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Where will the exhaust rout? It will be above the sub-frame, right?
What about triangulating to the outboard side of the mounts? You could put in one more member bisecting the large (almost) triangle at the front of the sub-frame.
You'd have more leverage outboard side. If you really need to keep it tight, build a 4 or 5" wide 1/8" plate gusset on the column motor mounts to increase moment of inertia. Then triangulate a brace to the column base tube so it doesn't twist.
I was looking at the photos again. A pair of gussets per side would work. The first one, a triangle, place in in the forward corner of the rear (almost triangle) adjacent to the motor mount strut (parallel to the ground) and a second gusseted between the motor mount strut and the first gusset. It would be in a vertical plane and also a triangle.
In general....
Do any of the subframe members carry enough force to be trussed for strength?
I was looking at the photos again. A pair of gussets per side would work. The first one, a triangle, place in in the forward corner of the rear (almost triangle) adjacent to the motor mount strut (parallel to the ground) and a second gusseted between the motor mount strut and the first gusset. It would be in a vertical plane and also a triangle.
In general....
Do any of the subframe members carry enough force to be trussed for strength?
DW SD,
I'm just being lazzy to be honest . I will come up with something once I populate the area with what ever else needs to be
installed going forward. Here are more pictures (red hose just to simulate an exhaust )
I'm really looking at accessory drive systems, using maybe a passenger side Alternator and A/C Compressor mounted low down. I would like to find a crank pulley that's a one belt unit like the LS4 ????
So I did a little more work on the engine support, I'm going to mount the alternator and a/c compressor one on each side of the engine low at crank pulley level. That will keep
the cab intrusion to a minimum.
I got a a/c and mount system that seems to work well. The alt is going on the driver side at this point and using the outside larger wider belt. I could make up something using a spring loaded tensioner but I think the static one here might work fine. Placing the Alt lower will really help keep driver seating unchanged.
Will you still need a bulge in the bulkhead for the water pump /pulley?
Yes for sure, I didn't push the engine and transmission back much (1 1/2") . The W/P is in the center so its inconsequential IMO
I received the GM engine controller package, wiring harness, ecm, fuse/relay block and gas pedal. Really a plug and play unit but placement is key to serviceability. Its not installed yet LOL
Ok so I'm trying to minimize my belt exposure ( not a real belt in picture a stand in strap) using one belt and some idlers / bearings to help direct the traction angles ??
what is your opinion's on this type of setup ? Will it work ?
I'm thinking of using the Davies Craig electric water pump system, pump, and controller. Any thoughts on that system would be helpful as well.
I have a 996 C2 / LS6 with the Davies Craig pump and inline mechanical thermostat that works well .This is a street car and do not know how it would do on the track .
I'm thinking of using the Davies Craig electric water pump system, pump, and controller. Any thoughts on that system would be helpful as well.
I've used the Davies Craig EWP150 without a controller and it worked great. Just set it up on a relay and have ECM trigger it same as you would do a fan (except I didn't turn pump off at lower temps like a fan does).
I've never seen a pulley have a belt contact it in two different locations. It may work, but I've never seen that before.
Why not go with two separate belts, as you had done with your first mock-up a few days ago?
I think you have a good point, I'm going to test some different belt setups.
Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
I've used the Davies Craig EWP150 without a controller and it worked great. Just set it up on a relay and have ECM trigger it same as you would do a fan (except I didn't turn pump off at lower temps like a fan does).
Thanks for your input, I'm not going to track this car just a fun retirement rig.
so by now you guys can likely tell I go down every rabbit hole possible just to waist time LOL
Hopefully I now have the accessory drive ironed out !!
I did come by an interesting VW setup where the A/C compressor had two pulleys that transfers to drive all the other sub-systems. Interesting setup maybe for another build LOL
So I'm looking at how to connect the radiator hoses and am having trouble identifying the upper / lower hoses ?? Trust me the layout is NOTHING like any car I have ever seen. Trying to get any detail of flow over the net has not helped much at all.
Anyone know which coolant pipe under the car right or left driver or passenger side is the "upper" and "lower" designation ?
I decided on the Davies Craig water pump, pump controller and water manifold. I think the pump will move enough coolant but I like the fact I can control the pump and fans. I may add a second pump and use it when engine temps warrant.
Things are all coming together well hope to have the Cayman running in the next 30 days
Cheers all
Below is a picture of my bud who runs a body shop in Everson WA, here he is painting a single engine Plane. Gary's auto body shop, he does fantastic work !!!!! Gary is going to help with the engine cover / firewall construction. He will be painting the car as well down the road.
I'm looking into placing the electric water pump next to the passenger side vent/scoop. Surely a rough layout but moving forward. I have 20 T-Bolt hose clamps coming to insure a great seal.
This 1 1/2" hose is indestructible, bends well and is very smooth inside to help coolant move less restricted. I am going to use 2 electric water pumps so there's plenty of flow and some redundancy.