'71 Chevelle - LS1/T56 - In progress
#381
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is Aeroquip Socketless hose and is NHRA approved.
SOCKETLESSTM Hose (FBV/FBN)
A high performing, lightweight alternative to stainless steel braided hose. Manufactured by Eaton using our patented AQP inner tube, offering 300º temperature rating and unsurpassed fluid compatibility. Use with Aeroquip's SOCKETLESS fittings---no clamp or wrench needed! Applications include fuel, lube, coolant and air. Available in blue or black.
Thanks for the heads up though.
SOCKETLESSTM Hose (FBV/FBN)
A high performing, lightweight alternative to stainless steel braided hose. Manufactured by Eaton using our patented AQP inner tube, offering 300º temperature rating and unsurpassed fluid compatibility. Use with Aeroquip's SOCKETLESS fittings---no clamp or wrench needed! Applications include fuel, lube, coolant and air. Available in blue or black.
Thanks for the heads up though.
Ben
#385
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well as it usually goes I did not get the car running this weekend. I am very close, but no cigar. Everything is pretty much complete to start the car. I got to the point where I hooked up the battery and my hazards were stuck on. My friend said it's probably because I only had one bulb in. That was late Sunday night and my tuner was done for the night so hopefully I can get things sorted out and it fired this week. Here are some progress pics.
Battery mount I made for the Braille Auto battery. I need to pick up some other bolts, but this weekend was a scramble. I think I got <10 hours of sleep total and I saw 4:30 am Sat night/Sunday morning.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03390.JPG)
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03391.JPG)
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03395.JPG)
I couldn't find anyone to hex crimp battery cable terminals for me, so I just used marine style terminals and regular lugs. I might buy the hex crimp tool, but it's $200 and I only need a couple crimps.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03402.JPG)
The positive terminal is 2- 4ga (starter/alternator) and 1 - 8ga for the Lincoln Mark VIII fan that pulls 40+ amps running and spike to almost 100 at startup. Negative is a 4ga to the block and a 8ga to the chassis.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03419.JPG)
Dash shot:
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03405.JPG)
Dash wiring:
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03406.JPG)
I made a strap to hold the PCM so it can be removed for tuning with a RoadRunner.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03407.JPG)
Fan wiring:
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03424.JPG)
You can see the battery cables and the fuel lines coming out of the frame in this pic.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03423.JPG)
Mounted the fan and Fuel pressure regulator and built the fuel lines. You can also barely see the power steering hose I had made. I'll get some better pics later.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03426.JPG)
Exhaust going together. I needed to dip below the trans crossmember, but wanted it tucked as much as possible. I think it came out pretty good for my first exhaust.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03429.JPG)
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03431.JPG)
Welding the pipes:
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03438.JPG)
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03440.JPG)
Narrowband for the LS1 on the outside. Dual Widebands on the inside.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03442.JPG)
All 3" mandrel bent. X-pipe, dynomax bullets and dumps. I am going to shorten the rear pipes a little and put some hangers on and it should be done.
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03446.JPG)
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03447.JPG)
So here is where she sits now:
![](http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC03449.JPG)
I am going to trace down the electrical system tonight and double check a couple things. Other than that she is very close and might see the road sometime soon.
Battery mount I made for the Braille Auto battery. I need to pick up some other bolts, but this weekend was a scramble. I think I got <10 hours of sleep total and I saw 4:30 am Sat night/Sunday morning.
I couldn't find anyone to hex crimp battery cable terminals for me, so I just used marine style terminals and regular lugs. I might buy the hex crimp tool, but it's $200 and I only need a couple crimps.
The positive terminal is 2- 4ga (starter/alternator) and 1 - 8ga for the Lincoln Mark VIII fan that pulls 40+ amps running and spike to almost 100 at startup. Negative is a 4ga to the block and a 8ga to the chassis.
Dash shot:
Dash wiring:
I made a strap to hold the PCM so it can be removed for tuning with a RoadRunner.
Fan wiring:
You can see the battery cables and the fuel lines coming out of the frame in this pic.
Mounted the fan and Fuel pressure regulator and built the fuel lines. You can also barely see the power steering hose I had made. I'll get some better pics later.
Exhaust going together. I needed to dip below the trans crossmember, but wanted it tucked as much as possible. I think it came out pretty good for my first exhaust.
Welding the pipes:
Narrowband for the LS1 on the outside. Dual Widebands on the inside.
All 3" mandrel bent. X-pipe, dynomax bullets and dumps. I am going to shorten the rear pipes a little and put some hangers on and it should be done.
So here is where she sits now:
I am going to trace down the electrical system tonight and double check a couple things. Other than that she is very close and might see the road sometime soon.
