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I decided to build an SN-95 after putting the 2013 Coyote Mustang on the scales. To my shock the race weight was almost 3900 lbs. Not wanting to ruin a brand new car with the weight reduction that would be required to run single digits I purchased a 1994 Mustang GTS V-6. The perfect blank canvas to build a single digit street/strip car. With the foundation of UPR suspension, Viking shocks, Racestar wheels, and a Moser 8.8 rear end. On the exterior I plan to update to a Cobra front bumper, Keanan 6″ pin on extended cowl hood, new head lights and taillights, and a fresh coat of white paint with blue pearl. Kirkey Seats, Coast Chassis roll cage, Heads Up fiberglass dash, and Racepak UDX dash will complete the interior. Fuel will be supplied by a Magnafuel pro-star 500 fed from a trunk mounted 10 gallon aluminum fuel cell. While the final engine details have not been decided.
1994 Mustang GTS V-6
Engine Out
Interior gutted
6" Keanan pin on cowl hood
Fuel door delete
Viking double adjustable rear shocks
UPR LS swap K-member
UPR anti roll bar and full length sub frame connectors
UPR Solid UCA's and LCA's
Strange single adjustable coil overs
Last edited by redline2k; Oct 4, 2015 at 06:56 PM.
Reason: Added Pictures
Nice. You could spend a day removing all the sound deadener with a heat gun and some scraping tools. I did the same, filled a 5 gal. bucket and was surprised how little it weighed compared to to older cars. The Cobra front bumper really changes the look, I'd like to do that too. Isn't the `99-04 axle housing wider than the `94-98? Are you looking at 6.5 offset rims?
Nice. You could spend a day removing all the sound deadener with a heat gun and some scraping tools. I did the same, filled a 5 gal. bucket and was surprised how little it weighed compared to to older cars. The Cobra front bumper really changes the look, I'd like to do that too. Isn't the `99-04 axle housing wider than the `94-98? Are you looking at 6.5 offset rims?
Yes it is an inch wider. The rear wheels I have are off my 2013 mustang which uses a 7.5" back space so the 2000 rear end works perfect.
Removing the glass and cutting the top off is the the preferred method for a lot of builders but, it seems like a lot of extra work when the main hoop can be dropped through the floor pan (through some 2" holes) before it's welded in to access welds on top. It looks like it's coming along well. Are you mixing 1.750" and 1.625" to build that cage?
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