anyone who's put an LT1 in an s-series
09-12-2005, 11:27 AM
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anyone who's put an LT1 in an s-series just wondering what kind of issues you ran into, any major problems? what fan you're using? any trouble getting the motor to fit with f body brackets? what motor mounts did you use(opinion of them)? will the 4.3 radiator keep it cool?
thanx guys
thanx guys
09-12-2005, 11:50 AM
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you might try the v8 section of s10forum.com. There is some good info there on the V8 swaps.
Advance Adapters has a set of mounts for the swap that would be useful. Sanderson headers would be my recommendation for a stock engine. The Vette accessories on the front clear everything much nicer than the f-body stuff, but it can still work. Just have to notch the frame for the A/C.
Advance Adapters has a set of mounts for the swap that would be useful. Sanderson headers would be my recommendation for a stock engine. The Vette accessories on the front clear everything much nicer than the f-body stuff, but it can still work. Just have to notch the frame for the A/C.
09-13-2005, 08:22 AM
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Are you looking to do an LS1 or LT1???
LT1 is a piece of cake....Basically just a SBC with different waterpump and front accessories....You can use the "normal" mounts and headers and such. The trouble is doing all the harness stuff....
LS1 is a whole 'nother story. There are mounts available, for both 2wd and 4wd, but I've only seen headers available for 2wd, and from what I hear are pretty lousy, so you're kinda on your own there. The notes Jones'n provided about notching for AC is correct for the LS1, same with the vette accessories.... The short of it is that the LS1 is a much more involved swap.
'Dreamin'
LT1 is a piece of cake....Basically just a SBC with different waterpump and front accessories....You can use the "normal" mounts and headers and such. The trouble is doing all the harness stuff....
LS1 is a whole 'nother story. There are mounts available, for both 2wd and 4wd, but I've only seen headers available for 2wd, and from what I hear are pretty lousy, so you're kinda on your own there. The notes Jones'n provided about notching for AC is correct for the LS1, same with the vette accessories.... The short of it is that the LS1 is a much more involved swap.
'Dreamin'
09-13-2005, 09:02 AM
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yeah its an LT1, i don't have a harness so i am thinkin of just spending the extra money and getting a painless one.
1 last quick question. what do yall(pure southern word) think about the 4l60e? my motor will be cam'd, new rockers, few bolt ons, and prolly sprayed on. do you think that tranny would hold up? i would like to use the 4l60e since i already own two of them.
thanx for the replies guys.
1 last quick question. what do yall(pure southern word) think about the 4l60e? my motor will be cam'd, new rockers, few bolt ons, and prolly sprayed on. do you think that tranny would hold up? i would like to use the 4l60e since i already own two of them.
thanx for the replies guys.
09-13-2005, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by BlazerINtheWork
1 last quick question. what do yall(pure southern word) think about the 4l60e? my motor will be cam'd, new rockers, few bolt ons, and prolly sprayed on. do you think that tranny would hold up? i would like to use the 4l60e since i already own two of them.
If its 4wd (or more precisely AWD using the BW4472 transfer case out of the Syclone, Typhoon, Astro / Safari, or Bravada) then the trans won't hold up for too long. The Sy & Ty guys break hard parts in built 700R4's (non electronic version of the 60E) so I wouldn't expect too much if that's your plan.
'Dreamin'
09-13-2005, 12:21 PM
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I would make sure that the 4L60E is built to V8 specs. I have known several people who put the trans from their V6 on to a V8 and not too long after, need to get it rebuilt when it starts slipping.
The V8 trans has more clutches and a different Servo (I believe).
As far as the wiring, if you are doing a 94 or newer truck, and want everything to work right, you may want to look at something other than Painless.
The V8 trans has more clutches and a different Servo (I believe).
As far as the wiring, if you are doing a 94 or newer truck, and want everything to work right, you may want to look at something other than Painless.
