79 RX7 LS 5.3 Turbo. (8.93 @ 153mph)
01-13-2014, 01:30 PM
#105
Thats the plan! If I can keep the heads on it with those weird flat spots all over...
Made a thread about it here. So far I haven't heard of anyone else having this issue.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...k-surface.html
Made a thread about it here. So far I haven't heard of anyone else having this issue.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...k-surface.html
01-18-2014, 11:45 AM
#106
Sanded the deck a bit more with 400g, then 600g. Looks and feels the same. Threw on the LS9 gaskets and cheap china head studs and torqued it all down to 70ftlb with ARP lube.
This is the DOD delete kit for $28 from GM parts direct. The LS1 intake clears that oil port in the back just fine. I did not install plugs on the oil ports.
This is the DOD delete kit for $28 from GM parts direct. The LS1 intake clears that oil port in the back just fine. I did not install plugs on the oil ports.
I ordered headgaskets, oil pickup o rings, few other things so it was less painful.
01-27-2014, 01:42 PM
#114
Guess I never threw in my timing chain install pics. Went with a billet single roller Cloyes set. Much less slop than the OEM chain.
Went with a damper this time too...
Installed an LS7 waterpump. (more room for fan, lighter weight) I used a 3-jaw puller to get the 1/4" or so necessary to line up with the Ls1 crank pulley. This was actually a pain. The pulley was very stubborn, even with heat. Surprised I didn't damage it. I later found out there are 1/4" water pump spacers on ebay for $30.
Pulled out the heater fittings (alot easier if you get them nice and hot first I found out) and Retapped the heater lines.
Had a bit of a setback and managed to break my damn oilpan. I didn't pay attention to the aft crank seal cover and it was not level, so when I went to torque down the pan the aft ear snapped.
Welded it (had a friend do it, I don't own a tig). Ground it nice and flat again and slapped the pan on.
Instead of messing with adapters for the oil pressure I just drilled out the original sending unit and tapped it. Yes, I know it's not straight. Keeping the JY look.
Pretty much got this thing ready to drop in. Trans. is away being refreshed at the moment. Haven't decided if I'm redoing the hotside or not at this point.
Went with a damper this time too...
Installed an LS7 waterpump. (more room for fan, lighter weight) I used a 3-jaw puller to get the 1/4" or so necessary to line up with the Ls1 crank pulley. This was actually a pain. The pulley was very stubborn, even with heat. Surprised I didn't damage it. I later found out there are 1/4" water pump spacers on ebay for $30.
Pulled out the heater fittings (alot easier if you get them nice and hot first I found out) and Retapped the heater lines.
Had a bit of a setback and managed to break my damn oilpan. I didn't pay attention to the aft crank seal cover and it was not level, so when I went to torque down the pan the aft ear snapped.
Welded it (had a friend do it, I don't own a tig). Ground it nice and flat again and slapped the pan on.
Instead of messing with adapters for the oil pressure I just drilled out the original sending unit and tapped it. Yes, I know it's not straight. Keeping the JY look.
Pretty much got this thing ready to drop in. Trans. is away being refreshed at the moment. Haven't decided if I'm redoing the hotside or not at this point.
01-28-2014, 09:46 AM
#116
As far as ET goes I have no idea. I was happy with the power it was making. I just didn’t like leaving on the 2-step and t-brake at 24lbs to get it to 60’ worth a damn.
I hope going from 8.6:1 to 10:1 coupled with this new cam I can get some 1.3x 60’s without the 2-step. Maybe even off the foot brake. I think the 3.10 gear is killing me. It's so nice for cruising I don't want to give it up if I don't have to. I have a 3.25 gear I can swap in this year if I can't get my 60' reasonable with the current setup.
01-28-2014, 10:01 AM
#117
8 Second Club
Didn’t even know a breather in the valley cover was an option till now. The Gen3 stuff I ran last year was sealed as well. Maybe I can run an additional vent in the pan itself since I have an extra turbo drain line doing nothing. Figure I can run a long stand pipe vented with a few coils in it?
As far as ET goes I have no idea. I was happy with the power it was making. I just didn’t like leaving on the 2-step and t-brake at 24lbs to get it to 60’ worth a damn.
I hope going from 8.6:1 to 10:1 coupled with this new cam I can get some 1.3x 60’s without the 2-step. Maybe even off the foot brake. I think the 3.10 gear is killing me. It's so nice for cruising I don't want to give it up if I don't have to. I have a 3.25 gear I can swap in this year if I can't get my 60' reasonable with the current setup.
As far as ET goes I have no idea. I was happy with the power it was making. I just didn’t like leaving on the 2-step and t-brake at 24lbs to get it to 60’ worth a damn.
I hope going from 8.6:1 to 10:1 coupled with this new cam I can get some 1.3x 60’s without the 2-step. Maybe even off the foot brake. I think the 3.10 gear is killing me. It's so nice for cruising I don't want to give it up if I don't have to. I have a 3.25 gear I can swap in this year if I can't get my 60' reasonable with the current setup.
01-28-2014, 10:42 AM
#119
Installed an LS7 waterpump. (more room for fan, lighter weight) I used a 3-jaw puller to get the 1/4" or so necessary to line up with the Ls1 crank pulley. This was actually a pain. The pulley was very stubborn, even with heat. Surprised I didn't damage it. I later found out there are 1/4" water pump spacers on ebay for $30.
01-28-2014, 11:05 AM
#120
It did not include the thermostat housing and the LS7 thermo housing is slightly different than the LS1. They are very similar but the ls1 thermo “ears” are in the way. I broke off the ears on my LS1 neck and used it. If you want to run a thermo you’ll need and LS7 thermo housing.
Heres the LS3.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 01-28-2014 at 11:17 AM.