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anywho. i got some pics of the headers installed! once i get these water lines figured out and the rest of the fluids primed and filled up ill be ready to start up!!
Cool build I read something where you said you did not want red MSD wires for the plugs
Also how long ago did you buy the O2? You have 1 month to return no ?s asked. If you are a Prime member just call or chat and cry the will take it back.
you absolutely have to move those brake lines away from the headers. The wrap is a good idea but no way would I risk what you have there. Move them up above the frame rail and I would strongly consider a sheet metal sheild.
What is the ground clearance like with those headers? That is the killer with long tubes on a zed.
I sure wish my JTR headers had as much plug wire clearance as yours. Nice job there.
Cool build I read something where you said you did not want red MSD wires for the plugs
Also how long ago did you buy the O2? You have 1 month to return no ?s asked. If you are a Prime member just call or chat and cry the will take it back.
a while ago. probably around the beginning of summer. i already sold them on ebay for 30 bucks minus 6 bucks for shipping only paid a little over 30 for them anyways.
and those are 32 dollar red ac delco cables
Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
you absolutely have to move those brake lines away from the headers. The wrap is a good idea but no way would I risk what you have there. Move them up above the frame rail and I would strongly consider a sheet metal sheild.
What is the ground clearance like with those headers? That is the killer with long tubes on a zed.
I sure wish my JTR headers had as much plug wire clearance as yours. Nice job there.
the longtubes are above the frame rails. so the frame will hit before headers touch the ground. and yea i might have to move those brake lines. might just go ahead and replace them all with new braided stainless lines to clean everything up and have some nice new solid lines in there. need to overhaul all the brakes anyways. toyota 4x4 calipers and maxima rotors and that whole jazz. i just wanna get the damn thing runnin first! lol its been taking way too long
Got the engine bay just about complete. Gotta get some spacers and longer screws to drop the radiator down a little bit. The cap touches the hood when it closes down. Other than that, the engine bay is complete. I may end up eventually getting a larger fan but for now i have a 10" that was given to me. Just gotta fill up fluids, bleed the clutch and make sure my wiring is solid before i do a final check on everything for startup!
Anybody have an extra shift lever layin around i can have or buy off of you?
Great build , I would move the air filter away from the fan. I made same mistake and ecm pulled timing and added fuel to try and compensate for high air temps. Once I moved car was so much faster
Great build , I would move the air filter away from the fan. I made same mistake and ecm pulled timing and added fuel to try and compensate for high air temps. Once I moved car was so much faster
interesting, ill have to find some rubber bends and 3.5 inch pipe to get it further over in that corner. might make a little aluminum heat shield too..
thanks!
Got my intake fixed! Tach gauge mounted, not completely wired up yet, gotta wire in the resister so it reads correctly. got my radiator overflow mounted, need a few more feet of tubing to connect it to the existing leftover braided stainless i threw on there. Just need to make money faster to buy my speedo and mount that in there and finish wiring and im ready to fill fluids, do a final check over and cank her up for the first time!!!!
help!! i got a no start for the first start up attempt
alright, need some help fellas (and ladies).
iv got a no start issue
lets start with a base explaination.
i shoved into a 76 datsun a 98 ls1 with a 99+ harness on it, with a 99 computer (better be tuned right) i had a shop in raleigh nc called mayhem motorsports tune it for startup so i can get it on a trailer and take it to get dyno tuned. (pretty reputable around here)
i have a brand new psi standalone harness-plug n play essentially
the engine has been fully ran through, rebuilt, btr valvesprings/retainers/trunion bearing kit, and a big *** cam. long tubes, air intake, not worried about the build quality. it was done right, has a warranty.
all the sensors and such were in the engine when i bought it second hand with a spun bearing (****** ******* sold it to me with a spun bearing). so i may have a bad sensor somewhere IDK
im not sure what pressure, i have a fuel rail mounted pressure gauge in the mail, new plugs (since i ripped one apart trying to get them off to test for spark-> which i do have spark) but i do know i have fuel at the rail. its a basic fuel setup as well, inline walbro behind a corvette inline regulator, 6an lines from the fuel cell all the way to the factory rail.