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09-13-2005, 04:04 PM
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LT1 is cake. It just takes some "massaging". V8s10.org and s-seriesforum.com both have a ton of info. Both work very well as search tools, and if you ask a very basic question, you'll probably be told to search. V8S10.org has alot of info on cooling and fan setups, although, alot of the site is carbeurated, you can still find a ton of mount, exhaust, and cooling info.
My mounts are custom, basically, and extension of the stock mounting surface which was redrilled for the stock 4.3 mounts. No adjustment possible. There are other mounts which utilize 2.8 s10 mounts that allow you to move the motor around some, I wish I had gone that route.
Stock 4.3L radiator will cool the motor "alright". If you want A/C and drive in traffic or in a very hot place, you may have problems. You'll need a "T" connection for your LT1 heads "steam tube" to be spliced into the radiator hose (you'll need this if you use any non-LT1 specific radiator, unless you have another fitting welded to the radiator. Check Jags That Run for this part, and others, but shop around b/c they can be expensive. Also, A/C is more tricky b/c you can't mount the radiator in the "forward" position (inside the core support). Plenty of people have kept A/C, it's just a little tighter. I ran a single core copper/brass radiator for a couple years, but am now switching to an aluminum dual core ("Superior Radiator" sold on ebay), which is specifically made for V8 swaps, and has a filler neck that protrudes out the back so you don't have to cut into the top of the core support. You will need to trim a 1/4in. off the back edge, but it isn't structural.
No problems with a 700r4 here, although it is from a camaro. The rear-end shouldn't be too much of a problem with an auto, it's the 6spd launches that'll eat them up. And these trucks aren't just smoke makers, with some practice, they can leave pretty hard, they just can't be WOT off the line without some work.
Headers are easy to find. However, make sure the primaries are large enough for the LT1 heads - mine aren't
. I have the smaller of the 2 Hedman headers. Pretty much considered the cheapies - both quality and flange thickness, and price. But they get the job done, so there's alot of people running them.
"F-body brackets"? I'll assume you mean accessorie brackets. The A/C is the only issue there. The frame will need to be notched for the compressor. I'm not sure if a 1LE pulley setup will completely solve that problem, b/c my frame was still heated with a torch and "massaged" with a hammer for more clearance.
This link gets passed around like a *****, but Slammed98gmc has some good pics to give you an idea of space for the swap, especially the notch for the A/C.
Another option for wiring isCurrent Performance . I have heard nothing but good things about both the quality and service from them. The price is kinda high, but you will get a complete drop in harness with all wires the correct length, and everything set for an s10. If you have ever heard of "Lee's Hightech Trucks", this is the shop that built all of his swap harnesses. Lee's is someone that I would do ALOT of searching before dealing with (hint hint), but current performance is separate.
My mounts are custom, basically, and extension of the stock mounting surface which was redrilled for the stock 4.3 mounts. No adjustment possible. There are other mounts which utilize 2.8 s10 mounts that allow you to move the motor around some, I wish I had gone that route.
Stock 4.3L radiator will cool the motor "alright". If you want A/C and drive in traffic or in a very hot place, you may have problems. You'll need a "T" connection for your LT1 heads "steam tube" to be spliced into the radiator hose (you'll need this if you use any non-LT1 specific radiator, unless you have another fitting welded to the radiator. Check Jags That Run for this part, and others, but shop around b/c they can be expensive. Also, A/C is more tricky b/c you can't mount the radiator in the "forward" position (inside the core support). Plenty of people have kept A/C, it's just a little tighter. I ran a single core copper/brass radiator for a couple years, but am now switching to an aluminum dual core ("Superior Radiator" sold on ebay), which is specifically made for V8 swaps, and has a filler neck that protrudes out the back so you don't have to cut into the top of the core support. You will need to trim a 1/4in. off the back edge, but it isn't structural.
No problems with a 700r4 here, although it is from a camaro. The rear-end shouldn't be too much of a problem with an auto, it's the 6spd launches that'll eat them up. And these trucks aren't just smoke makers, with some practice, they can leave pretty hard, they just can't be WOT off the line without some work.
