Yeah, that seems to be the consensus is I just need a looser converter. But I drive it like a second daily. So I might just have to live with sh*t 60'.

 

Well I finally took my truck over to vocational school and got the Brick on rollers. First thing the teacher says to me is "this isn't a Joe **** strong dyno" and he was right. I expected maybe 280ish. Made 4 pulls. 250 was best it cranked out

First on ran it up to 6400 made like 230 and peak power was where I was shutting down.
So we kept making pulls until I got to 7k which is where my rev limiter is set and made 250.

This was a night performance tuning class and they use HPT, which was cool. They pulled Marks tune and took a look at it and said easily 30-40 more hp with tuning tweaks.

 

Truck basically being done for the season, I figured I would outline the tentative plans for next 5 months.

General:
Mild re-wire, I purchased a bussman fuse box with 10 mini fuse circuits and 5 mini relay.
This will be used for all non-factory items (gauges, obd2 ports, wideband, 12+power port etc)

Diagnose and fix my passenger side window channel/weatherstrip. Window comes out of track and is to tight for motor to push it up fully when it stays in track

Undercar:
Need some attention to correct a vibration I have been having lately. First is milling down the 5/16" spacers I started using on the rear. Past experiences have determined they usually have a ton of runout, which was obvious on dyno the other day unless the wheels are bent (doubtful)

Also need to buy shims, to correct what I recently measured as 0* D/S angle. reading tells me I need 4-6* on leaf spring application.

Planning on upgrading my original 84 u-joints to Spicer non-greasable HD joints

Potentially a adjustable tube trans crossmember for future trans swaps

Motor:
AND to the fun stuff. Planning to make this live up to its plates this year I hope.
Purchased so far 76mm One3 turbo.
80lb Deka injectors
Tial 38mm wastegate
Ebay intercooler.

Still need BOV, hot/coldside piping. HPTs, laptop. boost controller, turbo blanket/heat wraps, Plugs (BR7ES), 3 bar map

Also motor related, truck has always had a belt squeal coming off of WOT pulls. I believe its a balancer issue, comparing it to my Silverado it has a wobble. So it will be replaced with a Powerbond.

 

Had a little time to start piddling around. Did some cutoff wheel/sawzall surgery to mock up the intercooler.

I may still add back some plate to put a little structure back in it, even though it feels super solid still.

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Well. Been a touch over a month since an update.

Pretty exciting. Its been put on jackstands, and has leaked a bunch of trans fluid while sitting...lol


I have been slowing hammering out my wiring project. I added another junction box by battery, ran an 8 ga wire into cab to a relay which powers my new secondary fuse box with keyed ignition. That is finished.

For all my constant hot needs, I just used another factory stud junction. So truck still runs, all I need to do is either reinstall my gauges the way I had them. Or make some type of mount system to hold them behind the factory bezel. I want to buy all new matching gauges, and in bigger size 2 5/8" which I can make fit in bezel. But I don't have $500+ to spend on gauges right now.


So I wasn't going to even start messing with anything turbo related until wiring was done and I could start the truck and make sure everything was correct. So now that is done.

I pulled my exhaust/manifolds and started some mock up. I have truck/GTO/TBSS/and F-body manifolds. I tried them all, and didn't like the way any of them looked and would have to route a crossover. So I have always known in the back of my mind I wanted a log style passenger mani so I could do an under truck crossover, making the install a ton cleaner looking.

So after talking with a buddy, we decided to order materials to build what I want. So earlier this week I've ordered 90% of my parts needed to build my entire hot side and also cold side. basically all I still need to order is a blowoff valve.

So as of now, im waiting on parts to come in. I hope next weekend to start fabricating my manifold.


Basically the style manifold I want to build.

 

Pretty neat truck. Wasn't aware you had it. So you taking this or the s-10 on power tour?

 

BOTH??? lol

My tentative plan is S-10 on first 2 legs (champaign-STL) then C-10 to Memphis and back. Provided the C-10 runs, and I can swap my credentials between vehicles.

 

Thought I had posted this... little tire killing before swapping to DRs

 

dont stop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Damn nice build. keep up the good work man.

 

Thanks.

Hope it all comes together.

 

Well I got some essential parts in yesterday. So I started mockup.

Using Sch 40 pipe, because #1 I can't weld stainless at home, and its expensive. #2 I couldn't find thinner mild steel beside 14 ga. Which I don't think will support weight of a turbo. DOM is also out of my price range

I've caught flack already about my choice of materials, but its in my budget, I can weld/fab it on my own. And I think it will hold up ok with the anticipated boost levels.

Anyway, I got my 2.5" main pipe cut to close to correct length. Went to tack on the 90 to turbo, and of course out of welding gas.... so cut my evening short. After taking a look at where everything was gonna end up. I will need to come up with some type of hardline extension for heater hoses from w/p, they will be in melting range. Also my expected angle of the 1.5" 90* pipe off head really needs to almost be pointing towards the front of the truck to keep log off the frame. That's gonna be a pain to trim

So after I ran out of welding gas, I figured I would work on some cold side stuff since I had that also. Got intercooler to TB done. I'm gonna have a buddy tig the piece together in the middle to eliminate the middle silicone connector.








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Well, both Saturday and Sunday spent mostly in the garage, I'm fairly happy with total work completed.

Today I finished the fab work on the manifold. Got it all tacked together, having a buddy plasma the holes in the log sometime this week. Then it will be sent to another buddy for final TIG. Then to sandblaster.

After I got the manifold finished, I decided to bolt the turbo on and start on the crossover. I got 70% done. I got all 3 bungs for Oxygen sensors and Wideband installed, got the driverside flange and bend and under truck. I need another mandrel 90 to finish it up.

I began the downpipe, Got the first piece cut and V-band flange tacked on to mock up. I may remove my blower box before I go any further on that.













Gonna need a solution for the coolant sensor

 

Spent about an hour or so in garage last night. Got the Wastegate hole drilled and blow down tube cut and welded to its flange.

Send my manifold to get the holes for the log to 90's plasma cut. Once it comes back, then it can be final tig'd. Then sandblasted.

 

Looking for some coolant temp sensor relocation ideas.


My rear passenger head houses the OE sensor, and it will contact my manifold, My port in front driver head houses my Autometer gauge sender.

Wondering if I used a 90* elbow if #1 the sensor would even fit #2 if it would be accurate since it wouldn't be in direct path of coolant flow.

Or any other water jacket ports that I haven't considered?

I have seen housings that you can add sensors in a heater hose... which is an option, Not an option that I like.

Suggestions???

 

I would just drill and tap the water pump and call it a day with your sensor issue. My factory sending unit is still in the driverside head, my sending unit for the aftermarket gauge is tapped into the water pump.

 

That's been considered as well... Might be the cheapest/easiest.

 

This may not work, but it might. What if the whole log moved forward such that the rear most tube merged into the elbow instead of the log? That should move it forward enough to clear the sensor. Might not clear the spark plug and wire though.

 

I wouldnt do that as it may not be that accurate. I would just do a 90 on the port and run the sensor.in.that. may be slightly off due to stalling of the coolant in that cavity but heat transfer should be consistent.

 

Its as far forward as I could get it.

And the manifold has already gotten the holes plasma cut. So modding the manifold is off the table.