67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

That isnt too reasurring for me.. I sent him my harness with detailed instructions on friday . His wife was really nice and helpful.. I think they're really backed up. I've never heard any negative feedback towards him or his company, so I'm not worried. be sure to post up when you get it, with pics.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

still no word back!

i kinda figured he's backed up, but ... if you want to keep your business, you gotta tend to your business! only way to keep customers is customer service - the three C's - communicate, communicate, communicate!

you know me, man....i'm like a tourist when it comes to pictures!! you'll see it here first.

on a side note - i fitted up the yolk last night, realized after removing the U-joints that, damnit, the driveshaft for my 3spd used the same yolk as the T56 AND was already within a half inch of the right length. WWWWAAAAHHHH! THIS SUCKS! now i get to pay someone to put it all back together.

getting in a fuel pressure regulator ('99 vette) and bunch of bolts and other misc. parts from gmotors.com some time this week. guess i'll get the harness also. might fire it up before the weekend is over (3 day weekend for me). just gotta get the tank and lines all plumbed out and haven't figured it out yet!!

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

sweeeet! you'd better post video when it runs. Ive been wiring my poor heart out (its midnight and i'm seriously considering going back out there).. I just need my harness back, fuel pump (and its relay) and FPR, and mine'll run, too. I cant wait. I tossed my old 3spd driveshaft as soon as I got my car. The needle bearings on one ujoint had fallen out, and it was leaky. I think you can put u-joints back together using a vise and some sockets. if you can't, Napa will do it for you for like 10 bucks.
olly

oscareltemblo

iTrader: (17)

This is some real god info that I was looking for I'm also working on a 68' c-10 ls1 6.0 4l80e swap thanks.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

The guy I went to sold me one new u-joints and pressed em in for $20. I'm happy.

Ok, well, I got the harness and PCM back in today. No VIN #, I'm afraid . Harness came re-bundled, I think all of the clips are here in the box, some wires had been tied off to the side for things like...A/C, fuel pump, etc. which is convenient. There are Avery mailing labels attached to the sensors and each wire for reference, very convenient.

If the truck will start up after I wire it up (and finish all the fuel stuff - still waiting on GM for the filter and other parts! ARGGHH!) I would totally say it was worth the money! Overall the harness looks clean. I don't know which connector (red/blue) goes into the PCM in what place though

I will post pics later.

68shortstep

iTrader: (1)

the pcm will be labelled on the male part 'red' and 'blue' look at both sides of the pcm connector ports, and you'll see

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

the only markings i saw were on the actual red/blue metal housing parts, didn't see anything on the PCM. will hafta look again tonight - yes, i owe pictures, i know

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

As for the harness, i have pics. You'll find them attached. I'll say this:

got no VIN number.
communication was, well, less than stellar (i.e. didn't exist).
i feel like i got what i paid for.
all of the wires are labelled and whatnot (a few aren't, but ...).
the package came with a Mitchell breakdown wiring schematic for reference.
shipping was prompt. it shipped monday, i got it wednesday, i think?

i think it should get me up and running. next time around i'll probably go Painless or Speartech just so I can get the extra to tuck the PCM under the dash (as with Painless) or get something close-to-stock that's well labelled with extra long lines for fuel pump and other crap (as with Speartech).

i think Wait4Me overall is a good low-budget way to go about doing this for you if you don't want to hack yourself like me. however, i also think he could easily charge another $100 for his services if he would really try and provide better customer support, help his customers decide what they need (have a pre-made option sheet or "popular mods" list for people for crying out loud!) and actually listen to special requests his customers made (all I wanted was my freaking VIN number, now I gotta find some other damned way to get it ... dunno how I'm gonna do it!). the community has a high-budget option (Painless) and a mid-budget option (Speartech), so it's nice to see that there is a low-budget quality option as well (Wait4Me).

i have one other gripe: i got my harness back and one of my rubber pieces for my injector plug is missing. not sure where it went.

so - pics attached. have at!

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

PS - here are pics of my stock Inline6/3spd saginaw driveshaft being a near-perfect fit for my LS1/T56. go figure.

first, a tidbit of info. for anyone who may be driveshaft ignorant, this is a great link to "how to measure for your custom driveshaft" and if you're brave, it talks about how to make your own also:

http://www.automedia.com/Building/a/...es20040301ds/1


now, with my SWB truck (115" WB?), a 56" driveshaft was a good fit, but a 56½"-57" would have been prime at stock ride height. I *am* going to do a 3/5 or a 4/6 drop on the truck eventually (or just bag it totally), so at least another half inch to an inch will be sliding in ... overall, i think this is the perfect length and anything longer would have been too long for me.

pics are attached!