Headers are easy to find. However, make sure the primaries are large enough for the LT1 heads - mine aren't
. I have the smaller of the 2 Hedman headers. Pretty much considered the cheapies - both quality and flange thickness, and price. But they get the job done, so there's alot of people running them."F-body brackets"? I'll assume you mean accessorie brackets. The A/C is the only issue there. The frame will need to be notched for the compressor. I'm not sure if a 1LE pulley setup will completely solve that problem, b/c my frame was still heated with a torch and "massaged" with a hammer for more clearance.
This link gets passed around like a *****, but Slammed98gmc has some good pics to give you an idea of space for the swap, especially the notch for the A/C.
Another option for wiring isCurrent Performance . I have heard nothing but good things about both the quality and service from them. The price is kinda high, but you will get a complete drop in harness with all wires the correct length, and everything set for an s10. If you have ever heard of "Lee's Hightech Trucks", this is the shop that built all of his swap harnesses. Lee's is someone that I would do ALOT of searching before dealing with (hint hint), but current performance is separate.
Last edited by chevy42083; 09-13-2005 at 04:17 PM.
09-13-2005, 09:42 PM
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tons of info and nice links, TYVM guys 
i plan to use a ford 8.8 rear end from an explorer, linky
if your asking why, because it will basicly bolt up and i want to get a couple launches in. thats why i am worried about the tranny because i want to run traction bars, and slicks when i'm at the track. i don't want to spend all the money on a 4l60e and have me rip its guts out after 3 passes. i know it will be fine on the street, my 245/40/18 isn't going to grip anything.
i plan to use a ford 8.8 rear end from an explorer, linky
if your asking why, because it will basicly bolt up and i want to get a couple launches in. thats why i am worried about the tranny because i want to run traction bars, and slicks when i'm at the track. i don't want to spend all the money on a 4l60e and have me rip its guts out after 3 passes. i know it will be fine on the street, my 245/40/18 isn't going to grip anything.
09-15-2005, 04:02 PM
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Another option compared to the ford 8.8 is a chevy 8.5. Certain S-10s came with them, so they are literally a direct bolt in. The Chevy 8.5 will work with any s10s stock brakes (either drums or discs from a 98+ blazer), or F-body brakes will also bolt up (LS1s are pretty big 
). It would not require any goofy spaced wheels, or ford bolt pattern.
8.5s generally came in V6 5spd S-series that are mostly 1998+. They are kinda hit and miss - GM was goofy with some that did and didn't get them, but those were the norm. Also, all ZR2 S-series got them, however, the ZR2 rear is a couple inches wider. Which may work to your favor. The ZR2 is actually the exact width needed for f-body and vette wheels to fit. You'd need spacers for the front, but atleast you could run a matching set of wheels that are interchangeable, and not 2 chevy and 2 ford wheels.
The 2wd rears are available both 1 wheel peel and posi, depending on what they came out of. I have a buddy with a base model work truck with 1 wheel peel and 8.5, but most ZQ8 trucks that are V6 5spd should have a posi. If the rear is out of a blazer, it should have discs. All ZR2s had a posi (and I think discs).
These rearends aren't all over the place, so you may need to be patient while searching - but in my opinion, it's well worth it.
). It would not require any goofy spaced wheels, or ford bolt pattern.8.5s generally came in V6 5spd S-series that are mostly 1998+. They are kinda hit and miss - GM was goofy with some that did and didn't get them, but those were the norm. Also, all ZR2 S-series got them, however, the ZR2 rear is a couple inches wider. Which may work to your favor. The ZR2 is actually the exact width needed for f-body and vette wheels to fit. You'd need spacers for the front, but atleast you could run a matching set of wheels that are interchangeable, and not 2 chevy and 2 ford wheels.
The 2wd rears are available both 1 wheel peel and posi, depending on what they came out of. I have a buddy with a base model work truck with 1 wheel peel and 8.5, but most ZQ8 trucks that are V6 5spd should have a posi. If the rear is out of a blazer, it should have discs. All ZR2s had a posi (and I think discs).
These rearends aren't all over the place, so you may need to be patient while searching - but in my opinion, it's well worth it.
