Oh if that's the case go for it. I don't think it'll be too complicated the electronics will probably be tougher in this case than the swap.

 

anyone have a harness re-worked? I think that our guy at speartech left the harness set for the truck manifold, so I have to find a way to make it clean up and not look like a mess in the engine bay

 

Doesn't the harness on the truck manifold run over the center? The car stuff runs along side the fuel rails. Was he supposed to split it all up and make it run down the sides? That would be a pain.

 

well, its not so bad, because the part that runs across the manifold is the part that goes to the fuse block, but its a stand alone, so it wont be so bad, but other problems now, they include the header hitting the steering shaft, need washers to lift the driver's side of the engine up because its forcing the oil pan into the k-member, we had to bash the firewall for some clearence on the tranny, but we discovered we cant put the engine AND the tranny in as one

 

Did you remove the radiator support?

 

from the harness or what do you mean?

 

I think he means when you were trying to put the engine and trans in as one, did you remove the radiator support? That would make it easier to put them in together.

 

I have everything completally off the front end, no fenders, fendel wells, or anything

 

will a truck 4l60e work for this an LSx setup? or is there any difference in the truck one and f-body one.

 

Is it because the engine oil pan gets stuck on the k member and the back of the motor or the tranny is stuck against the body? I think I had that problem...I ended up lifting the body off the frame a few inches for clearance. Only like 8 bolts on my blazer holding the body to the frame.

 

Thats what i did...just unbolted the cab and lifted it up by about 6 inches...and the motor n trans slid right in....and yeah i couldnt get the oilpan to clear without the cab up....cause i couldnt get the angle of the dangle right...so spaced it up..and ppof...went right in...pretty easy with no front end on at all.

J-

 

anyone??? is there one that works better than the other?

 

anyone put the trans in separate? how hard was it?

 

My friends S10 doesnt have a LS1 in it but it does have a sbc motor in it with a turbo 400 tranny. He pulled the carpet back and cut some holes in the floorboard/firewall just a little bigger than the socket you are using for the tranny bolts. It makes putting in & taking those bolts out a breeze, just roll the carpet back and two minutes later your done.

 

with a hoist, its easy

on the floor, all you need is the ability to tip and rotate the trans to get it lined up enough to bolt.

put the bottom bolts in first, then lower the tranny to get the top bolts. you will most likely have to take the trans x-member out

 

we have a full size hoist, but only a floor jack to jack the tranny up

 

I've done it a couple times but my LS motor is mounted super low. It wasnt really any harder than pulling the trans behind the original six. No easy task either way. I had to use quite an assortment of extensions and swivels. I think knocked in the body a little around the upper left side (driver side) bolt to make room for the socket. I like that drill a hole in the firewall idea though .

 

@ XtremeS10... Make sure the torque converter is all the way in the hole in the flywheel... Its the trickiest part... double and triple check... i know A LOT of people of fucked there flywheel this way... You'll know its all the way in when you can reach your hand inside the hole where the starter is and spin the torque converter freely... It's weird cuz i hear everyone having to lift the cab... I used the f-body pan and i didn't have to do that... And i did not have to put spacers under the mounts anywhere... I have alot of pics of my swap in my thread (see my sig.)...

The best thing for you to do Xtreme is to lift the cab if your having clearance problems... You probably would have to do it anyway to get to the top bolts.. which are REALLY A BIT*H to get to... you could probably do it with like 4 wobblies and 7 extenstions...

Depends what truck 4l60e your using... if its from the s10 then the bolts don't really line up, on the 2.2l trans there is not a top bolt like the lsx trans has... im not sure what the 4.3l trans looks like... If your talking about a silverado or tahoe trans then yes they will work perfectly, thats what i have for my swap. The only thing is you have to change the computer on the truck trans to the computer from your s10 if you get a harness from jared @ currentperformance.com anyway (by computer i mean the little black box that goes around the shifter stud on the trans..) The other thing you could do is change the bell housing... it unbolts from the trans right behind the torque converter, then you could use the s10 trans and just change the bell housing to one used on an lsx motor...

 

the thing is we knocked the HELL out of the firewall around the trans tunnel, and we have a bolt in the back of the engin where the top bolt is on the tranny, and we can actually reach around the tranny to hit it just fine due to the fire wall being cut and knocked out

 

well thats just the thing, my blazer is a 5 speed right now and i am converting to an automatic. so what would i have to do about that?