My 1963 Ford Econoline 4.8/6L80E build
#1
My 1963 Ford Econoline 4.8/6L80E build
I figure it's time to start a build thread for my Econoline Hippie Van.
I am 2 years in and still a very long way to go, but any progress is good right?
Here is what I started with:
After blasting:
And epoxy primer:
I am 2 years in and still a very long way to go, but any progress is good right?
Here is what I started with:
After blasting:
And epoxy primer:
Last edited by trozfan; 01-24-2015 at 08:00 AM.
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Forcefed86 (01-19-2021)
#3
Now on to the real thing. This was quite a task getting the engine installed. Lucky I had access to a lift or I couldn't have done it. The original engines are removed/installed through the side door, but I couldn't lift the engine high enough to get it in the doorway without the arm of the hoist hitting the top of the door opening. So it went in from the bottom on the stand, then lowered the van onto it. Then rolled the stand forward over the engine mounts.
Last edited by trozfan; 01-23-2015 at 04:56 PM.
#4
Now onto the wiring. I am using the factory BCM; gauges; tap up/tap down shifting; criuse control; etc. I got the dash harness from a salvage yard, the BCM off Ebay, and the column/wheel off Ebay. As you can see the column/wheel is not from the Express Van. It is from a Malibu, I wanted a smaller diameter wheel and this one just looks cooler than the van one. Another reason I wanted a Malibu wheel is for the tap up/tap down shifting for the 6L80E. Yes, the Express van has tap up/tap down but it's a little rocker switch on the end of the column shifter! Not very cool or user friendly. So the Malibu has nice paddle shifters that I will have to re-wire to the resistors that match the express van values.
Gauges are working. There are 2 items that stay lit and show up in the Drivers Information Center- Air bag, and Tire pressure warning. I have read that these can be deleted from the BCM? But I don't do any programming so we will have to see on that. Now I can just remove the l.e.d. for them in the gauges. That solves the lighted icon, but the text will still come up in the D.I.C. until you push one of the D.I.C. buttons to get it off that text and back to Odometer or whatever else you want to see.
Econoline LS factory gauges, BCM<br/>1961 1962 1963 1964 1965 1966 1967
Gauges are working. There are 2 items that stay lit and show up in the Drivers Information Center- Air bag, and Tire pressure warning. I have read that these can be deleted from the BCM? But I don't do any programming so we will have to see on that. Now I can just remove the l.e.d. for them in the gauges. That solves the lighted icon, but the text will still come up in the D.I.C. until you push one of the D.I.C. buttons to get it off that text and back to Odometer or whatever else you want to see.
Econoline LS factory gauges, BCM<br/>1961 1962 1963 1964 1965 1966 1967
Last edited by trozfan; 01-23-2015 at 04:42 PM.
#5
Rear framework:
I did a rear axle flip, so I have to make some suspension travel space. As the axle is now sitting on the frame. I cut out the entire rear floor to make the rear frame notch and structure for the gas tank and rear seat platform.
I bought a rear frame 'hump' from Alston and then modified it. I cut the bottom of each end off, and flipped them around and welded them in front and back of the hump to give it about 5 inches on each end that was parralel with the frame. The frame on the Econoline is tapered on both sides- wider on top than the bottom. So I added sides out of 4"x 1/8" plate steel to it that allowed me to slide it into the factory frame and weld my new tapered sides to the original frame.
Here is the finished rear frame/gas tank/seat platform structure:
The tank is from Tanks Inc. and is for a 1953-1954 Chevy. It is a fuel injection tank so it has the sump in the bottom of it.
I did a rear axle flip, so I have to make some suspension travel space. As the axle is now sitting on the frame. I cut out the entire rear floor to make the rear frame notch and structure for the gas tank and rear seat platform.
I bought a rear frame 'hump' from Alston and then modified it. I cut the bottom of each end off, and flipped them around and welded them in front and back of the hump to give it about 5 inches on each end that was parralel with the frame. The frame on the Econoline is tapered on both sides- wider on top than the bottom. So I added sides out of 4"x 1/8" plate steel to it that allowed me to slide it into the factory frame and weld my new tapered sides to the original frame.
Here is the finished rear frame/gas tank/seat platform structure:
The tank is from Tanks Inc. and is for a 1953-1954 Chevy. It is a fuel injection tank so it has the sump in the bottom of it.
Last edited by trozfan; 04-04-2022 at 01:36 PM.
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#10
Here is what the exterior looks like right now. The front will be MUCH lower. I still haven't decided if I am going to do a dropped axle or a Mustang II clip. 90% sure I am doing Mustang II. The original suspension/steering/brakes on this thing is a joke and I am going to be driving the heck out of this thing so it's got to be safe and reliable.It's got Boss 20" on back and 18" on front. Doing hidden hinges on all 6 doors (yuck!, tons of work). Has late model Corvette door handles on front where you reach around and push the sensor pad. I have notched the body similar to the Corvette so you can fit your hand in there.
1963 Econoline <br/>1962 1962 1964 1965 1966 1967
1963 Econoline <br/>1962 1962 1964 1965 1966 1967
Last edited by trozfan; 01-24-2015 at 08:04 AM.
#11
Front body mods:
Here is a shot of my planned front body mods. The grilles on these are ugly and the parking light corners don't thrill me either.
- Narrow the grille opening about 4 inches on both sides and round the corners.
- Cut out an air dam under the grille
- New parking light corners
- Small split bumpers at the corners
Here is a shot of my planned front body mods. The grilles on these are ugly and the parking light corners don't thrill me either.
- Narrow the grille opening about 4 inches on both sides and round the corners.
- Cut out an air dam under the grille
- New parking light corners
- Small split bumpers at the corners
Last edited by trozfan; 08-12-2013 at 06:37 PM.
#15
This thing is killer! Nice work so far, especially on those hinges. I wasn't sure you were going to be able to pull it off with that much curve in the front jamb, but looks like you got it. Keep up the good work, I'll be following along.
#18
Anyone that is doing all the wiring for not only the ECM/TCM, but also the BCM; gauges; steering wheel controls; paddle shifter; etc. knows how handy the original diagrams are! Best money spent- alldatadiy
Last edited by trozfan; 08-12-2013 at 06:42 PM.