How The Hell Do You Pre Lube An LS1?
Pull the plugs, unplug the coil harnesses, crank it over until it develops oil pressure.
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, Fl.
So...This also introduces a fresh oil supply?... Or does the pressure tank simply circulate the fresh oil that is already in your oil pan & filter? Thanks, Gar
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From: Mefis
Originally Posted by John B
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT DO THIS!!! Disconnect either your oil pressure sending unit or the fitting directly above the oil filter and plug in an oil pressure pre-lube pressure tank. This will pre-prime the motor and ensure oil is all the way through the motor including through the pushrods up to the rockers. You can rent one for $20 or less at any quality motor rebuild place.
I sure wish I would have known about this earlier. I hope that engine is ok.
Or does the pressure tank simply circulate the fresh oil that is already in your oil pan & filter? Thanks, Gar
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From: Simi VAlley,CA
I made a simple fitting to connect at the oil pressure switch and use a manual pump (normally used to service boat lower units) to pump several quarts of oil while rotating the crankshaft every half-quart. When I first fired my newly blueprinted engine I had immediate oil pressure, no lifter rattle (no air) and I'm certain the bearings will last much longer. I guess this sort of thing depends on how much time you want to spend.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT DO THIS!!! Disconnect either your oil pressure sending unit or the fitting directly above the oil filter and plug in an oil pressure pre-lube pressure tank. This will pre-prime the motor and ensure oil is all the way through the motor including through the pushrods up to the rockers. You can rent one for $20 or less at any quality motor rebuild place.
I just thought I'd add I built a pressure tank and tried using the fitting above the oil filter. Pumped a good quart of fluid into the motor at 40psi and It didn't register any oil pressure on the gauge (mechanical gauge). Also had the valve cover off and no oil was coming up through the rockers. I don't think the lower fitting will work.
Opinions vary, but I followed the tech procedure GM publishes in the installation guides for their crate motors. This one is for an LS3, but they all say basically the same thing, i.e. pull the plugs, disable the fuel and crank it over 10 seconds at a time until you register oil pressure. The only thing I would add is to pull the filter and make sure it is full before starting this.
http://paceperformance.com/files/pdf/LS376-515.pdf
You can build some type of preluber, but from what I have seen you will drain the oil passages again anyway when you go to disconnect it prior to starting.
http://paceperformance.com/files/pdf/LS376-515.pdf
You can build some type of preluber, but from what I have seen you will drain the oil passages again anyway when you go to disconnect it prior to starting.
Opinions vary, but I followed the tech procedure GM publishes in the installation guides for their crate motors. This one is for an LS3, but they all say basically the same thing, i.e. pull the plugs, disable the fuel and crank it over 10 seconds at a time until you register oil pressure. The only thing I would add is to pull the filter and make sure it is full before starting this.
http://paceperformance.com/files/pdf/LS376-515.pdf
You can build some type of preluber, but from what I have seen you will drain the oil passages again anyway when you go to disconnect it prior to starting.
http://paceperformance.com/files/pdf/LS376-515.pdf
You can build some type of preluber, but from what I have seen you will drain the oil passages again anyway when you go to disconnect it prior to starting.
What you say may be true of the LS1 type pumps. The older SBC gear pumps wouldn't prime properly unless prelubed. I was just worried the pump wouldn't have enough suction unlubricated to prime the initial start. I did try to fill the pump itself with alot of oil and I have some heavy assembly lube on most of the rotating assy, valves etc. I'm sure it will be fine. I just wanted to post this because I couldn't get the pre-luber to register oil pressure when using the fitting above the oil filter. There is a main galley access point behind the alternator on the block that I'm sure would work.
Opinions vary, but I followed the tech procedure GM publishes in the installation guides for their crate motors. This one is for an LS3, but they all say basically the same thing, i.e. pull the plugs, disable the fuel and crank it over 10 seconds at a time until you register oil pressure. The only thing I would add is to pull the filter and make sure it is full before starting this.
http://paceperformance.com/files/pdf/LS376-515.pdf
You can build some type of preluber, but from what I have seen you will drain the oil passages again anyway when you go to disconnect it prior to starting.
http://paceperformance.com/files/pdf/LS376-515.pdf
You can build some type of preluber, but from what I have seen you will drain the oil passages again anyway when you go to disconnect it prior to starting.
Good name there, "KY". 
I pulled fuses for fuel & spark, packed the oil pump with vaseline, then cranked. Pressure came up, in 3 cranks of 8 seconds each.
This worked faster than not packing the oilpump.
I pulled fuses for fuel & spark, packed the oil pump with vaseline, then cranked. Pressure came up, in 3 cranks of 8 seconds each.
This worked faster than not packing the oilpump.
Cranking the engine without the crank throwing oil on the cyl walls is just asking for problems.
Cranking it for 30 seconds is enough to wipe the walls clean.
Pressure lube it. Start it to get the oil moving thru it like it would if it was running.
I have $45 into my pre oiler
Tim
Cranking it for 30 seconds is enough to wipe the walls clean.
Pressure lube it. Start it to get the oil moving thru it like it would if it was running.
I have $45 into my pre oiler
Tim
$45! Check this shade tree rig out! 
2 liter coke bottle,
1 air fitting
1 barb and some hose & clamps.
All junk I had laying around the shop.
Regulate the shop air to 30-40psi and open the ball valve. I put about a liter of oil in this way. But as said above no oil coming out the valvetrain. I think I'd have to plumb it to the sending unit which is a bastard to get to, or the oil galley plug behind the alternator.
2 liter coke bottle,
1 air fitting
1 barb and some hose & clamps.
All junk I had laying around the shop.
Regulate the shop air to 30-40psi and open the ball valve. I put about a liter of oil in this way. But as said above no oil coming out the valvetrain. I think I'd have to plumb it to the sending unit which is a bastard to get to, or the oil galley plug behind the alternator.
Build your own pre-oiling rig out of an old sbc oil pump and a bucket.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...e_luber_build/
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...e_luber_build/
Cranking the engine without the crank throwing oil on the cyl walls is just asking for problems.
Cranking it for 30 seconds is enough to wipe the walls clean.
Pressure lube it. Start it to get the oil moving thru it like it would if it was running.
I have $45 into my pre oiler
Tim
Cranking it for 30 seconds is enough to wipe the walls clean.
Pressure lube it. Start it to get the oil moving thru it like it would if it was running.
I have $45 into my pre oiler
Tim
Pre Luber I did exactly what that Car Craft article did and it works great. The only thing that I did was go to Home Depot and get a 2 1/2 gal bucket. With the AN fittings, 2 1/2 gal bucket etc. I doubt if I have $50 into the cost. The plus side is that you can use it on other engines and even other makes IF you have the proper fittings. Of course I already had an old small block oil pump. All it takes is a little bit of time. Rich