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MSD offers spark plug wire sets with the flexible boots on the plug ends that you can form to your needs. As an alternative, you can also use the Taylor spark plug wires with the pre-formed ends such as what you see used by another ls1tech member here on his SN95 Mustang with Hooker Blackheart headers. The wires shown are part number 76045 and are for the car coils, the 76046 wires are longer to fit the truck coils.
Well everyone, with the installation of the headers, that pretty much catches this thread up with the major work done. I've been doing a lot of smaller things but mostly I've been trying to figure things out and decide how I want to do stuff. In other words, internet searching, talking with other forum members, more internet research.
Some of the items that have been maxing out my cranial CPU include (in no particular order):
fuel system in-dash gauges wiring relays for headlights EVAP system interior
The reason I started thinking of relays for the headlights is because of my 2001 Ford F250SD diesel truck. The headlights are so dim and yellow that sometimes I have to make sure that I actually have the headlights on. The plastic lenses are not in bad shape it's just that there is too much voltage drop along the long, circuitous factory wiring. The Mustang isn't any better so I'm going to do both vehicles and be able to see better at night.
In addition to all of that, I've been working on removing more parts from the donor car in preparation of getting rid of the body, hopefully by the end of March 2021. Hopefully!
The floor of the car is pretty well done as far as sound deadening material goes. I'm still going to apply some to the doors and the roof.
I figured that it wouldn't hurt if I added some sound deadening material to the walls of the quarter panel. The Peel n Seal is cheap and I've got plenty.
Adding relays made a huge difference to mine (Volvo) - tip - keep leads (hot and ground) as short as possible and use 10 or 12 gauge wires. I took that approach and measured 0.00V drop between battery and bulb connection. I’m getting a full 14.5V when running at the bulbs.
Adding relays made a huge difference to mine (Volvo) - tip - keep leads (hot and ground) as short as possible and use 10 or 12 gauge wires. I took that approach and measured 0.00V drop between battery and bulb connection. I’m getting a full 14.5V when running at the bulbs.
About to help my buddy make a similar “stealth” relay change to his ‘62 Ferrari. 😳
I've had Daniel Stern's website saved to my Chromebook's bookmarks for a while. I keep going back to it because it is full of great electrical information.
I wonder how I'd get big, 10ga wires into this headlight bulb connector:
I think that I could get 12ga wires into it. Red is low beam; green is high beam and the tan is the ground.
Keep in mind - 12ga will probably be fine. But mostly 10 ga and a little 12 is even better. You can always leave just a short pigtail of 12 and then solder in 10 and go the rest of the way.
It's hard to find this type of stuff that's not china made but Omron comes to the rescue! Most premade headlight relay kits come with similar (but probably chinesium) relays. Most DIYers will use the same type of relay for their upgraded headlight wiring as well.
This incorporates everything, including the necessary fuses, inside the box and allows for more circuits later on. It's pretty cool. The Bussmann uses micro relays which are different than the relays that I previously linked. Omron has USA made micro relays as well. The only downside to using the Bussmann box is that it probably won't be mounted as close to the headlights as two individual weatherproof relays could. Bigger wire would help!
I'm planning on using two of the four Omron weatherproof relays on my F250SD truck. I'll keep the other two because I'm a sucker for USA made products. I'm going to buy an Eaton Bussmann box for the "hole in the head!"
Last edited by dannyual777; 03-07-2021 at 10:29 PM.
Reason: added text
Keep in mind - 12ga will probably be fine. But mostly 10 ga and a little 12 is even better. You can always leave just a short pigtail of 12 and then solder in 10 and go the rest of the way.
I really, really want the battery in the back. I had my mind made up that I was going to wire it the way MAD Electrical describes in his diagrams. Like he suggests, I would prefer that my big, positive starter cable be dead all the time except during engine cranking. The problem is that I'm using a Powermaster Permanent Magnet starter. You can't "jumper" a PM starter.
I've never run a trunk mounted battery. The thought of 15' of 2/0 battery cable running from the back of the car to the front and always being hot just doesn't make me comfortable. On the other hand, this is pretty ugly:
The Mustang requires a special, short battery to fit in this tray and allow hood clearance. A trunk mounted battery would allow me to use pretty much any battery that I wanted. Plus, things will look cleaner without that battery and tray sitting there.
It's been a while since I've posted on this car build. I haven't done a thing to the car but I've spent a lot of time trying to determine just exactly how I want to proceed on several things including:
1. Fuel system
2. Wiring
3. Instrumentation
It didn't help that I was out of town for 9 days this month, either.
