2006 Silverado 5.3 swap into 2007 dodge magnum CRANK.. NO START
06-12-2022, 07:23 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
2006 Silverado 5.3 swap into 2007 dodge magnum CRANK.. NO START I have a 2007 dodge magnum (had 2.7 POS), that I have a fully installed and wired up 2006 Silverado 5.3 mated with a 4L65e. I have a diy standalone harness for the 5.3, and have nothing from the dodge being used or piggybacked between the two computers. I had Brandon at Lt1swap do the programming and vats delete, etc... And also have followed his and numerous other guides in making sure I got everything wired right and have no hiccups that would cause me anymore B.S. with this car. But, nothing ever goes as planned. I had tried a few things with the piggyback theory to try and get it started, but that was a joke. So now I've gone to a new aftermarket ignition cylinder, everyday on the shelf atO Reilly's, broken down the pink wires even further so instead of there being 3 pink fused ignition there is now 6, added in 2 more relays to make up for the new fuses, ran the purple converter signal wire to the brake switch, which is now powered on and grounded by the gm computer, I have no clue if I have to run the cruise control wires to wherever, figured it was optional??? And on the ignition have ran the pink wires main line wire to the ignition post on the key switch, the starter solenoid to the solenoid post, and a direct feed from the battery to the battery post. I click the key over once and I can hear my fuel pump come alive, the throttle body clicks or whatever you call that noise, and I can hear my fuses/relay box come alive. At that point, yes everything has the volts on the voltmeter like it should. When I click the key to engage the starter, it cranks over, and sounds strong, but will not mother*#$*#$_! start!!!! I figure it's because my injectors and coils are not staying powered on when the key cranks over, they are cutting off. How do I make them stay on????????? Was going to jump a wire from the injector fuse to the starter solenoid wire, but what prevents the starter from continuing to start when I'm no longer cranking the key and the engine is actually running. So, I don't know how to do this. Any help is better than me taking a full gas can to this car at this point. I've been working on this swap for 8 almost 9 months, stuck at home out in the country about 25 miles from humans, and I'm about to believe it was all good reason because when I set this car on fire, nobody will ever see it!!!!
06-12-2022, 08:42 PM
#2
TECH Fanatic
I have a 2007 dodge magnum (had 2.7 POS), that I have a fully installed and wired up 2006 Silverado 5.3 mated with a 4L65e. I have a diy standalone harness for the 5.3, and have nothing from the dodge being used or piggybacked between the two computers.
I had Brandon at Lt1swap do the programming and vats delete, etc... And also have followed his and numerous other guides in making sure I got everything wired right and have no hiccups that would cause me anymore B.S. with this car. But, nothing ever goes as planned. I had tried a few things with the piggyback theory to try and get it started, but that was a joke.
So now I've gone to a new aftermarket ignition cylinder, everyday on the shelf atO Reilly's, broken down the pink wires even further so instead of there being 3 pink fused ignition there is now 6, added in 2 more relays to make up for the new fuses, ran the purple converter signal wire to the brake switch, which is now powered on and grounded by the gm computer.
I have no clue if I have to run the cruise control wires to wherever, figured it was optional? And on the ignition have ran the pink wires main line wire to the ignition post on the key switch, the starter solenoid to the solenoid post, and a direct feed from the battery to the battery post. I click the key over once and I can hear my fuel pump come alive, the throttle body clicks or whatever you call that noise, and I can hear my fuses/relay box come alive. At that point, yes everything has the volts on the voltmeter like it should.
When I click the key to engage the starter, it cranks over, and sounds strong, but will not mother*#$*#$_! start!!!! I figure it's because my injectors and coils are not staying powered on when the key cranks over, they are cutting off. How do I make them stay on?
I Was going to jump a wire from the injector fuse to the starter solenoid wire, but what prevents the starter from continuing to start when I'm no longer cranking the key and the engine is actually running. So, I don't know how to do this. ]]
Any help is better than me taking a full gas can to this car at this point. I've been working on this swap for 8 almost 9 months, stuck at home out in the country about 25 miles from humans, and I'm about to believe it was all good reason because when I set this car on fire, nobody will ever see it!
I had Brandon at Lt1swap do the programming and vats delete, etc... And also have followed his and numerous other guides in making sure I got everything wired right and have no hiccups that would cause me anymore B.S. with this car. But, nothing ever goes as planned. I had tried a few things with the piggyback theory to try and get it started, but that was a joke.
So now I've gone to a new aftermarket ignition cylinder, everyday on the shelf atO Reilly's, broken down the pink wires even further so instead of there being 3 pink fused ignition there is now 6, added in 2 more relays to make up for the new fuses, ran the purple converter signal wire to the brake switch, which is now powered on and grounded by the gm computer.
