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New Hooker 1st-gen/Nova swap parts info

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Old 10-13-2014, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
Don't be overly concerned with the position of your subframe when taking your engine inclination reading as it is only a baseline point of reference to get you started. Your engine would function at 20 degrees down angle so you should understand the main point of your focus should merely be to optimize your U-joint working angles, which need to be at least 1/2 a degree, less than 3 degrees each (the closer you can get to 1/2 a degree the better) and the same to one another within 1/2 a degree also unless you're setting up a leaf spring car for racing. Leaf spring cars set up for racing typically run a few extra degrees of pinion down angle to compensate for spring wrap under acceleration.
Ok Todd will keep that in mind also. Was under the car over the weekend looking at what I can plan for my crossmember and I came up with something. Have a few question I thought I might ask, plan on using 1"x2" rectangular tubing and what thickness would you recommend at minimum and 1/4 angle iron to attach to subframe. Looks like it will tuck up nicely but now need to get material. Thanks Todd
Old 10-14-2014, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by kiquee
Ok Todd will keep that in mind also. Was under the car over the weekend looking at what I can plan for my crossmember and I came up with something. Have a few question I thought I might ask, plan on using 1"x2" rectangular tubing and what thickness would you recommend at minimum and 1/4 angle iron to attach to subframe. Looks like it will tuck up nicely but now need to get material. Thanks Todd
I don't know what you have in mind conceptually or which way you plan to orientate the 1" x 2" tubing, so that makes giving you a recommendation difficult. In general, I wouldn't use anything less than .120" wall tubing if you are using typical low carbon steel. That is assuming you are crossing the span with a straight non-cantilevered beam design.
Old 10-14-2014, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
I don't know what you have in mind conceptually or which way you plan to orientate the 1" x 2" tubing, so that makes giving you a recommendation difficult. In general, I wouldn't use anything less than .120" wall tubing if you are using typical low carbon steel. That is assuming you are crossing the span with a straight non-cantilevered beam design.
Yes Todd I am spanning straight across, using a few 45 deg angles to tuck up to floor. Then back down & welded to my 3/16 - 2 x 3 angle iron which will be bolted to the bottom of subframe using 7/16 or greater bolts thru frame. How much clearance should I allow for trans travel upward, I'm using the stock rubber trans mount. I have to trim some of the original cross bracing above end of trans and then reinforce area for an about 1-3/8" clearance just in case of movement upward. Also have to modify trans tunnel for driveshaft for clearance also. Appreciate your insight in this little but touchy project. Thank you.
Old 10-14-2014, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by kiquee
Yes Todd I am spanning straight across, using a few 45 deg angles to tuck up to floor. Then back down & welded to my 3/16 - 2 x 3 angle iron which will be bolted to the bottom of subframe using 7/16 or greater bolts thru frame. How much clearance should I allow for trans travel upward, I'm using the stock rubber trans mount. I have to trim some of the original cross bracing above end of trans and then reinforce area for an about 1-3/8" clearance just in case of movement upward. Also have to modify trans tunnel for driveshaft for clearance also. Appreciate your insight in this little but touchy project. Thank you.
If you are using the Hooker 1st-gen F-body/ 3rd-gen Nova LS engine swap brackets, you won't have to cut any part of the car/body to install the 4L80 at an optimized angle (I've already done it). If you are using some type of swap plate engine mount set-up, you may want to consider switching to the Hooker brackets to save yourself a lot of grief, aggravation, time and money. If you are sold on cutting up your floor, then my advice is to get the engine and trans in the car at the height you want them at and just build the crossmember up to the mount; there is no need to allow for extra space above the trans if you measure and set your inclination/U-joint working angles before you start building the crossmember.
Old 10-14-2014, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
If you are using the Hooker 1st-gen F-body/ 3rd-gen Nova LS engine swap brackets, you won't have to cut any part of the car/body to install the 4L80 at an optimized angle (I've already done it). If you are using some type of swap plate engine mount set-up, you may want to consider switching to the Hooker brackets to save yourself a lot of grief, aggravation, time and money. If you are sold on cutting up your floor, then my advice is to get the engine and trans in the car at the height you want them at and just build the crossmember up to the mount; there is no need to allow for extra space above the trans if you measure and set your inclination/U-joint working angles before you start building the crossmember.
Yes I am using Hooker 1st-gen F-body/ 3rd-gen Nova LS engine swap brackets & headers, but my 2009 4L80E to get it around 3-3.5 deg it was hitting the trans tunnel a lot. Don't mind cutting it up, makes for a better fit and access to it. Right know my engine drivetrain angle is at 3 deg down and pinion I can set also at 1-3 deg up too. The trans end is about 3/8" from hitting the top tunnel brace now where I have it sitting, but should settle down when weight is on the new crossmember cause of rubber mount. Just don't want the trans moving up and hitting it when accelerating hard out of a turn or something like hard launches. As for driveshaft, my engine and trans came complete with matching driveshaft which is 4" dia, 1350 series joints and just needs to be shortening. That's why I need room in the tunnel lol, cuts down cost on new driveshaft. Doing all the work myself and have nothing but time I will get on it this weekend and let you know how it comes out. Thanks
Old 10-14-2014, 10:33 AM
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By the way Todd here is the link to my build,