I don't think that I've mentioned it in this thread but my coupe's fuel tank was rusted up. No problem. I'll just use the tank from the donor car. Wrong! The donor's tank is rusted worse than the coupe's tank. I ended up purchasing a new fuel tank from Amazon:
Andrew recommended that instead of using a bigger Fox return style, in-tank pump, that I think about using a returnless, pulse width modulated (PWM), 2015 Camaro fuel module. Hmm. Seems modern and way cool to me. Here's one: Rock Auto's DELPHI FG1291 for $168 but this GM GENUINE MU1959 is only $115.
Unfortunately, these modules will not fit my Fox tank without some serious modification. The modules require this Fuel Pump Module Mounting Ring to be welded to the tank. This requires a 6 3/8" diameter hole to be cut in the tank. The modules require a depth of 5 1/2"-7". Something you can't see in the fuel tank pictures that I posted above is the angle on the bottom of the tank. With the angle, I'm very limited in where this fuel module can be placed. In addition, this type of modification, fabrication and welding is beyond my abilities.
I took the tank to a recommended welder/fabricator back on 12 March and he looked at it for a while and we talked about what I needed/wanted done. In the end, he said that he wasn't able to do it. I do have one more recommended welder/fabricator that I could try but I'm starting to get the impression that this may be beyond what I really want to get into. The last welder was a 45 min drive each way and the next is 1+hr each way.
I really love Andrew's idea of using this Camaro fuel module but I'm not sure if it's going to happen. I may end up throwing in the towel and using a bigger, old school, Fox style fuel pump such as this: Aeromotive 83-97 EFI Mustang Stealth 340 & Hanger
FWIW I used a Deatschwerks DW300 intank for mine - (relatively) easy fit into the tank through the OEM opening, and I'm pretty sure the Volvo opening is even smaller than the Mustang opening. Mounted a Corvette style filter/regulator back close to the tank so the return “loop” is only about 18” long. For all intents and purposes it appears as a single line supply running to the fuel rail. EXTREMELY quiet.
Last edited by Michael Yount; 03-24-2021 at 07:08 PM.
Hey. Don’t worry about putting the battery in the trunk. Just put a fuse by the battery that is rated for the current load for the car. Install it within 18”s, preferably less, just off the positive post. Here is a picture of my Laguna going the opposite direction. My sub amp requires a 150 amp fuse with 0/2 wire.
FWIW I used a Deatschwerks DW300 intank for mine - (relatively) easy fit into the tank through the OEM opening, and I'm pretty sure the Volvo opening is even smaller than the Mustang opening. Mounted a Corvette style filter/regulator back close to the tank so the return “loop” is only about 18” long. For all intents and purposes it appears as a single line supply running to the fuel rail. EXTREMELY quiet.
Michael, I remember your recommendation for this pump in my Fox body swap guys: fuel system questions thread. It was probably right after I said that I was going to buy one of those nice Deatschwerks pumps that Andrew suggested the Camaro module.
That Corvette filter/regulator is very popular and my plans were to use it with the Fox style fuel pump. I'm pretty sure the horsepower capability of the filter/regulator is sufficient for my stock LS376/480.
Like I said in my previous post, both of my used, Fox tanks are rusted up. The pump hangers in both tanks are also rusted up so I need a new hanger assembly. I'm also concerned that the stock, small fuel feed line will be a restriction. I really like the idea of the Aeromotive hanger that I linked in my previous post. I can use -8AN fittings with it. Here is another hanger assembly that was suggested to me in my thread on corral.net: QUANTUM AN FITTING FUEL PUMP HANGER -8AN/-6AN FOR 1986-1997 FORD MUSTANG (WITHOUT PUMP)
Last edited by dannyual777; 03-25-2021 at 07:26 AM.
Reason: added text
Revin, thank you for the picture. My recent research has confirmed what you say about using a large amperage fuse on the battery cable (very close to the battery positive terminal) running from the trunk mounted batter up to the front of the car. Are your large cables covered with hose?
Michael, do you run your positive cables through the car or underneath it? What size fuse are you using for your two hotrods?
In post 272, I mentioned item #3, instrumentation. I need to make up my mind real quick because Speedhut is currently running a sale that expires at the end of this month. I'm thinking of using these fully customizable gauges: SPEEDHUT 6 GAUGE CUSTOM KIT
03-06-2021, 10:27 AM