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Got my parts in from Gmotors.com today. This included:

#10220453 (x6) - exhaust manifold studs (i needed new ones for stock manifs)
#10255857 (x6) - exhaust manifold nuts (for studs)
#10423252 (x1) - fuel pipe (fuel rail quick-connect fuel line w/heatshrink)
#12558346 (x1) - EGR blockoff plate
#10299146 (x1) - '99 Vette fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter combo

I am ready to start plumbing fuel lines, get the manifolds on, run most of my wiring, then pop the front clip on. Gotta make a trip to the new Atlanta Summit speed shop this weekend to get a few connectors, some hard line and a bending/flar tool with some clips.

This post was useful in deciding on connector types and numbers when using the stock Vette FPR/filter:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/474606-help-plumbing-fuel-system.html

I also found this resource for anyone who may choose to go with the Aeromotive A1000-6 which is so popular (i want it just b/c of the NPT output for a fuel pressure gauge!):

http://www.stealth316.com/2-fpr_upgrade.htm

it also list all of the connectors and part numbers you would need for that setup, assuming this page is still live when you read this post

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

I've found the best way to keep in touch with jesse and hannah at wait4me is via email. they always get back within 12hrs, even on the weekend.. Very very helpful to me.. sounds like you got a sour deal. bummer. It'll all be water under the bridge when it runs, though.
olly

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

it already is water under the bridge. FTR, email didn't work. that was my main method of communication, actually.

68shortstep

iTrader: (1)

ftr??? what is that?
also is your fuel cell flush wuth the top frame rail? does that cross seal ( i think that is what it is) for your bed (the one that go across the middle of the cell) hit the tank? if not how close does it come?

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

the fuel cell sits just a touch higher than the top of the framerail. it does hit the cross sill, but only because my PO was a stupidass and didn't use bed spacers like they were supposed to. I have new bed spacers and will be installing them (hopefully) this weekend. I get all weekend to work on the truck undisturbed and hope to have it to a near-running state.

FPR = fuel pressure regulator.
FTR = for the record.

oscareltemblo

iTrader: (17)

So you couldn't get it to start?

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

i haven't tried to start it yet.

i got all of the fluids today (oil, tranny, power steering), got some 3/8" line for the gas, installed the adapters to allow fitting my manual oil and temp gauge up, popped in some new spark plugs, did a final mounting of the manifolds after installing new studs in them. after i finish eating, i'm going to pop the dipstick tube back in, then take a first attempt at wiring up everything up using the harness from Wait4Me.

my ultimate goal is to have the front clip of the truck back on by tomorrow night with the radiator, battery tray and everything else mounted up. if i can get that far, all that's left really is clutch MC and fuel delivery (including mounting the tank), which, well, is not much considering how much has already been done.

will try to post pics of the temp and oil adapters from S&P (www.hotrodlane.cc) later. installation was really easy, they sell a good product.

i'm wondering if i should bother with the clutch right this second...i can't drive it anyway because i have no seat and no steering column

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

ok, today was productive.

got oil pressure and water temp gauges wired and plumbed.
filled the tranny w/fluid.
filled engine w/oil.
re-mounted the C/K truck dipstick.
sanded down the firewall where the brake booster is and painted it.
re-mounted the master cylinder for brakes.
rewired the trailer lights.
modified the driver's side bumper support bracket to fit with the power steering setup.
got the throttle cable setup (But not chopped and hooked up to the pedal).
got the manifolds torqued down to spec (intake + exhaust).
got the harness installed, all wired up, very easy but took a long time.
NOTE: noticed skip shift solenoid sensor was deleted, hope this won't cause a problem? i wanted to disable it, but ... i'm a noob i'm really happy with the quality of work on the harness Wait4me did thus far, although some of the wiring (like power ACC and power ON) and the starter stuff seems a tad cheez but 100 times better than i would do!!
got the battery box sanded and painted.
got the front clip back on and somewhat adjusted, but not bolted down yet.
dorked around with the low pressure PS line. gotta figure out how to bend it to make it fit under the inner fender.
updated my gallery to include pictures of the driveshaft install and today's work - including my gauges setup on the pan and head.

probably did some more stuff, but ... can't remember. worked for 12 hours straight, with the exception of going to the store to buy torque wrenches, a haynes manual, threadlocker blue, engine assembly lube and some other crap.

tranny fluid (royal purple) @ 10qts plus 6qts of oil (royal purple) and some STP power steering fluid set me back almost $160. i didn't figure in that expense to the budget. i hadn't realized quality fluid cost so damn much.

here's a pic of the engine in the truck with the front clip on and a pic of the truck from a slight distance with it on - this is a weird sight for me...it's been almost 7 months since i saw it like this last.

custom 68

iTrader: (9)

lookin good shifty. I just got back from a 500 mile trip in mine it has the 5.3 auto and got 18 MPG running 80 MPH on the highway it was a fun trip. It really made the truck drivable on the highway.
good luck
Dave

IOwnCalculus

Any updates? I just want to see how other swaps like this turn out, now that mine's past the one-year-old mark

68shortstep

iTrader: (1)

x2.......BTW IOwnCalculus hows yours doin?