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/104355-1971-Nova-Build.
Old 10-26-2014, 12:49 AM
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We'll I've finished up my trans crossmember for 4L80E in my Nova, it's not the best engineered but I think it will do just fine. Want to thank Todd for answering all my questions and giving me good info. Thanks.





Old 10-26-2014, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by kiquee
We'll I've finished up my trans crossmember for 4L80E in my Nova, it's not the best engineered but I think it will do just fine. Want to thank Todd for answering all my questions and giving me good info. Thanks.





Nice work, that should serve you just fine. You were fortunate to have the higher floor pan of the Nova working in your favor; the F-body floor is pancaked down on top of the subframe and doesn't provide the same freedom of space to work in. That constraint is what created the need for the considerable design effort behind the Hooker 4L80 crossmember for these applications that I'll soon be previewing here and be releasing in the near future. The only advice I would have lent to your design efforts up-front would have been to make the unit a two-piece design so your mounting angles could have been located on top of the subframe and the mounting holes drilled through the side walls of the subframe.
Old 11-03-2014, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
Nice work, that should serve you just fine. You were fortunate to have the higher floor pan of the Nova working in your favor; the F-body floor is pancaked down on top of the subframe and doesn't provide the same freedom of space to work in. That constraint is what created the need for the considerable design effort behind the Hooker 4L80 crossmember for these applications that I'll soon be previewing here and be releasing in the near future. The only advice I would have lent to your design efforts up-front would have been to make the unit a two-piece design so your mounting angles could have been located on top of the subframe and the mounting holes drilled through the side walls of the subframe.
Glad its being released soon.

Great work kiquee!

Last edited by BlackHD; 11-03-2014 at 01:49 PM.
Old 11-03-2014, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackHD
Glad its being released soon.

Great work kiquee!
Thanks BlackHD. Came out ok and will serve its purpose.
Old 11-11-2014, 02:00 PM
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Any run a low mount a/c compressor setup yet with these mounts? I thought I remember seeing someone had run a CTS-V compressor or alternator one of the two.
Old 12-15-2014, 10:56 AM
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Anyone low mount an A/C compressor with these mounts?
Old 12-15-2014, 10:40 PM
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Is there room to mount an ac compressor down there?
Old 12-29-2014, 10:13 PM
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Hey Todd any firm date when these crossmember's will be ready to ship? I have a friend in Australia waiting to order one?
Old 01-05-2015, 11:09 AM
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Any idea how far forward this moves the motor in comparison to the stock mounts?
Old 01-05-2015, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by cwylie
Any idea how far forward this moves the motor in comparison to the stock mounts?
I can't give you a discrete measurement from that standpoint as the development vehicle used was delivered without the original engine or transmission in place from which a reference point would have been established. When an LS engine is installed using the Hooker engine brackets, the machined surface at the front of the engine block sits 1/2" behind the front wall of the engine crossmember and the rear surface of the right side cylinder head is approximately 1-1/2" from the firewall.
Old 04-02-2015, 06:43 PM
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Todd

You mentioned in another post that using the F-body low mount alternator with these mounts requires notching the crossmember. Do you (or anyone that has done it) have a photo of the location, shape and depth of the required notch?

Thanks
Old 04-02-2015, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by GonHuntin
Todd

You mentioned in another post that using the F-body low mount alternator with these mounts requires notching the crossmember. Do you (or anyone that has done it) have a photo of the location, shape and depth of the required notch?

Thanks
I don't, as I attempted to install the F-body alternator and stopped once it became appearant that notching would be needed to make it happen.
Old 01-13-2016, 02:54 PM
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Just bought my 12618HKR engine mounts and look forward to installing them in my 68 Camaro. I will be running the fbody accessories, so I can post some pictures of the notch and how large/small the notch has to be.
Old 01-13-2016, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a
Just bought my 12618HKR engine mounts and look forward to installing them in my 68 Camaro. I will be running the fbody accessories, so I can post some pictures of the notch and how large/small the notch has to be.
I did mine similar to post 20 in this thread, but I used 2 flat pieces instead of the one curved plate. I have an alternator mounted, but no a/c compressor. I did notch both sides so hopefully when the time comes, I can run a low mount compressor. I don't think even with notching you'll be able to use the f-body compressor mount.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...8-74-nova.html


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