-i have spark
-if i didnt have air id be the worst mechanic/builder in the universe
-i can see fuel being returned back into the tank from the regulator when i turn on the fuel pump and the engines not started and i have fuel at the rail. so i will know what pressure at the rail when i get my fuel pressure gauge in the mail and on this weekend
-i dont have any check engine lights (not yet)
-it wants to make a tiny little pop noise after i turn on the power to the computer and try to start it for the first time. turn everything off, turn it back on, try to start, makes a little pop noise then continues to roll over and over not starting
-idiot light is on while ignition is on but engine is off
-psi harness red wire is on during ignition and cranking
what ive come down to after doing research for hours for the past 4 nights is that
-its either nasty injectors that have been sitting on an open fuel rail exposed to ambient air for over a year
-or some type of miscommunication between the ecm and the crank/cam sensors
it seems like im not getting fuel in the cylinder. after trying to start it a few times and turning the computer off and on and waiting then trying again. i dont smell any fuel the entire time. leads me to believe im not spittin fuel through the injectors. since thats something i can do for free im gonna pull the rail and injectors and see if theyre firing when i go back to work on it this weekend, also gonna check my fuel pressure at the rail while im at it.
Have you tried spraying something combustible into the intake while cranking to see if it will catch? That would show it to be a fuel issue. Do you have a scanner where you can watch the crank and cam signals while you are turning it over?
Pretty easy to hook a 9V battery up to an injector and listen for clicks to see if it is totally gummed up or not. Not much more work to pull one out, turn it on with the 9V battery than spray carb cleaner through it to see if it is clean.
Hard to imagine all injectors being so gummed up that it doesn't at least try to start.
Have you tried spraying something combustible into the intake while cranking to see if it will catch? That would show it to be a fuel issue. Do you have a scanner where you can watch the crank and cam signals while you are turning it over?
havnt tried start fluid in there yet.. i know i have spark which leads me to believe its probably a fuel problem. i just got a cute little liquid filled fuel pressure gauge im gonna stick next to the rail to check pressure up there and also a new set of msd wires to make sure i have good spark instead of those **** ones that broke when i pulled off a wire last weekend.
i do have a scanner, im not sure if its advanced enough to look at cam and crank signals though. i do want to check and make sure i actually plugged in that crank sensor when i shoved the starter up in there while installing the header (since it was so tight in there i had to do both at the same time, might have forgot to plug in crank wire, which could totally explain everything)
Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
Pretty easy to hook a 9V battery up to an injector and listen for clicks to see if it is totally gummed up or not. Not much more work to pull one out, turn it on with the 9V battery than spray carb cleaner through it to see if it is clean.
Hard to imagine all injectors being so gummed up that it doesn't at least try to start.
yea thats what i was thinkin, strange that all 8 injectors would be clogged up like that, but ya never know. iv seen some crazy **** happen on cars. maybe even a wasps nest up in my fuel rail or some **** who knows. if it comes down to havin to take off the rail and inspect the rail and injectors ill try that as last resort. i dont want to fry an injector then have to get another set of um!
bought some injectors from a guy on here. turns out they were 26lb'ers instead of 28lb'ers, sounds like it was an honest mistake, so im sending them back to him. while i had the 28lb'ers out i tested them and sprayed cleaner through them and they seemed to work, so it looks like its either a computer problem or a sensor problem. i sprayed some starter fluid in the manifold and it fired right up till all the starter fluid evaporated, so i know for certain its an injector problem.
gonna have someone check the computer tune, seems like either the vats arnt turned off or im not getting a cam or crank sensor signal... pulled the ecm and am gonna have it looked at by a different shop than who i bought it from, who did the simple tune.
anyone else have any suggestions? any other reasons why the injectors wouldnt fire?
Unplug all your injectors, Turn your key to the run position and check that you have 12+V to each injector. If your do that means the pink wires are ok. Next, Leave the multimeter plugged into an injector and try to start the engine, you should have 12+V. Some cars, I know the pre 66 or 67 GM cars turn the power off to certain circuits when cranking. If you do not have power to the injectors while cranking, you need another "Pink Wire" supply source or you need to jumper the run and start. There is a good article in the GM A body help section. If you still have problems, PM me and I will try to help you out over the phone, I am in Charleston, SC.
Also, pull your plugs and smell for gas...how do I know this, we almost hydrolocked an engine because we were fiddling with another issue and the injectors were still firing. If you are testing the engine with the starter and don't want it to fire the injectors, pull the breaker for the fuel pump.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE! I hope everyone has/had a table to sit around tonight and some food to put in their bellies.
Now for the ls1 talk. Having more problems I cant seem to diagnose. Changed the fuel rail. So now the only thing in the fuel system thats not new to me are the fuel injectors, which I bench cleaned and tested and appear to work like normal.
