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I only use PMC kit, and it fits those that are also based on the LS1 that was available Euro side. I’ll see if I can get some pics next one I dummy build. But is there any difference between the spacing on the Gen3/Gen4 blocks do you know Andrew?
With respect to the starter configuration, there aren't any differences in the blocks. There are differences in the starters. For instance the nose, but also some starters use a short and a long bolt, while others use two long bolts. I've only ever used starters that have two long bolts.
With respect to the starter configuration, there aren't any differences in the blocks. There are differences in the starters. For instance the nose, but also some starters use a short and a long bolt, while others use two long bolts. I've only ever used starters that have two long bolts.
Andrew
Thanks mate, sometimes the part numbers can get a little over whelming and pictures do not always reflect the part number.
What an awesome thread. I was set on doing the Powertrain Swap 10 speed kit they’re producing for my WS6 but now I’m shopping for 8HP90’s to swap in instead. Read all 27 pages, did have a quick question;
I have 2 options locally. 2019 8HP90 from a Hellcat challenger and unknown year 20XX 8HP90 from a Hellcat Redeye. Roughly the same price with the Redeye transmission having fewer miles.
Any reason I shouldn’t go with the Redeye 8HP? Or does it even matter in the end
What an awesome thread. I was set on doing the Powertrain Swap 10 speed kit they’re producing for my WS6 but now I’m shopping for 8HP90’s to swap in instead. Read all 27 pages, did have a quick question;
I have 2 options locally. 2019 8HP90 from a Hellcat challenger and unknown year 20XX 8HP90 from a Hellcat Redeye. Roughly the same price with the Redeye transmission having fewer miles.
Any reason I shouldn’t go with the Redeye 8HP? Or does it even matter in the end
It matters as it relates to which TCU option you're interested in implementing.
Does anyone know of any 8HP swaps with Corvettes, or companies that offer components for that?
i was planning to put a TR-6060 into my C5 over the winter, but drove a friend's M3 today and now I've gone down the ZF 8HP rabbit-hole...
I'm not bold enough to pioneer this, but I'd love to follow in someone else's footsteps.
And apparently there's s transaxle variant of the 8HP that was used in an Aston Martin, so that gives me a bit of hope.
What flange yoke are you guys using for the zf8hp70? I purchased one, but seemed to have messed up measurements and it doesn't fit.
I have a zf8hp70 from a 16' charger. Need the yoke and a custom slip shaft for my c10 project. Was planning on using a local shop for the shaft, but need the yoke for an accurate length.
Here is a picture of my beautiful trans mount & crossmember for attention. We will see if my beginner welds hold.
What flange yoke are you guys using for the zf8hp70? I purchased one, but seemed to have messed up measurements and it doesn't fit.
I have a zf8hp70 from a 16' charger. Need the yoke and a custom slip shaft for my c10 project. Was planning on using a local shop for the shaft, but need the yoke for an accurate length.
Here is a picture of my beautiful trans mount & crossmember for attention. We will see if my beginner welds hold.
I use a driveshaft with a CV at the transmission. As far as I know Sonnax is the only company that sells an adapter for the CV cup to a u-joint. If you watch videos on YouTube of guys that are "breaking" 8HP90s, they all have that yoke in common. These transmissions do not tolerate any driveline vibrations. In my opinion, the output bearing will fail in short order then using the Sonnax adapter and a driveshaft with a old style slip joint in it. YMMW...
I use a driveshaft with a CV at the transmission. As far as I know Sonnax is the only company that sells an adapter for the CV cup to a u-joint. If you watch videos on YouTube of guys that are "breaking" 8HP90s, they all have that yoke in common. These transmissions do not tolerate any driveline vibrations. In my opinion, the output bearing will fail in short order then using the Sonnax adapter and a driveshaft with a old style slip joint in it. YMMW...
At a minimum I would get a driveshaft with a CV that matches the transmission and in the rear use a 1350 u-joint. The CV at the transmission has about 7/8" of travel and will accommodate reasonable axle movement.
If you expect a lot of travel in the rear suspension or a lot of pinion rise, then a driveshaft with the CV at the front will not work.
At a minimum I would get a driveshaft with a CV that matches the transmission and in the rear use a 1350 u-joint. The CV at the transmission has about 7/8" of travel and will accommodate reasonable axle movement.
If you expect a lot of travel in the rear suspension or a lot of pinion rise, then a driveshaft with the CV at the front will not work.
Andrew
Thanks for that, clears up a lot.
Its going in a G-Body ElCo so pretty much what you are doing.
Is there an adapter for your yoke at the Diff to hook up the C/V joint to?
Where did you get that D/S made?
I used the Sonnax T35-ALFY-07, but Sonnax offers a few different flange yokes and offer measurements for each. I went your route using a local shop and have a slip yoke style drive shaft, and it's been great
Thanks for that, clears up a lot.
Its going in a G-Body ElCo so pretty much what you are doing.
Is there an adapter for your yoke at the Diff to hook up the C/V joint to?
Where did you get that D/S made?
I deal exclusively with The Driveshaft Shop. Since I have a Ford 9" rear end, they offer a CV pinion yoke. I've had this part on my Cougar for 10 years. I was using a dual CV driveshaft with my T56 as well.
Hey, where specifically do you connect the CAN wires from the turbolamik to the holley terminator. Best I can tell the only CAN lines on my holley are used for the handheld and/or laptop via a splitter. Is this where the lamik hooks up? If so, can it be split three ways so I can run the trans, laptop and handheld at the same time?
I would appreciate specific connector and pin information so I can make this connection. Also any info about setting up communication between the terminator and lamik would be nice. Please link some threads if this has been explained already.
Also, regarding starters. I bought Powermaster PowerMax Plus Starters 9109 from Summit for $173. Looks like no cutting required. Part Number: PWM-9109
Hey, where specifically do you connect the CAN wires from the turbolamik to the holley terminator. Best I can tell the only CAN lines on my holley are used for the handheld and/or laptop via a splitter. Is this where the lamik hooks up? If so, can it be split three ways so I can run the trans, laptop and handheld at the same time?
I would appreciate specific connector and pin information so I can make this connection. Also any info about setting up communication between the terminator and lamik would be nice. Please link some threads if this has been explained already.
Also, regarding starters. I bought Powermaster PowerMax Plus Starters 9109 from Summit for $173. Looks like no cutting required. Part Number: PWM-9109
The TL orange/black goes to pin 20 on J3 and the orange/brown goes to pin 14 on J3. That's the CAN2 . Email me if you have any questions. projectgattago at Gmail dot com