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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 08:30 PM
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Default a-body swap questions/my build

Doing a swap on my 1970 Monte Carlo. I originally had a zz454 create motor that had a few things done to it plus a t400 trans. Sold that setup a few years ago and now it's time to get it back driving again. I'm looking at a l92/6l80e combo out of a 2013 truck. What mounts do you guys suggest for the engine? I was looking at these:
http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...oducts_id=1372

Then my big question was about the trans, has anyone successfully gotten a 6l80e to fit with minor mods into a a-body? I've read the a-body section but there's nothing about this plus I googled it but never found anything like my car, maybe a few 60's cars with this trans but that's it. Need some good info before I give the guy the ok on getting this engine combo.

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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 02:21 AM
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I used Dirty Dingo's Double-D mounts set in the original bellhousing position, but this was in a '66 El Camino http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.ph...=1_206_305_335 Probably going to be a big transmission and some work might need to be done to make it fit nice. It's only metal right?
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 07:58 AM
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Had to cut my new floor to get a 4l60 in my 68 firebird.
Attached Thumbnails a-body swap questions-trans-tunnel-001.jpg   a-body swap questions-trans-tunnel-003.jpg  
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 08:20 AM
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I think you will have to cut the floor, regardless of whose mounts you choose. On my 70 El Camino, the 4L60e was too wide and too tall. They seem to be "fatter" behind the bell housing area. The first thing that hit was the cooling line fittings. Thought I had that figured out, but the further I raised the trans to get a good driveline angle, the worse it got. I kept cutting pieces of floor out until I got a decent angle, then welded in sheet metal from Lowe's to cover back up. Ended up all the way past the back of the tranny by the time I was done. Used poster board as template to cut 4 different pieces of sheet metal.
If there had been a way to move the engine forward by a couple of inches, it would have fit nicely. The problem there is that the oil pan sump is already (practically) right up against the "K" member, so no forward room to move. It would have taken a custom oil pan ($$$) or a dry sump set-up (even more $$$) to make all of that work. Cutting the floor was the best option for me.
Attached Thumbnails a-body swap questions-img_0283.jpg   a-body swap questions-img_0284.jpg  
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 09:08 AM
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I have a ly6 and 2004r in my 64 chevelle , I watch most of the a-body specific threads on this board as I have more than one chevelle ,and have plans for future swaps . From what I have seen you will have to cut and fabricate a transmission tunnel ,, I think you can use your existing cross member , and just move it rearward , and cut your driveshaft down some . Pick your tire diameter and rear gear ratio before you send out your computer for a reflash , as the tuner will need to know these things to set the vss , should be a bombproof combination