#386
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Edmond, Oklahoma
Posts: 796
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Looks like you are getting very close indeed. That thing is gonna be like a whole new car when you get it going. I like the exhaust that turned out really nice. I am confused as to why you would need to remove the computer for tuning. Can you not just tune it thru the data link obd2 port?
#390
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: CANADA!
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hell yea bro!!! Coming along nicely. Exhaust looks good. I had the same issue, ended up making my own crossmember out of 3x1 HSS, Welded in a piece of pipe so I could run the exhaust through it, Made tucking it MUCH easier.
Stevewix.... Is your Chevelle the red one that 1320 did the photoshoot of?
Stevewix.... Is your Chevelle the red one that 1320 did the photoshoot of?
#392
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I looked over some things tonight. I had a couple user errors after a long weekend and stopped because of electrical problems last night. Turns out my lights were on because the hazard button was pushed in and the fuel pump didn't prime because I forgot to plug in the rear harness. do'h
Filled up the fluids and got the fuel pressure adjusted to 58psi on the gauge. We'll see what happens when my friend comes to flash the PCM.
Filled up the fluids and got the fuel pressure adjusted to 58psi on the gauge. We'll see what happens when my friend comes to flash the PCM.
#393
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: CANADA!
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How did you adjust your fuel pressure without a running engine? I'm almost positive once the injectors open up, your fuel pressure is going to drop to around 40psi. Keep an eye on it for initial start up.
#398
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Congrats for sticking with it bro, I'm about to start the third of these type of builds (I'm 23, lol, I spend money on NOTHING but cars). I have helped a lot of people with these types of things and 90% of people start a simple swap of some sort, something bugs them and they rip the car apart and it never goes back together and they eventually sell the car and parts for 20% of what they originally paid. Read this book cover to cover. I'm sure the wife/fiancee is not all too happy at times with the car either.
What injectors are you using, and how did you come to that decision? I'm trying to figure out LS1 injectors (I'm a mod motor guy...19 lb/hr, 24 lb/hr, 39 lb/hr, 42 lb/hr, 60 lb/hr, etc.) and trying to figure out what injectors support what HP levels, as well as what MAFs and fuel systems go with them. In a mod motor, you decide what kind of power you're going to make and what kind of drivability you want, then you pick your injectors, MAF, and fuel system as a set.
What injectors are you using, and how did you come to that decision? I'm trying to figure out LS1 injectors (I'm a mod motor guy...19 lb/hr, 24 lb/hr, 39 lb/hr, 42 lb/hr, 60 lb/hr, etc.) and trying to figure out what injectors support what HP levels, as well as what MAFs and fuel systems go with them. In a mod motor, you decide what kind of power you're going to make and what kind of drivability you want, then you pick your injectors, MAF, and fuel system as a set.
#399
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Congrats for sticking with it bro, I'm about to start the third of these type of builds (I'm 23, lol, I spend money on NOTHING but cars). I have helped a lot of people with these types of things and 90% of people start a simple swap of some sort, something bugs them and they rip the car apart and it never goes back together and they eventually sell the car and parts for 20% of what they originally paid. Read this book cover to cover. I'm sure the wife/fiancee is not all too happy at times with the car either.
What injectors are you using, and how did you come to that decision? I'm trying to figure out LS1 injectors (I'm a mod motor guy...19 lb/hr, 24 lb/hr, 39 lb/hr, 42 lb/hr, 60 lb/hr, etc.) and trying to figure out what injectors support what HP levels, as well as what MAFs and fuel systems go with them. In a mod motor, you decide what kind of power you're going to make and what kind of drivability you want, then you pick your injectors, MAF, and fuel system as a set.
What injectors are you using, and how did you come to that decision? I'm trying to figure out LS1 injectors (I'm a mod motor guy...19 lb/hr, 24 lb/hr, 39 lb/hr, 42 lb/hr, 60 lb/hr, etc.) and trying to figure out what injectors support what HP levels, as well as what MAFs and fuel systems go with them. In a mod motor, you decide what kind of power you're going to make and what kind of drivability you want, then you pick your injectors, MAF, and fuel system as a set.
#400
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
By any chance, do you know what type of 60 lb/hr they are? For example, if I was looking for a Ford application, I'd be looking for Seimens-Deka style high impedance.
MAF diameter and brand?
Thanks, you've been very helpful. I've wanted to do fuel rails with my swap but was afraid to give up idle/part throttle happiness.
MAF diameter and brand?
Thanks, you've been very helpful. I've wanted to do fuel rails with my swap but was afraid to give up idle/part throttle happiness.