I have no clue if I have to run the cruise control wires to wherever, figured it was optional? And on the ignition have ran the pink wires main line wire to the ignition post on the key switch, the starter solenoid to the solenoid post, and a direct feed from the battery to the battery post. I click the key over once and I can hear my fuel pump come alive, the throttle body clicks or whatever you call that noise, and I can hear my fuses/relay box come alive. At that point, yes everything has the volts on the voltmeter like it should.
When I click the key to engage the starter, it cranks over, and sounds strong, but will not mother*#$*#$_! start!!!! I figure it's because my injectors and coils are not staying powered on when the key cranks over, they are cutting off. How do I make them stay on?
I Was going to jump a wire from the injector fuse to the starter solenoid wire, but what prevents the starter from continuing to start when I'm no longer cranking the key and the engine is actually running. So, I don't know how to do this. ]]
Any help is better than me taking a full gas can to this car at this point. I've been working on this swap for 8 almost 9 months, stuck at home out in the country about 25 miles from humans, and I'm about to believe it was all good reason because when I set this car on fire, nobody will ever see it!
The following 3 users liked this post by theunderlord:
06-12-2022, 10:34 PM
#4
TECH Fanatic
trust me, the less the big block of text, the more people will read and help. 
Trending Topics
06-13-2022, 08:17 PM
#8
Look, simple things first. Check for fuel pressure. If you have 60psi or so while cranking you have fuel pressure. The next thing to do I pull diagnostics codes from the 5.3. If you’ve hooked up the diagnostic link for the GM engine) which you should have) it will provide some guidance as to what may be going wrong. Make sure the crank position sensor is plugged in behind the starter.
The following users liked this post:
Jimbo1367 (07-19-2022)
06-14-2022, 06:00 PM
#9
Replacing OEM LS coils for O'Reilly coils is exactly the same thing as trading a barely 18 year old set of 34 C cups and replacing them with veiny, lopsided 63 year old biker ***** that breastfed all 6 kids.. There definitely should be no reason to rewire anything!! You need to put it back in hot 18 year old rack configuration and start from there..
The following 2 users liked this post by headsup9550:
Jimbo1367 (07-19-2022), Ls7colorado (06-15-2022)
06-15-2022, 04:44 AM
#10
Replacing OEM LS coils for O'Reilly coils is exactly the same thing as trading a barely 18 year old set of 34 C cups and replacing them with veiny, lopsided 63 year old biker ***** that breastfed all 6 kids.. There definitely should be no reason to rewire anything!! You need to put it back in hot 18 year old rack configuration and start from there..
The following users liked this post:
1964SS (06-16-2022)
07-18-2022, 05:28 PM
#13
Teching In
Thread Starter
My boyfriend looked at me and I couldn't believe it, 8 long months, and I finally did it. But now..... I still haven't been able to get my coolant hoses figured out. Can't figure out what's in and what's out on the water pump, and the steam line, I don't want to tap into the pump, that's asking for problems.
Also, my oil pressure. Yesterday, I dropped oil pan, checked o ring and tube, and could see that the old oring mark in the oil pump was red, but the new o ring was black that came with the new tube and oil pan. Fits snuggly, but I still added a diy helper bracket to keep the pick up oring in place, similar to melling's.
I went to start, oil pressure was at 35-40on after market gauge, then two seconds it went to zero. My problem is I can't see any type of oil thru the valve cover filler hole being pushed in to the passenger side, the pcv bottom is bone dry, but when I removed the oil pressure sensor, it was dry. But fully removed, the oil shot out with incredible force, so why does my motor sound like it's chappy or running dry. I had oil on 2 rear spark plugs and one rear on the other side, not much but enough to show the oil is reaching that point.
07-21-2022, 11:00 AM
#14
TECH Addict
My water pump is tapped for the steam line. It has been that way since 2013. If i didn't use the water pump i would use the heater hose and put a tee in.The top of the water pump goes to the top of the radiator and the bottom where the thermostat is goes to the bottom of the radiator.
07-21-2022, 12:02 PM
#15
Teching In
Thread Starter
So I had the steam line ran to the heater hose that went to the top of the coolant bottle, and for whatever reason I'm still not getting water to circulate. I took out the thermostat last night, along with the front cover and the oil pan, etc... I've got a bad main bearing, but I'm hoping that it was the thermostat that was backing it up. I gotta sneaky feeling though, it's probably got a clog in a water jacket somewhere or possibly a bad pump, so I'm grabbing a new water pump today. I'll let u know if I get it figured out.