I used holley swap mounts , and a muscle car pan [had to cut front crossmember] , holley has some really nice new items for swaps ,pans ,and mounts , very happy with their accessory drives also
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by bdr66
I used Dirty Dingo's Double-D mounts set in the original bellhousing position, but this was in a '66 El Camino http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.ph...=1_206_305_335 Probably going to be a big transmission and some work might need to be done to make it fit nice. It's only metal right?
looks like the double d mount might allow more room....and I'm guessing the more room the better
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Kingstir
I think you will have to cut the floor, regardless of whose mounts you choose. On my 70 El Camino, the 4L60e was too wide and too tall. They seem to be "fatter" behind the bell housing area. The first thing that hit was the cooling line fittings. Thought I had that figured out, but the further I raised the trans to get a good driveline angle, the worse it got. I kept cutting pieces of floor out until I got a decent angle, then welded in sheet metal from Lowe's to cover back up. Ended up all the way past the back of the tranny by the time I was done. Used poster board as template to cut 4 different pieces of sheet metal.
If there had been a way to move the engine forward by a couple of inches, it would have fit nicely. The problem there is that the oil pan sump is already (practically) right up against the "K" member, so no forward room to move. It would have taken a custom oil pan ($$$) or a dry sump set-up (even more $$$) to make all of that work. Cutting the floor was the best option for me.
Your car is basically the same same mine frame wise so that has me worried. I was really trying to not to cut anything but sneak it in. You said the sump was almost hitting the frame, was your sump in the front or rear of the pan?
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 10:10 AM
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Does anyone have a 6l80e dimensions or the 4l80e like length and width at different spots on the case? Need to compare them to a stock t400 and see how far off things are. I'm going to try my hardest not to cut the car up as nothing on the car has been tuned or cut ever. Like to stay that way...hopefully
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 12:33 PM
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Mine is a rear sump (Mast Motorsports) pan. That one or a Holley pan is the way to go. Front sump would land right on top of the K member. I think you could get it in there without cutting, just not sure what you would have for a down angle at the back of the trans. There is another battle at the front of the oil pan trying to keep the inner tie rod ends from bumping it at full turn.
Lots of this will be seeing where things fall out as you move forward. I positioned things all over the place when I was trying to mount the engine.
It ended up being the best bet to cut it open.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 04:21 PM
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Good to know, I'm trying to get some specs on the 6l80 vs the 4l80 to my original t400
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 08:54 AM
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If I decide to go with the L92 motor but use a 4L80e instead, will I have any issue's with the newer controller working on the older trans?
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 09:10 PM
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Little update on this build. Ended up getting a L96 and a 6l90e w/48k. Trans came with the motor so had to get it but might sell it to get a 4l80e. So being this is a few years old now is their any better oil pans to get out that are better? Or would a fbody pan fit? Already bought the dirty dingo adjustable mounts so set their but want to order the oil pan asap
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 09:36 PM
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Here's some pics of the drivetran and one shot of the cars progress
Attached Thumbnails a-body swap questions-wp_20160107_16_20_54_pro-1.jpg   a-body swap questions-wp_20160107_16_21_03_pro-1.jpg  

Last edited by monte0; Jan 11, 2016 at 08:55 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2016 | 10:05 AM
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I'm just getting my l76 with a 6l80e into my 65 gto and there is no way to get that tranny up above the frame rails without removing the entire tunnel.the output shaft will be above the floor so the tunnel has to be raised almost all the way to the back seat.This is providing you set your motor at about 3 degrees and my transmission came out of a G8 so it has a shallow oil pan. It can be done but it's a lot of cutting.
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Old Jan 10, 2016 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by monte0
...So being this is a few years old now is their any better oil pans to get out that are better? Or would a fbody pan fit? Already bought the dirty dingo adjustable mounts so set their but want to order the oil pan asap
Use the new Holley mount system...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...m-preview.html

Andrew
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Old Jan 10, 2016 | 09:25 PM
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What's the plus and minuses of going with the CTS-V pan kit, chevrolet Performance 19212593 pan kit (is this basiclly a LH8?) and the Hooker kit?
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Old Jan 10, 2016 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by monte0
What's the plus and minuses of going with the CTS-V pan kit, chevrolet Performance 19212593 pan kit (is this basiclly a LH8?) and the Hooker kit?

I don't know what muscle car GM's "LS muscle car pan kit" fits...but it hung way to low on my 72 Chevelle wagon...I went with the F-body pan on mine.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 11:51 AM
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Don't use the GM muscle car pan...it will hang too far below the crossmember. I was able to get a 4l80e in my 77 a-body with stock cross member and no floor beating. I don't know much different your a-body is, but I think its minimal.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nam-build.html
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 12:06 PM
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Finally another Monte Carlo swap. I have a 71 im doing. I am using the GM pan for now and it does hang low but not so low that I can't use it.




I used so these from summit for my mounts and they worked perfect.

The 4L60e fits perfectly although I am thinking im going to switch to a 700r4 for the speedometer.

I have more pictures if needed.
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Old Jan 11, 2016 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BoozrCruzr
Don't use the GM muscle car pan...it will hang too far below the crossmember. I was able to get a 4l80e in my 77 a-body with stock cross member and no floor beating. I don't know much different your a-body is, but I think its minimal.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nam-build.html
Nice build! ..I'm starting to lean more towards the CTS-V pan just cause it seems to fit better on a lot of people's builds and doesn't have the low sump issue. I've got the dirty dingo adjustable mounts and I bought short GM mounts to keep the engine low to the frame but I can still raise it if needed but allows a lot of adjustablity. I'm still up in the air too on putting the 6L90E in my car cause I'd have to cut the tunnel and such and I don't have welding experience or fab work experience either.
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