-I jumper cabled the battery to another running vehicle
-I have spark
-I have 58psi at the (new) fuel rail
-obviously have air
-fuel injectors flow fuel, and noid light test showed injector activity while cranking
Weird part to me is that it started up and cranked up fine last night. It ran and idled fine on its own. I got a sweet video and then shut it off because Im just takin it easy for the first startups. Now a day later, it wont stay idling. It takes 4 or 5 tries to get it to fire up, and when it does i have to peddle the throttle a little and then after about 3 seconds it shuts itself off and wont even sputter when i turn it over again. like vats arnt turned off, even though the shop that did it for me (mayhem motorsports in raleigh nc) swore they've done tons of tunes and definitely tuned it right. now what makes me think its a tune issue now is that after it shuts itself off i get two codes... p0481 and p0803.
p0481 is 2nd fan relay and p0803 is ship shift solenoid.
Granted, I did NOT tell them to tune that out, so the shop is not to blame for the codes, but would those codes unrelated to the combustion of gasoline keep it from not starting up? Is the computer really that sensitive that it would only sputter a few times before starting up strong and cutting itself off after realizing it doesnt have a 2nd fan connection or that the ship shift solenoid is not connected? Anyone have any idea of where to start diagnosing the issue? Im pretty stumped other than just letting a shop take it and fix it, but I dont want to leave them with it with my maze of unlabled wiring under the dash.
This thing is driving me nuts. One of the most popular ****** super basic engine swaps in the country and I cant get it started up. Someone be a savior and chime in!
HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE! I hope everyone has/had a table to sit around tonight and some food to put in their bellies.
Now for the ls1 talk. Having more problems I cant seem to diagnose. Changed the fuel rail. So now the only thing in the fuel system thats not new to me are the fuel injectors, which I bench cleaned and tested and appear to work like normal.
-I jumper cabled the battery to another running vehicle
-I have spark
-I have 58psi at the (new) fuel rail
-obviously have air
-fuel injectors flow fuel, and noid light test showed injector activity while cranking
Weird part to me is that it started up and cranked up fine last night. It ran and idled fine on its own. I got a sweet video and then shut it off because Im just takin it easy for the first startups. Now a day later, it wont stay idling. It takes 4 or 5 tries to get it to fire up, and when it does i have to peddle the throttle a little and then after about 3 seconds it shuts itself off and wont even sputter when i turn it over again. like vats arnt turned off, even though the shop that did it for me (mayhem motorsports in raleigh nc) swore they've done tons of tunes and definitely tuned it right. now what makes me think its a tune issue now is that after it shuts itself off i get two codes... p0481 and p0803.
p0481 is 2nd fan relay and p0803 is ship shift solenoid.
Granted, I did NOT tell them to tune that out, so the shop is not to blame for the codes, but would those codes unrelated to the combustion of gasoline keep it from not starting up? Is the computer really that sensitive that it would only sputter a few times before starting up strong and cutting itself off after realizing it doesnt have a 2nd fan connection or that the ship shift solenoid is not connected? Anyone have any idea of where to start diagnosing the issue? Im pretty stumped other than just letting a shop take it and fix it, but I dont want to leave them with it with my maze of unlabled wiring under the dash.
This thing is driving me nuts. One of the most popular ****** super basic engine swaps in the country and I cant get it started up. Someone be a savior and chime in!
I'm a tech, I specialize in electrical and driveability. I also know all there is to know about LS's. Those codes are totally and completely unrelated to your crank-no start condition. Find a guy local to you that has HPtuners (if that's how it was tuned) and have him read the pcm and save the file. You can send it to me or upload it in here and we can view the file and tell you if the VATS was disabled. The guy should be able to tell you as well, but then at least it'd be uploaded here for us to see. You can take it to a competent shop near you and have them treat it like the donor vehicle as far as diagnosing it. Those pcm's are essentially 99% all the same when it comes to the wiring, exception being how the pcm assigns certain functions to a select few circuits.
I also have a 76 280z in the shop right now that's not far from being done. Car is a total POS beat to hell and abused and neglected as hell. But as far as the wiring (yours truly) and the fabrication of the motor/trans mounts you won't find a better fabricator than my boss, the fab work wiring and powertrain are the only reliable pieces to the car.....and the diff is stock and welded haha....kid wants it to be a "track car". 450hp LS1 and T56 and he already has stretched tires, and wants to "stance" it with dangerous radical camber. It's like he can't slam into a wall or pole fast enough!
update: did a bunch of research and found a guy a year or two ago with similar issues, ended up fixing it by cleaning his maf. I believe that may have solved my issue as i have touched the little resistors in the maf and may have messed it up. i cleaned it off pretty well with carb cleaner and may borrow one from a friend to see if that helps diagnose the issue but it starts and runs well! just doesnt idle. i put together a quick video for part 1 of the build if anyone would like to check it out!
08-14-2015, 06:57 PM