09-16-2005, 07:40 AM
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From what I understand, there are actually 3 different width rearends available (7.5 / 7.625" or 8.5", doesn't matter). The 8.5" should be available in 5speed V6 trucks starting in 1995 or 1996 (can't remember which).
1.) 2wd is the narrowest.
2.) Regular 4wd is wider. (haven't seen a hard dimension, but heard they're 4" wider overall). I think the 4wd is what you need to fit high positive offset wheels (ie Camaro and Vette fitments) on the rear. But that won't help the front.
3.) ZR2 4wd is wider still. (heard they're 4" wider than the 4wd)
I'm not 100% on any of the dimensions, but am certain that the parts are different (the parts interchanges that I've seen make you choose which application).
The GM Posi is one of those things that is less than useful. You have to have wheelspin to lock it up, it disengages above 25 mph (if you lift), AND are incredibly weak. Can you say grenade? Much better choice would be a Detroit Tru-trac or Zexel Torsen.
The other problem with the 8.5": Its fairly expensive. The salvage yards seem to want $400 to $600 for them, especially if they've got disk brakes. And then even if its got a POSI its a POS.....
I've personally thought about running the 8.8 myself, but it is a bunch of work too. Redrill axles, narrow, flip, whatever else. But the biggest deciding factor for me is the fact that the 8.8 ratios won't match up with the ratios in the 7.25" front axle in the S10/Blazer (since I'm doing AWD). You'll have to evaluate your situation and decide which one is more economical (since your time probably has some value).
'Dreamin'
1.) 2wd is the narrowest.
2.) Regular 4wd is wider. (haven't seen a hard dimension, but heard they're 4" wider overall). I think the 4wd is what you need to fit high positive offset wheels (ie Camaro and Vette fitments) on the rear. But that won't help the front.
3.) ZR2 4wd is wider still. (heard they're 4" wider than the 4wd)
I'm not 100% on any of the dimensions, but am certain that the parts are different (the parts interchanges that I've seen make you choose which application).
The GM Posi is one of those things that is less than useful. You have to have wheelspin to lock it up, it disengages above 25 mph (if you lift), AND are incredibly weak. Can you say grenade? Much better choice would be a Detroit Tru-trac or Zexel Torsen.
The other problem with the 8.5": Its fairly expensive. The salvage yards seem to want $400 to $600 for them, especially if they've got disk brakes. And then even if its got a POSI its a POS.....
I've personally thought about running the 8.8 myself, but it is a bunch of work too. Redrill axles, narrow, flip, whatever else. But the biggest deciding factor for me is the fact that the 8.8 ratios won't match up with the ratios in the 7.25" front axle in the S10/Blazer (since I'm doing AWD). You'll have to evaluate your situation and decide which one is more economical (since your time probably has some value).
'Dreamin'
09-16-2005, 03:30 PM
#13
The 8.8 is a pretty easy install. I put one in my 94 LT1/T56 S-10. Below is a copy of the post I made on the S-10 forum about the install.
I just got done swapping an 8.8 Explorer rear end into my s-10 and I thought I would let everyone here know how it went.
I picked up the rear end from a local junkyard for $200. It came with 31 spline axle’s, 3.73’s, posi, and disc brakes. It’s 59.5 inches from wheel mount to wheel mount. I have 18 x 10 wheels out back with 7 ¾” back spacing so the off set is almost prefect for me. I had a local guy drill the axles for 4.75 bolt pattern for $60. Spent $30 for the cross over U-joint, and $35 for new U-bolts (They cut the Explorer U-bolts and the stock U-bolts are to small). The brake line on the stock rear end has a rubber line that attaches in the center of the housing and runs over to a bracket on the driver’s side frame. The Explorer rear has the rubber line on the driver’s side. The end of the line is the same and fits right in the stock bracket and use the stock clip to hold it in. But the fitting on the end of the line is one size smaller than the stock one. I took both lines to local auto parts store and after about 10 min of looking through his fittings he found one that adapted the two lines together and it was only $3. I slotted the holes a little and used the stock shock mounts. The holes for the spring perches are only off about a ½”. I put one side in and gave it a slight push and the other side dropped right in.
