going to the dark side *engine is in*
i just dont want a tb thats bigger than the intake manifold... i found a great deal on the alt, water pump, tensioner and ac compressor so im getting that stuff tomorrow as well as the oil pan and wiring harness. maybe merv can teach me how to do the wiring harness instead of charging me to do it.
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thats an extra $200... by time i buy new rings, have it vatted, honed, and then him put in the bearings... ive got the tool at work took me 30 minutes to knock them out. cant be hard to install new ones. and i dont want anymore engine parts scattered out in my little work area.
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rods and pistons slid out nicely, little bit of blood shed, now time for the crankshaft to come out, so far all the bearings look excellent besides the cam bearings with smearing on them??? rough to the touch with tiny ***** of metal on them
What about just using a 1999 (?) crankshaft that had the longer length giving the same distance from the block face to the crank flange as the traditional chevrolet v8's??
Could I just use my LT1 t56 with the stock bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, hydraulics, etc.???
Either this is a great idea or I'm about to get shot down with a reason why.
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Verdad Gallardo I just had an idea hit me that seems so simple that there must be some reason it won't work or surely someone else would have mentioned it:
What about just using a 1999 (?) crankshaft that had the longer length giving the same distance from the block face to the crank flange as the traditional chevrolet v8's??
Could I just use my LT1 t56 with the stock bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, hydraulics, etc.???
Either this is a great idea or I'm about to get shot down with a reason why.
What about just using a 1999 (?) crankshaft that had the longer length giving the same distance from the block face to the crank flange as the traditional chevrolet v8's??
Could I just use my LT1 t56 with the stock bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, hydraulics, etc.???
Either this is a great idea or I'm about to get shot down with a reason why.
Anyone know for sure? I think it's worth looking into.
I think merv mentioned something about this while talking to me about building a 4l80e.
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finished tearing the engine down, pistons soaking in solvent, bearings marked for reference, noticed one bearing half on crank was starting to wear, number 5 cam bearing was trashed!
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im gonna go back tonight and hit the pistons with the wire wheel to clean them up real good. put mains on block torque down and deliver to machine shop tomorrow and hope its done monday evening so i can stab the cam and get stuff put back together.
merv: whats the threads on the ps hole i have to drill/tap
merv: whats the threads on the ps hole i have to drill/tap
What is it with LS engines and cam bearings/camshafts? I hear that alot of truck engines had camshafts replaced under warranty. There is a 4.8L in our shop that was replaced under warranty because of oil pressure issues. They tried alot of stuff to fix it before GM said replace the engine. I'd have to pay $300 for it....which seems alot for a 4.8 with issues (good used ones are under $500 usually) but I know it has a new set of LS7 lifters in it along with alot of other new parts.
Don't forget to inspect/clean the ring lands. They make a tool for it, but an old ring works pretty good too. I usually break one in half so it's easier to manage.
I've also heard alot about oil pump issues...ported stock oil pumps....LS6 oil pumps....etc, but I didn't file it to memory because I didn't have an LS engine at the time. Is this a problem area all of us LT1 guys doing the swap need to look into?
Also.....I don't think I would wire wheel the piston skirts if I were you. Maybe it wouldn't hurt anything, but when you are only talking a few thousandths piston to wall clearance, I wouldn't want to do anything to wear any off the skirts. I haven't looked at late model pistons, but I know most older stuff have little tiny ridges that help with oil control.
Don't forget to inspect/clean the ring lands. They make a tool for it, but an old ring works pretty good too. I usually break one in half so it's easier to manage.
I've also heard alot about oil pump issues...ported stock oil pumps....LS6 oil pumps....etc, but I didn't file it to memory because I didn't have an LS engine at the time. Is this a problem area all of us LT1 guys doing the swap need to look into?
Also.....I don't think I would wire wheel the piston skirts if I were you. Maybe it wouldn't hurt anything, but when you are only talking a few thousandths piston to wall clearance, I wouldn't want to do anything to wear any off the skirts. I haven't looked at late model pistons, but I know most older stuff have little tiny ridges that help with oil control.
Hmm....? I'm looking at a picture of both cranks side by side, I wonder if the older truck ones were .400in thicker to make up for that clearance?
Anyone know for sure? I think it's worth looking into.
I think merv mentioned something about this while talking to me about building a 4l80e.
Anyone know for sure? I think it's worth looking into.
I think merv mentioned something about this while talking to me about building a 4l80e.
I understand their reasons, but it's a shame too considering the amount of information they have available to them. I just had an idea hit me that seems so simple that there must be some reason it won't work or surely someone else would have mentioned it:
What about just using a 1999 (?) crankshaft that had the longer length giving the same distance from the block face to the crank flange as the traditional chevrolet v8's??
Could I just use my LT1 t56 with the stock bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, hydraulics, etc.???
Either this is a great idea or I'm about to get shot down with a reason why.
What about just using a 1999 (?) crankshaft that had the longer length giving the same distance from the block face to the crank flange as the traditional chevrolet v8's??
Could I just use my LT1 t56 with the stock bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, hydraulics, etc.???
Either this is a great idea or I'm about to get shot down with a reason why.
Hmm....? I'm looking at a picture of both cranks side by side, I wonder if the older truck ones were .400in thicker to make up for that clearance?
Anyone know for sure? I think it's worth looking into.
I think merv mentioned something about this while talking to me about building a 4l80e.
Anyone know for sure? I think it's worth looking into.
I think merv mentioned something about this while talking to me about building a 4l80e.
M10x1.5mm, it's for the Alternator, not the Power Steering.
I didn't realize the flywheels had a different bolt pattern. You are talking about the flywheel to crankshaft bolt pattern right?
Even still, you end up with a mess of clutch / throwout bearing issues. Not saying it can't be done, but it isn't practical. Best thing to do is find a Gen III T-56 and sell the Gen II to someone who can use it. Jason @ TDP (sponsor) sells them rebuilt outright for a reasonable price. I'll probably go with him on my next one.
