I am pondering replacing the 40 year old stock wiring in my 71 Cutlass while I do the engine swap; maybe even doing a new Classic Air AC kit at the same time if I have the dash apart. However, I'm pretty intimidated at what I could be getting myself into, since wiring isn't my forte (wouldn't it be nice to actually have one forte?). Several ??s.
1. If I do it, what is the absolute easiest, best harness out there to minimize the possibility of me screwing it up. Not interested in the cheapest, cuz my time is money--and I'm worried I could spend weeks trying to get the cheaper one to work.
2. If I pay someone to do it, what is a likely cost to do the install? Both hours and cost?
3. For those that have done it, can you give me your lessons learned--what would you do different?
4. Another poster is doing this w/his cuz of higher alternator output on our engines. Thoughts of whether that is overly cautious?

Thx!!

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

I've done several boats, cars, even houses, so here's my $0.02.
1. Check out this link, pretty good variety. Get the actual schematics of several before you order. Some basic ones skip little things like dash light fuse/wiring or separate fuel pump circuit. Almost all have wires labelled.
http://stores.ez2wire.com/StoreFront.bok
2. Tough to say, you'll still need to outline what circuits you'll need ahead of time, parts locations (ie trinary switch, fan controllers, ecu).
3. Plan your wiring VERY well. It's a PITA to try to mod a harness, add wires, etc after it's laid out, worse after it's in the car.
Use sub harnesses for dash, rear, etc.
Solder/shrink tube all connections or use molex/weatherpack connectors, no crimps.
Dont try to squeeze more circuits, relays, etc in the original fuse panel position. It wasn't worth the effort. With Classic Auto air, there's a ton of room in the dash.
Get more circuits/fuses than original, 20+.
4. If you're running dual electric fans through the original harness and fuse panel, that alone will max out the capacity of the old system. Without it, you'll need to wire the fans directly off the alternator.
200 amp alternators and 40 year old wiring with lots of mods, extra circuits, big stereos... rarely ends well.

sambooka

Unless you are going stock, I would suggest an aftermarket. Better wiring, move to relays, etc.

I used the painless 16 circuit universal. Could not have been easier. Everything is marked and ready to go.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

HOw long did it take you?

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

Buy a new stock M&H wiring harness. It is modern wire and you can add relays to power stuff like headlights, fuel pump etc. They do have options for their harnesses so maybe they can do something custom for you. Look at a modern cars wiring, if anything it is smaller than older cars. Also you are just powering light bulbs so what do you need? A vintage air kit comes with it's own wiring and a factory A/C setup has a separate harness as well.

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

http://www.wiringharness.com/PDFS/CU...ss_442_F85.pdf

Here is a link to the catalog.

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

I've got the Painless 60608 26 circuit/7 relay LS swap harness for my car. It wasn't cheap but looking at the kit I can see why it wasn't. Every wire is labeled on the insulation from the fuse block to the spot where it needs to go. The fuse block looks like a modern GM one. Comes with relays, flashers, connectors for your lights, grommets, everything.

Now if I just could ever get off my *** and get to work I may just be able to see how easy it is to install

oldngray

iTrader: (9)

This will not be an issue if you plan and take your time. Painless, American Autowire, Kwik, they are all good, and use the best quality wire. If it is cheap, check what wire they are supplying, check if switches are included, some do not supply them on their lower priced stuff.Solder and heat shrink for sure, use relays for your big loads, and MAKE your panel accessible, nothing worse than a panel that you can only see with a mirror, or laying on your back wrapped arond the steering wheel. The time to do it is going to be reflective on how detail oriented you are. Lastly, make sure of your grounds, if you do not have them correct or enough of them, you will be very sad.

neal64ss

iTrader: (1)

I used the EZ2wire harness in my 64 chevelle.

I studied factory wiring diagram, EZ2wire instructions, and everything I could find about adding headlight relays, upgrading to 10SI altenator, eliminating external voltage regulator, ect. for about a month before I started. It took me about a week to finish working on the install a few hours a day. The result was amazing, haven't had electrical gremlins since, used to have them on a regular basis.

borrone821

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but to those who went aftermarket harness, where did you mount the fuse panel?
i've got a 69 GTO convertible with a Kwik harness (it was like 250 and every wire function is stamped on the sheath.. very helpful) but am trying to figure out where to mount the fuses.
My old panel was mounted through the firewall and the new fuse panel won't really fit in its old spot. Any help and pics would be greatly appreciated

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

I just placed mine over the existing hole from the stock fuse block, and lined it up so I could use an existing screw hole; think I had to drill one.

oldngray

iTrader: (9)

This is a matter of choice and accessability, you will get a boatload of answers on "where", you can make a panel to cover a hole in the firewall. I mounted mine, hinged off the dash to the left of the steering column, the panel then fastens to the mating bracket i made on the firewall with a large finger nut i made with 1/4" threads. When building the system, it hangs even with the bottom of the dash, right in front of you as you kneel next to the car, and when complete , it will swing up with the fuse panel parrallel to the floor, above the level of the bottom of the dash and held there by said nut and bracket. This works great , have used this method seveal times, withgreat results, and no cramps from tring to see something under the dash and on the firewall.

olsparkey25

iTrader: (1)

Talk about bringing up an old thread! Anyway I purchased one for my 70el Camino a few years back and starting to do the mock-up now installed the SS dash, welded up the old fuse box hole in the firewall and like previously mentioned mounting the fuse panel between the clutch pedal and the emergency brake is not going to fit. I like the idea of the hinged panel folding down from the bottom of dash and back up out of the way. Now where to mount ecm the harness gives you 5 feet of harness from the Panel so under seat, above glovebox remove the pad for access or in the engine bay. It’s a nice harness and wasn’t cheap but it’s definitely a time saver being the original harness is Fifty years old and I’m mocking up a classic air colder evaporator. And a digital dash, so I have a lot of wiring just with that!

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

I used American Auto Wire in my '69 Chevelle! I run a Holley Dominator EFI for the engine control.

B52bombardier1

American Auto Wire "Classic Update" harness for the body of my 70 EC and I also used the original firewall hole. PSI Conversions for the engine harness to a 1999 LM7 truck motor with a 145 amp alternator. My stock 0411 PCM fits very nicely on top of my glove box and under the dash cap. Dakota Digital HDX gauges in a new SS dash carrier. Classic Auto Air A/C also for me and it won't require the back half of the glove box to be removed for you to fit in the Classic evaporator / heater core.

Rick