I still have to hook up the E-brake. A buddy of mine has a stock S-10 rear laying around with disc brake backing plates on it (Mine had drum brakes) and it looks like the cable hook up is the same as the 8.8. So I’m going to go back to the place I bought the rear and see if I can get a set of E-brake cables off an S-10 with disc. I think this will be the easiest way to hook them up. I’m also going to pick up a disc brake proportioning valve from an S-10 with factory disc to get a little more pressure to the rear.
Overall I think this was a fairly easy swap. I sold the stock rear for $50. I figure $20-$30 more to spend for the brake cables and proportioning valve. So it looks like it will cost me about $300 to go from the weak 7.5 with drum brakes to the beefy 8.8 with disc.
I just got done swapping an 8.8 Explorer rear end into my s-10 and I thought I would let everyone here know how it went.
I picked up the rear end from a local junkyard for $200. It came with 31 spline axle’s, 3.73’s, posi, and disc brakes. It’s 59.5 inches from wheel mount to wheel mount. I have 18 x 10 wheels out back with 7 ¾” back spacing so the off set is almost prefect for me. I had a local guy drill the axles for 4.75 bolt pattern for $60. Spent $30 for the cross over U-joint, and $35 for new U-bolts (They cut the Explorer U-bolts and the stock U-bolts are to small). The brake line on the stock rear end has a rubber line that attaches in the center of the housing and runs over to a bracket on the driver’s side frame. The Explorer rear has the rubber line on the driver’s side. The end of the line is the same and fits right in the stock bracket and use the stock clip to hold it in. But the fitting on the end of the line is one size smaller than the stock one. I took both lines to local auto parts store and after about 10 min of looking through his fittings he found one that adapted the two lines together and it was only $3. I slotted the holes a little and used the stock shock mounts. The holes for the spring perches are only off about a ½”. I put one side in and gave it a slight push and the other side dropped right in.
I still have to hook up the E-brake. A buddy of mine has a stock S-10 rear laying around with disc brake backing plates on it (Mine had drum brakes) and it looks like the cable hook up is the same as the 8.8. So I’m going to go back to the place I bought the rear and see if I can get a set of E-brake cables off an S-10 with disc. I think this will be the easiest way to hook them up. I’m also going to pick up a disc brake proportioning valve from an S-10 with factory disc to get a little more pressure to the rear.
Overall I think this was a fairly easy swap. I sold the stock rear for $50. I figure $20-$30 more to spend for the brake cables and proportioning valve. So it looks like it will cost me about $300 to go from the weak 7.5 with drum brakes to the beefy 8.8 with disc.
10-16-2005, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by chevy42083
LT1 is cake. It just takes some "massaging". V8s10.org and s-seriesforum.com both have a ton of info. Both work very well as search tools, and if you ask a very basic question, you'll probably be told to search. V8S10.org has alot of info on cooling and fan setups, although, alot of the site is carbeurated, you can still find a ton of mount, exhaust, and cooling info.
My mounts are custom, basically, and extension of the stock mounting surface which was redrilled for the stock 4.3 mounts. No adjustment possible. There are other mounts which utilize 2.8 s10 mounts that allow you to move the motor around some, I wish I had gone that route.
Stock 4.3L radiator will cool the motor "alright". If you want A/C and drive in traffic or in a very hot place, you may have problems. You'll need a "T" connection for your LT1 heads "steam tube" to be spliced into the radiator hose (you'll need this if you use any non-LT1 specific radiator, unless you have another fitting welded to the radiator. Check Jags That Run for this part, and others, but shop around b/c they can be expensive. Also, A/C is more tricky b/c you can't mount the radiator in the "forward" position (inside the core support). Plenty of people have kept A/C, it's just a little tighter. I ran a single core copper/brass radiator for a couple years, but am now switching to an aluminum dual core ("Superior Radiator" sold on ebay), which is specifically made for V8 swaps, and has a filler neck that protrudes out the back so you don't have to cut into the top of the core support. You will need to trim a 1/4in. off the back edge, but it isn't structural.
