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This is the build thread for my 1970 “SS Chevelle”
I purchased this Chevelle in 2018. It had a 396 BBC with TH400. This car checks all of the boxes to be an SS Chevelle, however it does not have a build sheet. It runs great and all, however I have found that none of the parts are original to this car. The transmission came out of a 1972 motor home. The engine was out of a 1971 Chevelle. The rear end came out of a 1971 A-body and has a 2.73:1 12 bolt open differential.
The body was originally built in Van Nuys, Cal and was painted Gobi beige. I suspect that the rest came from a OPG catalog.
whoever built it did a pretty good job overall. But since it is not numbers matching anything, I am going to update this 53 year old car.
I will appreciate the knowledge and help from this community.
Here we go…
Are you going to take the frame off? I'm a huge fan of updating the chassis (boxing the frame) or if you have the coin go for an RS chassis. Keep those cool a-body looks but if you're upgrading the power, how bout the ride too?
If you are interested, I have a 68-72 Chevelle 12 bolt in excellent condition. It has Motive 3.42 gears and Moser axles and a Strange 1350 billet pinion yoke. I am in Kansas City and willing to meet half way...Shoot me a PM if you are interested.
I am planning on removing the frame. It is very clean already. Fortunately it has been in Texas and Oklahoma for a long time. Garage kept. I am going to box the frame with the Summit kit. I also have to cut the transmission tunnel to fit the new transmission. The 8L90 is huge.
Hawk Motorsports post videos of your engine running on YouTube. Pretty cool. The donor car was a 2016 Chevy Camaro SS and had 26K miles. I found them on EBay. It takes a few weeks after the purchase for them to remove your engine and ship it.
It arrived on a pallet and had all of the pieces and parts
I finished removing my 396 / TH400 this week.
First I had to drain all of the fluids, I found the transmission torque converter was baked. The fluid was black and stinky. I think the torque converter had a come apart. It sounded like it was chewing rocks. What a mess.
I’ve begun taking the new motor apart. I am having trouble removing some of the connectors on the harness, without damaging them. The knock sensors in particular are difficult.
I am going to get this motor mounted on the engine stand soon. I am waiting on a lift plate to arrive. I am not sure how to separate the transmission from the motor. I could use some advise about removing the torque converter bolts.
This garage is getting smaller and smaller, with all of the pieces and parts scattered around.
I still need to remove the interior, and dash board, before I can separate the body from the frame.
I am going to get this motor mounted on the engine stand soon. I am waiting on a lift plate to arrive. I am not sure how to separate the transmission from the motor. I could use some advise about removing the torque converter bolts.
This garage is getting smaller and smaller, with all of the pieces and parts scattered around.
I still need to remove the interior, and dash board, before I can separate the body from the frame.
I may be a little biased, but I love what your doing here. The converter comes off the flywheel, just like your previous setup that you removed, with three bolts. Then unbolt the bellhousing bolts from the block and it will slide off the dowels. You can unbolt the body off the frame without touching any of the interior of your not interested in taking it all apart. The body bolts up through the frame, from the bottom, so no need to remove carpet/seats if not in your plans. The two bolts at the firewall are different, but still easy to get to. Of course your gonna need to mod the tunnel for that big Tranny, so the carpet and seats are going out anyway…
You can go ahead and gut any engine related wiring going out through the bulkhead. Leave your lights and horn wiring in place, but all of the original engine related wiring will disappear. If your planning on tuning on this gen5 engine, you’ll want to go with Holley electronics. The Oem GM stuff doesn’t leave a lot of room for tuning on the Gen5 stuff.
I may be a little biased, but I love what your doing here. The converter comes off the flywheel, just like your previous setup that you removed, with three bolts. Then unbolt the bellhousing bolts from the block and it will slide off the dowels. You can unbolt the body off the frame without touching any of the interior of your not interested in taking it all apart. The body bolts up through the frame, from the bottom, so no need to remove carpet/seats if not in your plans. The two bolts at the firewall are different, but still easy to get to. Of course your gonna need to mod the tunnel for that big Tranny, so the carpet and seats are going out anyway…
You can go ahead and gut any engine related wiring going out through the bulkhead. Leave your lights and horn wiring in place, but all of the original engine related wiring will disappear. If your planning on tuning on this gen5 engine, you’ll want to go with Holley electronics. The Oem GM stuff doesn’t leave a lot of room for tuning on the Gen5 stuff.
I was looking for an inspection panel / dust cover on the bottom of the 8L90 transmission. After I removed the starter, I was able to see the torque converter bolts. Ill have to spin the flywheel through that hole, to access and remove the bolts.
I am planning on removing the interior, so that I do not start a bonfire, when I am making a new tunnel for the new tranny.
When I lift the body off, can I use the pinch welds to support the body, while I roll out the chassis?
Thanks for your advice.
When I lift the body off, can I use the pinch welds to support the body, while I roll out the chassis?
Thanks for your advice.
Yes. I would put a board under the pinch weld. If you want to get fancy, get your circular saw out and put a 1/2" wide slot in the board so it lets the pinch weld slip into the board.
Yes. I would put a board under the pinch weld. If you want to get fancy, get your circular saw out and put a 1/2" wide slot in the board so it lets the pinch weld slip into the board.
Andrew
I just don't want to crush anything. Someone told me to use a strap on the front of the body at the body mount, to fasten the front to the 2 post lift arm. It could get a little back heavy. I definitely do not want the body to roll off on the floor. #gameover
04-07-2023, 02:10 AM
BKs 1970 Chevelle Gen V LT1 Swap 