No problems with a 700r4 here, although it is from a camaro. The rear-end shouldn't be too much of a problem with an auto, it's the 6spd launches that'll eat them up. And these trucks aren't just smoke makers, with some practice, they can leave pretty hard, they just can't be WOT off the line without some work.
Headers are easy to find. However, make sure the primaries are large enough for the LT1 heads - mine aren't . I have the smaller of the 2 Hedman headers. Pretty much considered the cheapies - both quality and flange thickness, and price. But they get the job done, so there's alot of people running them.
"F-body brackets"? I'll assume you mean accessorie brackets. The A/C is the only issue there. The frame will need to be notched for the compressor. I'm not sure if a 1LE pulley setup will completely solve that problem, b/c my frame was still heated with a torch and "massaged" with a hammer for more clearance.
This link gets passed around like a *****, but Slammed98gmc has some good pics to give you an idea of space for the swap, especially the notch for the A/C.
Another option for wiring isCurrent Performance . I have heard nothing but good things about both the quality and service from them. The price is kinda high, but you will get a complete drop in harness with all wires the correct length, and everything set for an s10. If you have ever heard of "Lee's Hightech Trucks", this is the shop that built all of his swap harnesses. Lee's is someone that I would do ALOT of searching before dealing with (hint hint), but current performance is separate.
My mounts are custom, basically, and extension of the stock mounting surface which was redrilled for the stock 4.3 mounts. No adjustment possible. There are other mounts which utilize 2.8 s10 mounts that allow you to move the motor around some, I wish I had gone that route.
Stock 4.3L radiator will cool the motor "alright". If you want A/C and drive in traffic or in a very hot place, you may have problems. You'll need a "T" connection for your LT1 heads "steam tube" to be spliced into the radiator hose (you'll need this if you use any non-LT1 specific radiator, unless you have another fitting welded to the radiator. Check Jags That Run for this part, and others, but shop around b/c they can be expensive. Also, A/C is more tricky b/c you can't mount the radiator in the "forward" position (inside the core support). Plenty of people have kept A/C, it's just a little tighter. I ran a single core copper/brass radiator for a couple years, but am now switching to an aluminum dual core ("Superior Radiator" sold on ebay), which is specifically made for V8 swaps, and has a filler neck that protrudes out the back so you don't have to cut into the top of the core support. You will need to trim a 1/4in. off the back edge, but it isn't structural.
No problems with a 700r4 here, although it is from a camaro. The rear-end shouldn't be too much of a problem with an auto, it's the 6spd launches that'll eat them up. And these trucks aren't just smoke makers, with some practice, they can leave pretty hard, they just can't be WOT off the line without some work.
Headers are easy to find. However, make sure the primaries are large enough for the LT1 heads - mine aren't
. I have the smaller of the 2 Hedman headers. Pretty much considered the cheapies - both quality and flange thickness, and price. But they get the job done, so there's alot of people running them."F-body brackets"? I'll assume you mean accessorie brackets. The A/C is the only issue there. The frame will need to be notched for the compressor. I'm not sure if a 1LE pulley setup will completely solve that problem, b/c my frame was still heated with a torch and "massaged" with a hammer for more clearance.
This link gets passed around like a *****, but Slammed98gmc has some good pics to give you an idea of space for the swap, especially the notch for the A/C.
Another option for wiring isCurrent Performance . I have heard nothing but good things about both the quality and service from them. The price is kinda high, but you will get a complete drop in harness with all wires the correct length, and everything set for an s10. If you have ever heard of "Lee's Hightech Trucks", this is the shop that built all of his swap harnesses. Lee's is someone that I would do ALOT of searching before dealing with (hint hint), but current performance is separate.
09-13-2006, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JustDreamin
What the heck for?
This thread is from a year ago....
'JustDreamin'
This thread is from a year ago....
'JustDreamin'